Post photo notes. 16 G is thick to be hammering around but it did allow for a smooth bend and not many dings for as many times as I hit it with the heaviest hammer I had handy. keep in mind that you are trying to draw/ stretch the metal around then bend and it’ll go pretty well. I think this took me ten minutes with a break or two. the things I would change. 1: cut it out with something other than a jig saw. It hated it and it’s to thick for tin snips 2: make the skirt/ flange longer/taller. My flange is shorter than the depth of the buck and when I was hammering tucks flat it dig into the wood. It’s gonna be some effort to get this apart. Some over lap would have prevented the edge digging it and I think it would have helped get it off the buck. 3: I really think you could drill some holes in the buck and put threaded inserts in them and then to remove the metal out some bolts in and push the metal off with them. I mean you’d still need to work it but I’d think it would be helpful. Oh! 4: try to work the whole thing at the same time. I worked about 1/3 or 1/4 at a time and that flare/point where you transition from metal that’s tipping over to straight was very strong and I really had to hit it hard. Surprisingly hard actually. Plan right now is to mark some areas, bolt the half’s back together and clamp it. Work those 3 or so spots. Then remove it and clean it up with a hammer and dolly before trimming it down. Overall making the buck has taken about 20 times the time compared to the metal work. Of course I took one of the slower routes to get there but still. Very Manageable if you like metal shaping or at the very least hitting things with a hammer.
Thanks @Tman not done yet but I think for the time/effort I have to work with it’s turning out pretty ok
I’m sure I could get it now that I’m aware of it. And I’m sure I’ll come up with some reason to need it down the road so I’ll keep you posted
If I could make a suggestion. Go all the way around about 2" apart with you strikes until it makes a pie crust sort of shape. The go in between those, then finish. Going the full 90 degrees actually seems to make it harder to bend over. I made a hammer forming hammer out of an old slag chipper with a bit of a bend and nice smooth corners. It makes it easier.
Good luck. Most metal shops I have asked for it have no clue what it is. Thats really good for 16g dude. That shit doesn't like to move like 18! Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@flatout51 good to know. It it’s pretty stiff but it’s not giving much of any trouble. I’ve got plenty of pent up “energy “ to hammer with. Haha Made some notes and back in the clamps it goes. I seriously have maybe ten minutes of hammering into it at this point. I just pulled the top off to get a better look at what was going on. I like with the thicker metal I can file the edge and just be done with it and not worry about it being a knife edge or needing rolled
Took some effort to get the buck out of the metal but it wasn’t that big of deal. messed the flange up a minimal amount prying it out. It was very in there. Not sure how to build one they wouldn’t be hard to get out. anyhow I’ll hammer and dolly it now and then trim it down. Thinking about drilling some small holes for retaining screws/bolts for a copper expanded metal/ wire mesh to go around the filter. Maybe a rivet? either way progress being made in tiny increments. I’d saved my self a bunch of work if the heavy hammer I used had more crown to the face. Most of what I’m fine tuning out are marks from the edge of the hammer . Most of the flange will get trimmed off so not a big deal, but ya know you always want it to be a little nicer. On a trans note while I gather bits of pieces to get things moving I made a little mock up shift knob. Felt like I was on borrowed time until the shifter poked me and didn’t want to tape up my nice knob I had made. While replacing a 50 year old bathroom faucet I had an idea. A drill and tap later I’ve got a plastic gem of a shift knob that I’m not worried about
Two steps forward and hopefully only one step back. That’s how it goes right? got my bends yesterday and looks like it’s going to package really slick. ran into some issues mocking up the lower lid that I need to re think. But came up with possibly a cleaner way to mount the brackets etc. so, you know. Par for the course
Good progress today. So, once I locked things up two things were apparent. 1 the top is 8.75 and the bottom I hammered out is 9.75. Glad I fit it up before smoothing it and trimming it down I guess. 2 the larger size doesn’t clear the hood side. so with correct measurements in hand I score the internet until I found this filter I didn’t want to make a housing they I couldn’t easily find a filter for. I know k&n makes all the weird sizes but I don’t want a k&n filter even if they didn’t cost so much. any how measurements in had I took a tape measure to the shop and found this yes the very 53’ Ford oil bath I started with is roughly 8” and change. Zipped the top off with a cut off wheel so fast I think it had to be fate. every hot rodders favorite dish soap -dawn- and the garage scrub brush and garden hose we have this!
