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Projects I think I can fix that!

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Doug Hines, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Well I finally got some Isky adjustable lifters installed in the blue engine to correct the the lifter noise. I had a couple of exhaust valves with .030 lash making quite a racket. I wanted to share some things about installing adjustable lifters in a motor that is not getting a total rebuild. The following are my opinions from my one experience. 1st, don't bother buying those worthless Johnson style lifter wrenches. I bought a set and let me assure you there is not one picture on the entire internet of how to install and use those things. 2nd, instead use the money to buy an in-lb torque wrench. The Isky F8502 that I used have adjustment bolts that are very very tight. Far to tight to turn the adjustment bolt while installed in the engine. I put each one in a vice and ran the bolts in and out until the break out torque was just under 50 in-lbs. Now they can be adjusted with a tool that I made, while in the engine. I did not come up with the tool idea. I read about it on this forum. You take a welding rod or a piece of heavy wire and bend it into a V shape about 4-5 inches long. Then on the open ends of the V, bend a tang down on each end that will fit into (2) of the (4) holes on top of the lifter to hold it in place. Also take a 7/16" wrench and grind it to make it a little thinner so it will fit into the space on top of the V wire tool when installed. Now you can adjust the lifter while in the engine. I would still recommend getting them close by removing them and putting them in a vice.
    So I got all of my lifters in and adjusted. I also swapped out the 8RT for some 8BA heads I had from my first worn out engine. I also installed the original oil filter system, except I modified it to move it forward on the cylinder head, as I have firewall mounted master cylinders. Saturday I ran in the cam/lifters using some Lucas zinc additive and it all seemed to go well. No more lifter noise. I have drained the oil and will put more zinc additive in the new oil. As many who know what they are doing have said, definitely drill your lifter bores when you rebuild your engine. Also I wanted to mention that the Isky F8502's are not hollow, they just have depressions of the same sape and location on the sides of the lifter. They may not be the best choice for using a drill bit through a hole in the lifter bore to arrest rotation while adjusting. I thought I was ordering hollow lifters. WTDZ5673.JPG IMG_1560.JPG IMG_1561.JPG IMG_1559.JPG
     
  2. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,197

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Good stuff!
     
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  3. GEBHARD
    Joined: Nov 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,159

    GEBHARD
    Member
    from TX...

    Great save, love the stance
     
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  4. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    I have been busy making some new wood for the body in places that could use the structure to stiffen things up a bit. I used to make wooden bows during my archery days. I also have a lot of original growth pine left over from the time I took down, rebuilt and put back up a 1919 barn. So carving out replacements for these door headers using what was left of the originals was no sweat! I also got a head bolt chrome acorn nut kit. Next I am carving out the wood piece that goes above the windshield, all out of ancient pine. IMG_1595.JPG IMG_1597.JPG IMG_1598.JPG IMG_1566.JPG
     
  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,197

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Care to show us how you carved them out? Looks great
     
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  6. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Sure Tim! For parts that are flat, I just put the old part (or what's left of it) on a piece of lumber the same thickness and trace around the periphery. IMG_1602.JPG IMG_1603.JPG

    Then I cut out that shape using a Skill Saw, or a Table Saw as close as I can. I Jig Saw would work nice if you got one big enough. I can get it really close on the Table Saw, free handing it with no rail in place. Then I clamp up on it in a vise and go at it with the hand tools. I have what I believe is a Horse shoeing file and also the tool in the picture. IMG_1601.JPG

    Another trick I have used is this. If I want to capture a complicated 2D shape, then I start with something that is just close and then staple pieces of card board to the edges that fill the gap to what ever I am trying to match. Then I take the rough piece with the stapled on card board and use it as a pattern of some cheap particle board. Then repeat fitting the particle board in the spot it is going. I keep doing this over and over and in about 2 or 3 generations I have refined the flat pattern pretty well. Then I use my "good" material for the final part. Below is the 1st try at the wood I am shaping to close out about the windshield. IMG_1605.JPG IMG_1606.JPG

    No. It is not like Henry made it. I have my own ideas about closing that area out that don't involve spending $500 on a wood kit. The part shown in the vise and on top of the car is a little more complicated because the top has to match the contour of the roof which is sloping pretty fast at that location. Wish me luck matching it. But I used the same cardboard trick. In the aircraft business, before we had 3D CAD systems, we used to define all kinds of complicated shapes using 2D cuts spaced at intervals. A lost art now.
     
  7. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,197

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Very cool. I love doing things that way. Just simplify.
     
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  8. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,901

    Mart
    Member

    CAD. Cardboard Aided Design.
     
  9. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Stogy, Black Fifty, reagen and 7 others like this.
  10. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Good one Mart!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  11. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Cosmo49, Stogy, reagen and 6 others like this.
  12. 31choppedtopcoupe
    Joined: Jul 8, 2020
    Posts: 19

    31choppedtopcoupe
    Member
    from Ohio

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  13. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Amazon. I think they cost a little under $20 bucks for the pair. They are so forgiving because they easily adjust. IMG_1626.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  14. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Your grandpa was a hell of a man. J&L man the steel for model A cars?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  15. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,197

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Those latches are neat!
     
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  16. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    That would be great fun!
     
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  17. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 305

    getow
    Member

    My dad also worked at J and L in the Hazelwood section of Pgh Pa. Then it was LTV Steel. Now theyre building something else there like Google or Amazon related crap. Times sure do change. Small world.
     
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  18. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

  19. No open headers? :D
    How does she sound?
     
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  20. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Good but a little more quiet than I care for. Leaving out the glass packs would probably be better. I trimmed the pipes to length today. IMG_1688.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  21. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    I finally got around to locating the battery were it belongs. Also installed a battery cut off switch. The battery fits right behind the seat. I made my own 0/2 AWG battery cables using wire I bought at Lowes and a $20 crimping tool. They came out real nice. I got lazy and just bought the billet battery hold down. It looks nice, and I should for what it costs. IMG_1754.JPG IMG_1755.JPG IMG_1756.JPG IMG_1758.JPG
     
  22. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,197

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Looking good, those glass packs will get louder after some miles. Go excuse to go drive it!
     
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  23. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    Got my new Firestones! 7.50-16's in back and 5.00-16's in front! IMG_1785.JPG IMG_1784.JPG IMG_1790.JPG
     
  24. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

  25. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,487

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    All kinds of awesome. Apologies if its been mentioned before but if not, have you had a chance to show the original owner yet (I'm hoping he is still around).
     
  26. There’s a lot to like here, nice job. I didn’t even mind the other tires- what is the ride/ handling difference from the other tires? I need to get something on the road before I tackle a something from not much project.
     
  27. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,197

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Man hot rods are fucking cool.
     
  28. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    He has been out for a couple of rides in it. He has not seen the new tires yet.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  29. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    No difference in the ride. Rides good.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  30. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    [​IMG][​IMG]



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