im running a stock 235 in my 41 sd coupe . its got a set of stainless chinese headers on it . with no choke it starts right up on very cool days/nights . starts good when hot as well . runs a little ruff at higher rpms . i think i put a half ass rebuild on the carb when i installed it , and im sure it could use a update , but i was wondering if it might run better with some heat under it . or is the heat just for cold starts ? also is anyone making new carbs for 235s or should i plan on a upgrade . im trying to keep it simple as possible , but i would like to drive it reliably . oh and 20 mpg would be nice to . also , i have a late 60 /early 70 3spd with syncros on all 3 gears and a nova rear that i think has 3.00 something gears for my next project .am i corect thinking the trans will bolt up to the stock bell ? im running the flywheel and clutch from the 62 p/u i stole the mtr from ! !thnx ,bill
I had a 235 in a 55 Chev that someone put Clifford tube headers on along with the stock intake.The intake was non heated because of it,and it ran fine.I had the car for years,and drove it everywhere from San Francisco to Lake Tahoe in the winter.
I dont know if you mean a stock 235 or if you mean the stock engine in your 41. They came with 216's and are often mistaken for 235s. If its original, it is a 216 and the later trans wont bolt up to that stock 216 bell housing. You need a later one (47-54 half ton, 55-62 passenger work well). You are going to get a TON of opinions on manifold heat. Im in the cam that likes heat to the intake - you want cold carbs and hot intake for optimal fuel atomization. Regarding carbs, if you are talking single carb most will work. You are probably going to rebuild what you find, I dont know of anyone making new carbs except the 2 barrels Tom Langdon sells, but that has adapter issues too (lose some of the simplicity you are looking for) If you are talking multiple carbs you are going to get a lot of opinions there too. For multiples I like 216 (W-1s mostly) on a 235. I have never been able to get Rochesters to work very well. Strombergs are arguably the best carbs. On the rear gears, that is the big problem with older inlines - they are strangled to death with the rear gearing. They really need an overdrive with a 3.7-3.9 rear. Without OD its a struggle between mileage and being a dog off the line. I hope this helps and is what you are looking for.
the mtr. is a stock 235 from a 62 chevy p/u ! bolted to the stock 41 216 i6 bell housing and trans. . so the trans bolt pattern on the bell changed between 41 and 1970 . thought they stayed the sme and allthat might be different was the splines on the input shaft
Hi. Tom Langdon offers a couple of heat plates for the stock intake manifold as well as a thick thermostat housing spacer with water outlet fitting to heat your stock manifold. He also offers a carb base adapter to mount the 2 bbl Weber carbs he sells. My avatar photo here shows my 257 with the Clifford water heated intake and two of the 2 bbl Webber carbs. If you use that thick water heated Clifford intake in either 1 or 2 carb models you have to also use their shorty headers to clear the manifolds. www.langdonsstovebolt.com Jimmie
Here is the link to the heat plates that ol-nobull was mentioning. Intake Heat - Water Related (langdonsstovebolt.com)
Heat the intake. Once you die on the road from vapor lock even in the hot weather, you will decide it is the right way to go. Once I did it on my 54 235, it ran better. When I did the HEI from Langdon, it ran even better than that. Don't you think there was a reason it was done in the first place?
yes ,i thought there might be a reason they designed it that way! jive just been at stovebolt doing some reading .seems they have a hard time making 2 carbs work on 235s .looks like you figured out how to do it jimmie ! so whats the final thoughts on bolting the late model 3 spd to the 41 bell housing . ? im really tired of the popuddles under the trans and rear . and i would like to cruze at 70 mph !
You'll need a '47 up truck bellhousing. You're in for some clutch linkage & fork location fun ... floor shift conversion or '49 -'54 column linkage required as well.
On stovebolt, there is a strong and loud bias by a few against dual carbs. They make a solid case. To much carbs and syncing them are mentioned. Look for user carbking to give a balanced view. I like the langdon dual setup mostly for the eye candy, but felt it would take care of rich lean cylinders and like the progressive nature of the dual 2 barrels that langdon promotes. As an alternative, if you are looking for gas mileage, this article about EFI maybe of interest Btw, I currently have the bendix single barrel on stock manifold with Fenton headers. No heat and no problems on my 54 3100. When I install the duals, I will use water heat. https://www.rodauthority.com/news/p...ng-our-fuel-budget-under-control-with-fitech/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
well that really sucks .i guess thats why i dont get paid to think , cause i thought all i had to do was fab up shifter arms and swap rear end . so how do people do the t-5 swap if it dosnt fit the b.h.
