Technical 56-62 Corvette Steering

Took my '56 Vette for a short drive today, first outing. I had adjusted the steering box but it's still wandering. Crawled under it and had someone wiggle the wheel. The inner tie rod ends go up and down before they go left and right. It's the thing in front with the big round dingus that's allowing it. What is that, an idler arm? Is it adjustable, rebuildable? I gather 49-54 car is the same?

No, still haven't washed it.

 

Idler arm bushing is worn, common in the late ‘50s - 60s, rebuild kits were easy to find, not sure how available they are now. I’m sure a Corvette supplier would have them.

They are a bear to get out of the car, only 3 bolts hold it in, 2 are easy, on the bottom in plain sight, the 3rd is on top, can’t see it - and real easy to cross-thread when you put it back together.

 

Thanks Dave. Found a diagram, looks like I need to pull 12300, and apparently there is a bearing to replace?. Don't see the bolts you mention, or does the bracket have to come out too?

 

@blowby

What @Dave Downs said is what I would have said too. However the photo you posted indicates Vettes from ‘56/‘’62 used a different design for the bell crank pivot than ‘49 thru ‘54 passenger and ‘53 thru ‘55 Vettes.

As I recall, the earlier design used bushings and a pivot pin, similar to a king pin setup, not a bearing as shown in your post. Even though the bearing is listed for that purpose, I note that the illustration does not show the bearing as a separate part. Part 12300 would appear to be an ‘assembly’.....looks more like a tie rod end, but that doesn’t make sense as it doesn’t ‘swivel’, it pivots on a fixed plane.

In any case, the attachment bolts on the later style are different than the early version.

Ray

 

Thanks Ray. I changed the title to reflect the difference. Hoping someone who's been through this will explain how to go about it.

 

@31hotrodguy has just been through this, with help from the usual knowledgable guys. Look up his threads

 

As you may realize, the idler arm and the third arm assembly are two different items in the front suspension. If you can find the slop you may very well zero in on the basis for the wandering. Scott (31hotrodguy) has done some work on his 61 front suspension and posted a bit on it. Sometimes getting the third arm bearing out can be a bit tricky. He may be able to tell you exactly what he did. Also be careful with adjusting the steering box-real slow on the adjustments IMO and also better to remove the old lube if it still has lube and fill with chassis grease.

I tried to explain to Scott to remove the third arm bearing if it refuses to come out with a bit of heat to drill a hole on the top to use a small drift to help knock it out. Make the hole a bit undersize and then when the bearing is out open up the hole to the correct size so you can put a zerk fitting in it. I have had to fight with a couple and they can be stubborn on occasion. Once you get everything tight in the front suspension there should not be any wandering.

The service book that is also mentioned in Scott's post is a pretty good book to have at your disposal.

 

Heres another resource
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/5362csg/index.html

 

Thanks Guys, great info! I'm puzzled by one thing: The manual Scotty linked talks about an idler arm and a third arm. Are they talking about the same part?

I've often thought mechanics should be born with a third arm. One to hold the nut, one to hold the part and one to hold the bolt.

 

Blowby, when one thinks of an idler arm, the third arm assembly is not what first comes to mind. Corvettes adopted this third arm from the full size Chevrolets of the late 40s and early 50s (although they are not interchangeable). Long story short, the answer to your question is yes, the third arm is the culprit you are dealing with and that is why this service manual is pretty decent. If you do as directed in the manual, the bearing might be a bit rusted or stuck and some heat and a light tap here and there with a hammer may help. I have had a couple so badly rusted that no matter how much swearing you do it does not seem to help. That is when I have drilled a hole. Scott though may have some helpful hints as he just did the job and I know he fought it a bit.

 

Got it, thanks Jim. Going to order a bearing, seem widely available, but I have to get the pickle fork from my other shop for the tie rods before I can tear into it. Will post a follow up.

 

All Fixed. So quick? Well, I popped the tie rods off at the wheels, looked easier than the center ones, then knocked the cotter pin out of the big nut of the bearing shaft. Put a wrench on the nut, loose! Wiggled the arm and sure enough, that's where the play was. Torqued it back down, no more slop.

I take it that's not on a taper? And only one cotter pin hole. Took a bunch of torque to get the next slot lined up. I suppose the hole or shaft might be worn from the play but I'll go with it for now and see. No dissembled photos, since there really wasn't any, but here's what a neglected '56 Corvette underside looks like.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Got it done just before dinner. Tomorrow hopefully.

 

Funny you should ask.. I had a few other things needing attention and was just about to take it out today but.. The hardtop was missing those two 1/4-20 bolts under the back window last time and was bouncing around. I had to push the top around to get the bolts started, now one of the pins that just ahead of the bolts won't go in it's hole at the top of the door. Is there some adjustment slots in any of that? Once I get that tabbed down it's ready for a drive. I suppose over the years the fiberglass settles.

 

Those tops are pretty flexible just push it to where you want it but be careful of the paint

 

Thanks Scotty. I just tried again. I can get the bolt and the pin in, but when I latch the front the pin pops out. Found this service bulletin online, sounds like my problem. Mine is left side only as stated in #2. Will try the parking brake thing tomorrow.
Sounds a little weird though..
https://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/knowledgebase/print-1145.html

 

Good news. Today I tried loosening the parking brake bracket as noted in the service bulleting above. Didn't help as it was all the way at the end of the slots in the direction it needed to go. I then tried putting a jack under frame at the door area, that flexed it enough that the pin and front latch fit and nothing broke.. I do wonder what slot they are talking about that would be elongated in future C1s (#3 in the service bulletin above).

Finally off for a spin, the steering is now great, nice and tight. It still wanders a bit, next step is to check the toe in, maybe the ball joints and bushings but it's certainly drivable now. I kind of like having that big old steering wheel 4 inches from my chest, much different than anything else I have.

It does have a noticeable howl coming from the trans or rear end. Need to check fluid levels, rear wheel bearing.. Ah, the joys of vintage cars..

Thanks for the prod Moriarity.

Oh, almost forgot, also gave it it's first bath in 50 years. Didn't get much of the crud off but at least the windows are clean. Going to take some serious scrubbing. Also washed my fire truck.

 

Love the car. I would try a clay bar on it.. Mothers?The one with the gold gt 40 on it.

 

Hey what's this pedal above the dimmer switch? Ejection seat?

 

And are these rear end limit straps stock?

 

Straps are stock

 

Hmm OK thanks. That will be a ways down the list of maintenance tasks.

 

No ball joints, kingpins.

 

If that is mold on the paint try vinegar and water with a small amount of dish soap first.