So this is on my 57 Chevy 150. Previous owner installed cragars WITH M12 LUG NUTS. Wheel FELL OFF when I put it in park after ripping up and down the road. Should’ve checked it I guess but here we are. Anyway, the cragars are the newer style with conical seats. I’ve got original 57 style open ended lug nuts holding them on now, but it doesn’t seem right. If you look at the pictures I’ve got plenty of thread engagement, and the wheel seat is making full contact on the nut. Also you can see it’s definitely a conical seat style wheel. I don’t know. Maybe I’m just being extra cautious after the wheels literally fell off lol. That being said I kind of like the look of the open ended nuts. Gives off a function over form kind of look. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Methinks you need a nut with a shank AND a conical seat. (Figure it out before you kill somebody.) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-27802-4 .
Those are 100% the wrong lug nuts. There are narrow and wide taper lugs . There are also shouldered lug nuts with a tapered seat. You need to go to a wheel and tire store with a wheel and lug nut and they will get you sorted out. also , maybe it’s your pic but I don’t like the fact that the stud is only a thread or two proud of the lug nut, should have a few more threads sticking out .
They have one thing right, those are absolutely the wrong nuts for those wheels. You may need something like this What is an ET style lug nut? (summitracing.com) More here. Coyote Premium Wheel Accessories Lug Nuts (coyoteaccessories.com) Note that they say that those Crager wheels have to have the Extended Thread) Conical Seat Lug Nuts Scroll down the page. I'm going to assume that the guy you got it from used M12 nuts on the 7/16 SAE studs and didn't change studs.
Previous owner 100% used m12-1.5 open ended acorn lug nuts on a 7/16-20 stud. I was under the impression that ET style nuts were essentially a bandaid for if you didn’t have enough thread engagement for aluminum rims and didn’t want to change studs. Summits page backs that up. I just sent an email to cragar with my part numbers and info so hopefully they’ll get back to me before long with a recommendation. I always thought if you have a 7/16 stud you want +7/16 of thread which I have 9/16. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It looks right to me.... Measure the hole in the wheel. If it's smaller than 11/16", then there is no way a shank type nut will fit. And the wheels that use shank nuts do not have any taper, at all. btw the rule for NHRA about thread engagement is that the stud must have at least as much thread engagement, as the diameter of the stud. So you need 7/16" of thread engagement, which you have. Extra threads sticking out past the nut don't do a damn thing to hold the wheel on. If you put acorn nuts on it, it will look much better, of course.
True, but if they work loose, as per OP original issue, it may give you a little more time to stop safely (you have longer to feel the wobble), before the wheels really do fall off..... Over here, every bolt on a modified vehicle has to have two threads showing. Manufacturers vehicles - doesn’t seem to matter. - different rules !
Kind of looks like it in the pictures but in person you can tell it’s not. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Im betting you need some sort of shanked nut. Also, if they had metric nuts on them, do you really trust the integrity of the threads on your studs? Id be replacing them if they were mine
Those metric lug nuts will thread on, but under pressure will strip the threads. And once they do, the stud is ruined. Those lug nuts are for something like an S10.
When I was young the NHRA techs required that the threads stuck out past the end of the lug nut at least 1.75 threads, closed end nuts would land you in the viewing stands. Most structural engineers design or specify if you prefer that the threads stick out past the nut. Makes visual inspection easier. I am leaning toward big studs and flat nuts on the next one that I build for myself with mag type wheels. 11/16 studs and flat nuts. The upside is that it looks like a race car the down side is that it limits you to that style of wheel.
100% is a cragar S/S. Idk why it’s not common knowledge, but cragar makes the S/S in a “direct fit” model with 60* taper lug nuts. I think they call them the S/S 60C or something like that. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yeah there's a set on a Ford in my shop. I'm saying that the metric nuts will screw up your studs. But it sounds like you got her figured out. Go with it
Took a while but yeah haha. Idk how the old fellas did this without the internet lol. Lots of talking to the REAL old fellas I guess. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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