That era Truck bell housing, bolt up with a little work Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What you do is get an adapter that allows the T-5 to bolt up on the bell housing. Two one barrel carbs are fine. Carters are the better carb. Some will say use the Rochester. If you find a vintage dual intake for your engine, it's a good bet the carbs will be the smaller footprint from the 216 engines. You will not have any trouble with two one barrels. They are not hard to adjust the air fuel mixture. Syncing them is even easier. Just use your ear and you can adjust the idle so each carb is giving you the same pitch as the air is rushing in the carb. If you're going to run dual exhaust, listen for the constant put put out the pipes when adjusting the air fuel. If you have a skip, adjust until the put put is steady and you're there. These are not hard to do and there is no need to make it so.
You can make the newer carbs fit in; not mine; but what I am going to do Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
https://www.hotrodworks.com/product/1940-1954-chevrolet-t5-transmission-adapter/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
red thefi atrticle . not to sure about the efi ,but im up for the clifford manifold for sure ! i really want to keep the 3 on the tree so o guess there has to be a way . or ill have to keep the stock trans..
3 on the tree - may not be an anti-theft device but certainly an anti joy riding device for the young ones Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
We’re twins! Almost. I’m running a ‘61 model 235 with headers, backed with the original transmission and rear end. Had to modify the shift levers to clear the headers. I’ve only had it driven around the neighborhood and don’t know if I will have heat problems, but I intend to install the water coolant set up for the manifold. Vapor lock isn’t pleasant!
well i think the vapor lock is gone .knock on wood .gave up on the manual fuel pump and just a cheap in line electric seems to work grt.. im not a fan of electric pumps , but the vapor lock gets real old REAL fast. ive got got stainless headers on it . and i think they are adding to the under hood temps. picked uo a p/u bell housing . same trans bolt pattern as my 70 nova 3 spd. . so ive got a project for this fall/winter . cars grt as is around town , but wrapped pretty tight at 60/65 .so i think the 3.08 rear will be nice . the mtr. seems like it has plenty of balls for the taller gears . we,ll see . starting to be what ive been envisioning ! the front bumper looks kin da grandpaish .but it was in good shape so i had it plated with the rear . its kinda growing on me now . defianetly looks better off though !
If you want to cruise at 70 you are already half way there by having the later model engine with full pressure lubrication, insert bearings and aluminum pistons. The rest of the formula is to swap rear axle gears for a 3.55:1 set from a 1951 - 54 Powerglide model. Or you can buy new gears from stovebolt and other vintage Chev parts vendors. Nothing wrong with your present trans and torque tube drive, the newer 3 speed trans has exactly the same 1:1 top gear. While you have it apart it sounds like you could use some new grease seals.
Your work looks great and I’m hoping you are enjoying it. This may sound odd but how is your mileage since you were wanting 20? I drove these cars and engines in the 50-70’s and that was never attained or even close to it. Looks great.
it s a blast to drive .but the milage is so bad i dont even attempt to check it . gas is $4.50 a gallon here in the great norcal .higher than the highest in the nation s.f .according to the news the other day .and i find myself driving to town several times a day just to drive . my old dodge wayfarer with 230 ci flathead and fluid drive does get 20 mpg since i put2.56 8 inch rear yrs ago . but its a real slug . i would go with the 3.55s for simplicity but i think id rather be a little higher . anyone smart enough to figure rpm s at 70 mph with 3.55 s . i think my tires are g78 -15 about the same height as the stock 16s . thats the other motivation . i would really like some lower tires
thats on my to do list for sure . the mtr runs grt as is but starts right up even on very cold mornings and no working choke at all . so must be pretty rich .seems like people are all over the place as how important it is . so after i do it i will know for sure what it does on my mtr . might try to get to it today . but if it aint broke its easy to put it off !!
well i put it of !but did inst all my pharaohs plaque , good day ! where where you in 62. think i was trying to break the diaper habit !!
I cast a new manifold for mine. Dual plane 390 4bbl, equal length runners, had to separate the Siamese ports in the head to make it work. Had a chamber under the carb for hot water heating.
Oops, you are right! That's a 230 in my '36 Pontiac, not the235 in my '53 Chevy pickup! My Partsheimers is getting worse. I used a Clifford intake, Fenton exhaust manifolds on my 235 w/exhaust X-over manifold heat. The 230 ran great, lots of torque, would climb a rope.
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