Hot Rods Seat Riser

I have two aftermarket seats going into my hot rod but after test fitting, I need to raise the seat height by 2". I made these out of 2" square tube that is 3" on the bottom and 2.25" on top. This was scrap I had around but was thinner than I thought--16 gauge. If I box in the front, do you think it will be strong enough. I plan to bolt the seat to the riser, and the riser to the flat floor. I will reinforce the bottom of the floor by welding in a plate probably with a welded nut. Thoughts?

 

you could use one machine screw and add 2 nuts inside tube to keep it from collapsing

 

Box off one end,so it can't bend over from a side load

 

I didnt understand the first post but i see now--use the machine screw as a brace inside the tube---i dont think that is necessary if I weld a cover on the front angled end. Looking for confirmation that using 16 gauge is sufficient and I shouldnt go to something thicker.

 

It will probably be fine once you add a reinforcement but why base your life on using what I call WLA stock (whatever's laying around).
Still need to ask, is it important to get it done immediately instead of sourcing some heavier wall tubing?

 

I like to keep the metals the same thickness, it makes welding them easier.

 

Best approach right here. Kind of the “chain is only as strong as it’s weakest link”.

 

I'm not arguing any of that. I am obviously concerned that 16 gauge is

What would you guys use? The sheet metal on the floor is probably 16 gauge. I have some 10 gauge but it is only 1 3/4 square--1/4 of an inch is not going to make a difference in ride height. I obviously can go buy some since we are only talking about a few feet. Any other thoughts?

 

I never have liked that feeling of always wanting to slide out of some bucket seats due to being mounted flat, so in one cut I made these tapered risers out of one long piece of rectangular tubing.

 

When in doubt, build it stout..

 

DDDenny--I like that. Do you remember how thick that tubing was. I considered using rectangular tubing across the front and back but I dont think I would have access to bolt down.

 

If this was an assignment from a teacher. I would give you a D. Yes you could make it work by doing this and by doing that, but.......... How much horse power does your hot rod have. This must be considered when building mounts.

 

I used 1/8" (.120) wall rec. tubing.

 

Since Stanlow gave me a "D" while that is a passing grade, not good enough.

Thanks everyone--exactly what I needed. Back to the drawing board.

Thanks DDDenny for the pic and details.

 

the obvious solution is to find some tubing that matches the tubing on the seat, cut off the existing tabs, weld on some more tube, and then weld on some mounting plates that fit the existing holes in the floor.

But this might not be obvious to someone who doesn't have the materials, tools, and abilities to do it.

 

Extending the leg with the same material as Squirrel mentioned makes things look like they were built to fit to begin with. A block under a piece makes it look like you didn't know what you were doing to start with and used a Crutch to get the end result you wanted.

 

What you posted looks like an afterthought-quick-fix kinda thing. I would do like both Squirrel and Pist-n-Broke said:
Cut off that tab at the bottom of the tubing. Then get tubing that is the same size outside diameter and extend the tubing to the length you need, then weld the lower tab back onto the now longer legs. Don't forget to sleeve the inside of the tubing for strength so its not relying on just a butt weld on what is probably a pretty thin piece of tubing. Drill a large hole on both sides of the outside tubing pieces in order to plug weld the inner splice to each piece of tubing.

Once you sand it all down and clean up your welds, no one but you will ever know they were extended.

 

Where were you guys yesterday! Great idea.

I didnt like the way those feet laid out and this will give me an opportunity to revise. Of course, I may just start from scratch and build--its just a box.

 

Don't know,,what is your fighting weight? 110 or 220 ?

 

Tanks, Inc. makes a great seat bracket that is adjustable up to 3-inches. Strong, attractive, well made and not too expensive. Check it out.

 

I used to repair a lot of seat frame repair at my welding shop. The modern factory seat frames are made with 11 gauge tube and support pieces, but even those fail a lot more often then one would expect. If you are pushing much over 200lbs, the 1/8" is boarder line minimum. I wouldn't trust 1/16" even if it was braced a lot. The fatigue, over time will break it.
Its the continuous movement people do when they are sitting on a seat that brakes the frame and brackets, if they would sit still the frames and brackets would last forever, but no one sits still in a car seat. Gene