I have used the Hot heads stainless plugs in 2 392's with no problems. I gave a set to a well known builder to use when he was doing my current motor a few years back and he declined, insisting he preferred the originals, and used the stock ones. Later, when I had it on the stand for break-in, one popped and I replaced them all. I was not too happy with the builder, but still thankful it happened while it was easy to replace them.
Dave...That is one bad-ass Willys. The mechanical ones that I bought from HH look like it would be impossible for them to come out on their own. I did talk to Bob before I bought them. My opinion, you can't go wrong with them. Russ, your builder is like lots of guys here that have never had a problem with the stock ones. Me, when I can improve on something the factory did, chances are I will, and these are an improvement. I didn't want to be a few hundred miles down the road and have any problems.
I talked to Bob at HH today and he said why do you think I dont sell the factory type freeze plugs? They are junk, they all pop out or leak at some point. He told me with a blown motor we need the stainless o-ring plugs with the flat strap that goes in the block. He said he uses them in all his motors and has never had a problem with them. Racers should think about this as I would hate to amagine what could happen with slicks and a plug popping out going down track. I will tell my engine builder to help save others in the future not to go thru what I am. I built my car as a street legal race car and its a strong 9 sec. car and the good freeze plugs are cheap insurance. I will post again after I test the new plugs and know the problem is fixed.........or not.
Just to add to the mix, when I built the '54 331 in my dirt car (my avatar), we used stock frost plugs on it. After the center one on the driver's side (sound familiar) blew for the second time, I replaced with one that had a mechanical attachment. I thought there was something wrong with the hole in the block (even though I checked it carefully and fully cleaned it), but after this thread, I'm not so sure.
I just replaced my oft-popping our center freeze plug with a Hot Heads bolt-expanding brass/copper one. Have driven it a couple hours and so far, good luck. May be the answer. And yes, 'high performance' water pumps out more volume/pressure into the block and with the restriction of the thermostat ( DO NOT run without it) you can build enuf pressure to overpower the crappy factory plugs. Here is the stainless steel industrial 4" pump I run on my hemi. I started with the factor finned pump impeller but it put out WAY too much pressure, thus the blown plug. I have since adapted a stock type 4-paddle impeller that is not very efficient greatly reducing pump pressure. My advice; always use a good stock water pump. 99.9999999% 0f cooling problems are on the air side not on the water side.
Resurrecting an old(but good) thread..... Hs anyone successfully replaced their core plugs with the motor still in the original car? (1956 NY T&C wagon/Powerflite) Can I reach them & get my hammer in there too? TIA, Tritone
Studebakers are the same way and need at least some of the lip still intact (ask me how I know ). A engine builder friend bores out the hole to fit a standard cup type plug.
Anyone have a NAPA PN for 1958 354 Chrysler Hemi freeze plugs? Filled mine with water to fire it up, but two of 'em leak.
Hello Gary, try to reach you per email and phone but no response. Can you call me? Fred Hundersmarck 1-306-648-7559
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