So now a slightly cone shaped filter sourced- read reviews under the wix and Napa numbers to make sure it wasn’t some weird industrial Air filter that would choke the engine. Looks like it fits some mopar factory? and a lower lid that will work I set To cutting up the bends I was going to use a hose clamp to get a square line to scribe but when I could t find one handy at the right size I grabbed this, what I assume Is a broken window or door spring from a 40’s ford worked perfect onto my fancy outdoor fab table
Everything’s out of square because it’s a wobbly mock up but I’ve got half of it marked to tack Together and the second half won’t be far off. the plan is to plant a few tacks on it, fit it again as one piece and then weld it all solid. I need to finalize some bracket ideas after I do that and get a filter to get everything 100% where it’s going to be I can find some new rubber for the carb “clamp” drill a bigger hole in the lower lid and after some quick primer move onto the next project. with the 53’ lid in place of the lid I made I think it’s really going to look like that’s just what’s supposed to be there. Happy with it this far
Wix 42011 is the correct filter for '60 through at least '78 1bbl slant-6s - this is per "SlantSixDan" on the Slant Six Forum. That guy really knows his stuff, so I have no reason to doubt him. I don't think you would ever have an issue not being able to find those filters.
Awesome! I really wanted an easy to find filter. The only place I can find the oval filter for my 46’ is speedway. I can have them send me one faster than I can get to the store but still. thanks @rjgideon for the info
Tim I just saw this on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/air-intake...856029?hash=item3408052bdd:g:WyEAAOSwlV9WS5KG
Progress is being made, just waiting til further along to post it all together. my welding buddy is out of town at a power plant shut down for a week or two so I’ve been fitting and cutting stuff. Should make for some Quick turn around when he can get back to town and mess with it
Alright gotta clear out some photos before I lose them. I’m building some rear license plate mounts/straps/clamps. make a jig and after trying to muscle it added some heat. Trying to dial it in now forcing it into place and heating it until it relaxes more or less. probably at least an hour into this one so far so the second should take me all of 15 minutes. I tend to tread lightly on the first take, by the second I know how much it’s going to take and I go straight for it. I think you get the jist right?
Scribed some match up reference points and let all the clamps off and not only did it not move but the pipe was hard to spin! Success. Now I need to drill the hole to clamp the end and chop the other end off so I can make it into the second one. Then I’ll mock it up some before drilling the plate mounting holes. I think I’m going to throw a little tack on the back side just for piece of mine that it would Vibrate out of position on the spreader bar. It won’t take much and would be easy to remove if I wanted to change it around. I feel better with that then trying to shim the tightness and create more places for moisture to hide. It is pretty tight though so it’s probably just for my piece of mind
Tiny bit of misalignment on the end there but I’m going to file the corners and make it look nicer anyhow so no big deal. Almost nearly impossible to see once it’s on the car. took this photo to show the marks I had made before bending. I had loosely figured out how much each one was going to take to make but didn’t want to cut it and wish I hadn’t. That’s 9 and 10 inches from the end so I’ll mock up the plate and cut it a little long then take what I cut off and make the second. I put the 90* bend at 1.25 inches I believe. I marked it but I’m pretty sure it got burnt off. If I have a fair amount of strap left after the two are made I’ve got some ideas for them
Had some time before work but couldn’t be noisy so I tried making the second one with heat and my hands instead of a hammer. went MUCH faster but I’ve got some misalignment and I need to put the 90* in with a hammer later. would have been done if I would have just hammered the 90* first but why take the fast route right stuck it I. The vice trying to pinpoint some alignment issues. Thought some heat in a vice might bring it to spec but it’s gonna need a hammer. No biggie I got one.
Almost there. Found the spot that had the twist in it and pushed it back into alignment the best it’s going to be in the vice and then heated it real fuckin hot. That’s been working so far. once it’s in alignment more or less I’ll fine tune the 90* and work it over the round pipe a little more to make sure it’s grabbing the best it can before I drill the threw holes and move to the next steps
The Jalopy Journal
