Customs Is there such a thing as a reliable door popper solenoid?

Any pics of this?

 

I never understood what is so bad about those beautiful chrome door handles.. I had one pop open on me while going 65-70 on a long deep curve. Thankfully the door didn't hit anything it just opened then the wind blew it back..

 

Well, I just had the door pad off, but it is back on now. Basically, they just used a pull cable and routed it though the door tying to the latch. They ran it through the jamb along the hinge and then came out in the wheel well with the actual pull. You don’t really see anything, but they lined up the pull handle with the trim so you know where to reach to pull. Basic and all mechanical. I’ll text you a pic of what you actually see.

 

The big thing is keep the latch lubed. Nobody realizes how hard the door handle movement has become until you lube it. It is something I do at oil changes.

 

Form over function with a custom, and I'm OK with that.

 

I had to look and make sure I was on the H.A.M.B. If this needs to be explained I believe your probably not a real Custom Car kind of guy, but Just an Old Car guy.

 

I have hunted for the photos of job in progress on my 51. Seems they were probably not backed up before my old external hard drive died. It's actually pretty easy. Picture a triangle with a Vertical leg of 2" and at the bottom corner a horozontal leg of 3.5" and pivoting at the bottom 90 degree corner. You connect a pull rod from the 2" leg to the door latch. At the long end of the 3.5" leg a rod goes strait down to the solenoid. You are now pulling the latch in it's designed direction and can with a little Math make each item move it's total needed length and stop at it's max travel. This keeps from trying to tear the door latch apart and lets you use all the strength of the power unit. This is probably clear as Mud but best I can do with just One cup of Coffee.

 

Lots of good info so far. Need to get it back on track.
Recap of the original post.
Just wondering what name brands would be best? Or would it better to use 55 Chevy solenoids.

 

The ones I used are from Autolock and are the 75 lb ones. You can see I'm pulling strait down to move the latch horozontal. These photos were taken 2 years ago while doing a window channel repair. Don't show much, sorry.

 

[QUOTE="Roothawg, post: 14019388, member: 160" Just wondering what name brands would be best? Or would it better to use 55 Chevy solenoids.[/QUOTE]

I have a theory being you don't need a ton of magnetic pull power if all your doing is moving the latch release mechanism. It's when your working against the latch spring, the Handle spring, weird angles of pull going around a pully and trying to move everything at once. There's just to much resistance for good smooth movement. Take all that out of the system and just move the latch you'll be fine. You also need to know I don't think like most normal Car Guys.

 

Emergency tailgate release in my secret spot.

 

What puzzles me is: After all that work, they add dummy spotlights and dummy lakes pipes....

p.s. I know it is "TRADITIONAL", I saw lots of it in the little magazines in the late 1950's, I just never could understand it.

 

My pal mike used these on his 58 Chevy truck. HRP



Information

 

There was a fairly in depth tech thread on the magnetic actuated door popper awhile back. Maybe someone can find that and post a link on this thread.

 

You use a reed switch like this:

to complete the coil circuit on a relay and use the switch terminals on the relay to power the solenoid. When you put a magnet in proximity to the reed in the switch, they close and complete the circuit activating the solenoid.

 

How do you keep from shorting out on that? You can't heat shrink it or it will engage the switch. I guess a guy could tie wrap heat shrink around it. I'll have to pick one of those up to play with it and kinda wrap my head around the install.

 

The ones I used were the pieces they sell to put sensors on doors and windows. Encased in plastic.
Amazon.com: Augiimor 3Sets MC-32 Door Window Magnetic Switch Alarm Magnetic Reed Switch Security System Anti NO Normally Open Door Sensor for Door and Window Sensor: Home Improvement
You can hide the wired one behind anything non-magnetic, and when you pass a magnet along side it, it will close the circuit. I hide them behind stainless side trim, usually. Can work at the edge of any glass, too.

 

That's a good idea. Don't know if that would be too tall for my 55 Star chief trim. I'll have to measure it and see.

 

Root, the contacts are encased in glass. You can splice a wire on both ends and shrink wrap the whole thing.
You can find them on Amazon, just search glass encased reed switch or magnetic switch and they should come up.

 

I just HAVE to share this with my HAMB bros:
About 5 years ago, right here in River City! A co-worker at the time had a friend with...Get this, a 'Full Kustom!' ...I just HAD to see it...(his words)
So, the guy drives in with a '53 Chevy Tudor, it's nosed, decked, no door handles. Smooth...the guy's nice, wanted to show me his 'hideaway switches'.
So, he gets out, closes drivers door, and then walks up and turns around. Sticks his butt out, backs into the drivers door skin. =CLICK!= The door pops open. Slick... but I didn't really love the oil canning of the drivers doorskin...(doorskin, not what it sounded like)
Kinda weird, 'Brrump!' He had to get away fast, or the door would close again.
The guy went, "Bend...Bump." Then'Brrump!' Door closed. The guy: "Wait, wait...Watch..."
Comedy act. Right here in Atwater.
I.H. starter button on the inner skin of door, WITH the rubber button boot! Cool...

 

Wow ......

 

Some ideas
I like this "Key" vs an electric solinoid
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/shaved-door-handles.1196530/#post-13622843

Magnetic
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/magic-invisible-buttons.742729/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...or-shaved-handles-advice.506944/#post-5588600

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ndle-for-suicide-doors.1107194/#post-12562216

 

I think I’d just use Lincoln push buttons. All mechanical, no dead battery worries....

 

I agree

 

That’s what I did in one side but I didn’t like the way they came out. The frenched panel looks too flat.