Art & Inspiration brush/spray can paint jobs

...thot I saw a thread about this but can't find it now,...how about some brush/ spray can paint jobs...before & after if possible.
...here's my 55 pickup before and after it's $11.00 paint job,..$8.00 quart of Walmart house paint and $3.00 brush, I distress'd it a bit...not for everyone, but good enuf for me....this was just regular flat latex house paint and a $3.00 general purpose brush. I think it looks much better than how it looked when I started putting this truck together.

 

Jake's Tub comes to mind.

 

On the up side......you can park anywhere you want.

 

Jake at one of his best moments ! This was way before the trend of hanging things from the rear or this would have to large brass balls hanging from the rear ! This is the definition of true Hot Rod fun in the simplest form

 

My $22 paint job.
My 77 year old buddy slid this A into the ditch backwards and ended up on its top. I fixed it for him and suggested a brushed paint job to keep costs down. He was totally cool with it.
It was $10 Rustoleum and a $12 brush.
Normally my paint jobs are $$$$, but, this one was fun and practical.

Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My truck has a driveway rattle can paint job.

Before:


After:

 

Is that Krylon True Blue?

 

Me too. Brushed rustoleum.
Playing around with adding some flames!

 

Haha, it's Krylon True Blue as a base coat underneath Krylon Shimmer metallic Jazz Blue, coated with 2K rattle can clear. Here's a better view of the color:

 

Id rather brush one than rattle can.

The regulations dealing with rattle can paint and airborne contaminants have forced manufacturers to remove so much its nothing but a can of tinted piss.

If you want to rattle can, its worth the trouble to have a paint supplier load cans for you, usually enamel, usually the fleet line of a real industrial / automotive paint company. Stay away from the home improvement store versions.

With a brush job, I know what the paint actually is and can add hardener. Rustoleum in quarts with enamel hardener is tough stuff and will buff out, takes a long time to cure.

Lets see some pics

 

If your going to rattle can use a preval sprayer instead.You can use better paint,and add hardener.

 

My coupester just brush painted (no polish) with enamel paint from Craftmasters Paint in the Uk.
This paint really flows nice and y
You don't see brush strokes when dry.

 

Japan drier helps oil paints flow well with a quality brush. Real coachwork skills. You can lay down an amazing trad paint job down that way.

 

I get my custom color from the paint shop that I go to in Riverside.
At $25 a can I have to be careful with it.
They load the rattle can with
my custom color, Prismatic Flame Red.
Worth every cent.

Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My spray bomb job on a slightly OT car I did before my A.
Chappy

2012-01-11_13-13-18_294 by Chappy444 posted Jul 6, 2018 at 7:56 AM

2012-01-02_15-49-30_833 by Chappy444 posted Jul 6, 2018 at 7:56 AM

 

The stude after 22 cans of valspar red and black satin. No body work, no sanding, just wiped it down with lacquer thinner. Couldn't get the stuff off when I finally did the body work and painted it black later. I was amazed how heavy you could lay that rattle can paint on and it not run. I would definitely use it again for a quickey paint job.

 

‘55 Pontiac, rattle can white upper, ‘52 Buick, rattle can roof and red body panels, ‘46 Chevy, satin black rattle can, compounded and waxed. The ‘46 looks nearly like an original lacquer job.

 

Here's the rattle can "flat black" paint job on a '50 Dodge as I bought it. So horrible, even a "r@t rodder" wouldn't have liked it. A compressor and spray rig is a good investment with lots of other uses. Eventually I sprayed the Dodge with primer before trading it for another car...

 

My Chevy used to be red and black lacquer. I sanded it all off, rolled on 2 coats of Rustoluem rusty red primer and 2 coats of satin hunter green followed up with one coat of green with an expensive brush. The fenders were brushed with Rustoleum satin black. I used Penetrol with every coat so it flowed out nice, it still has SOME brush lines but I'm VERY happy with it. Less cleaning, more driving and it still looks presentable.

 

VERY presentable I'd say. Good job!

 

garage rattle can paint job... Roof fake bare metal touch with spray cans.

Backyard Paint job

 

THANKS,,,,My best friend is a paint/ body guy and he was very very very upset that I was not spraying "SHINEY" paint. We went round and round but when he saw how it turned out he actually conceded that he liked it. Mitch

 

My first vehicle was a 1947 International panel truck I bought from my uncle before I could even legally drive. I saw it sitting behind his barn, and asked about it. He ended up selling it to me for $25 in 1964. He had painted it with enamel brushed on in a dark blue, and it had sat outside all the time. After I got it running, I borrowed a buffer and bought some cutting compound and buffed all the oxidation off it. When I got done what few brush strokes were on it were almost gone, and it looked gorgeous. I rattled can painted the fenders and running boards gloss black, and the panel was eye catching! Everyone who saw it thought it was a gorgeous paint job.

 

Just adding something here..... Going back to when I was college, I remember reading an article in science class regarding a spray can paint job done as multiple segments, and it was by a prominent custom shop. About the Fall of 68 or 69, and possibly hot rod or car craft magazine? They had ordered all the spray cans from the manufacturer in the batch number, including their primers and clear. Probably lacquer.
Body work, primers and paints, wet sanding, and clear coats. If someone can locate this article, it might be a great reference to post here.

 

Back in the late 50's I painted a Model A with a brush and Rust-o-Leum. Also used an Electroluxe vacuum cleaner to spray lacquer primer. Both in the driveway.
Paul in CT

 

Brush painting a car may be just the ticket in some cases..traditional, inexpensive, and practical (no paint booth, no neighbor complaints, HOA'S etc.).
To get a quality type of result, there is a lot of work (cutting and buffing) involved after the paint has been applied to the surface, which would be the case in either applied top coat, knocking down/flattening orange peel, or brush strokes.
I've never done it, but I "get it".

 

I am over in Mentone,,, what shop do you use???

 

So what style/type, etc of brush gets the best results? Or does the type of primer and paint come into play?

 

This also done with Craftsmaster using Purdy brushes. Technically, it's Tekaloid and the brush marks drop out as it dries. If you leave it long enough you can buff it but it dries very glossy.

Preparation is important and you won't get a finish like this just slapping it on. If only I had a dust free booth....

Sent from my moto g(8) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Here's the 32 hood top I did up for my 31 A roadster. I rattle can sprayed it with Rustoelum black and it sort of kinda matched what I already had on the body.