Projects 1934 chevrolet 4 door master - steel or wood?

She turned out NICE. Ya I think either way it’s gonna suck. But I really like these cars cause nobody wants to do the fab or wood.


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Do yourself a favor and buy a Fiberglass body and just move on.

 

Argggg YA. I should... but I love real steel.


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KC looks like quality stuff. https://www.chevywood.com/quality.html

 

You will pay dearly for that choice. There's a reason you don't see many Chev's of the 30's.

 

I'm from southern Utah. I have approximately 100 pieces of 4"x6"x4' of 100 year old oak I've been dieing to dig into and use for my '34.

 

Oh I know. I was sitting on the chair looking at my future demise. Lol there is a sense of satisfaction tho if I do the harder path. But I know what you mean


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A bit of distance. Would be cool to work on the cars. I know this car is gonna be a challenge. But I do enjoy that kind of thing. Like what Pist said, nobody wants to tackle such a project


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The wood, metal finishing, body work and paint on just the body (no fenders or aprons) was 24k. I am restoring this car for a Nascar friend of mine. I will not do another one either, wood or steel.

 

One and done. Don’t blame ya


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Just a small glimps at the work ahead of ya. Prior to any of this you have to get the body back in shape. Use a lazor and work off a vertical center line to take the Buldge at the B post out, then good luck.

By the way. the Firewall that was in it went away also.

 

Now I recognize this build. Turned out really nice. I’m surprised nobody doesn’t make the steel pieces at least for the doors or the b pillar


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No market, no profit. Then the fact Standard and Master are a total different Body. No Company want's to play that game.

 

Ah that’s right. Forgot about that. Only perk is that you got a car you don’t see very often


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To bad your so far , I am in canada .
I am wrecking a 33 fordoor once it warms up.
All the wood in the car is near perfect .

 

There you go Jim

 

I have removed the wood from several of these cars and is not a huge deal .I enjoy being the only 33 34 chev amongst a car show of an over abundance of model a and 32 fords .
Real fabricators build chevs LOL.
These are some I have done and doing .

 

Well the dang boarders are closed cause Biden pissed off justin!
Maybe he can freight it. This would be perfect !


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Wood, that is what I’m talking about man! I love being the black sheep of the cars. I love building stuff nobody wants or nobody sees. That was awesome haha


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Well most people have gotten back to me don’t have any patterns for the wood I need in my 34


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If anyone gave me a pattern taken off a used and removed piece of wood I wouldn't think of using it. My best advice is to get your Tin Can back in shape and well supported then hand carve the Wood to fit inside what you have. If your project was a Standard I would sell you a complete unopened box of Door Wood but it won't do ya any good for the Master.

 

Ya I hear ya there man. I appreciate it.
I’m gonna dissect the car brace it and see what kind of damage I can do lol I can only go forward right??


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So I'm vary aware I do things a lot different than most so I try not to tell people exactly how to do things. Given that I'll try to give you some direction based on what little I've actually done. You need a base line, something you know is Correct or will accept as Correct to start from. Being my Body Shell was so out of shape I made it my Doors. After getting the Body Shell anchored on my Frame table I lifted the skin at the B post until I liked the profile of what I'll call the Drip Rail. I then laid the EMPTY door skins B edge to B edge and checked top to bottom crown. Once close to a match I set them in place and checked match door to body at B post. Once I liked where that was the real work started. The Doors must fit with good gap. I decided I needed to keep them on the Body to help with inner structure. I chose the lower edge of Belt line as a permanent go to for fit. I then took a piece of 1/8" X 2" flat bar and fastened it to the Door under it and onto the Quarter as well as Cowel so I could then make the opening correct. See photo. I have found these cars get Fat in the middle due to all the Router work for door latch hardware and wood failure. You will correct as needed to get things right.

 

For those who have not seen good wood sills and sub structure .I am going to make patterns and make or have them made out of steel or aluminium and possibly market them .Seem to be the biggest stumbling block to these old chevs .

 

Good advice there pist-n-broke ,definitely best to fit the door to the opening and fasten them .
The wood sills are 1 1/2 thick so your cowl should sit 11/2 off the frame to get the fenders and running boards to fit well .
Nice work Piston !!!!

 

It's interesting that by the early 1930's GM was way larger than Ford as a manufacturer but still messed with wood. Must have been out of tradition rather than economics.....

 

I don't know if making anything special for a front to back sub structure is real necessary or not. If you go back to post 41 my main support tube is 1.5" X 3" rectangle tube 3/16" thick. Mega easy to work off of, can be welded direct to or go to 1/4" wall and drill and tap. That was the easiest piece in the package for me.

 

That is the way I do them too .With the rear substructure in place. The bottom of the wheel wells bolt to them and the width of the car is set as well .

 

Cars were built and sold for comfort and design back in the 30s .
All.the wood in a 30s chev made an incredibly quiet ride , free from road noise and traffic noise . An all steel ford doesn't even compare !!!

 

I read somewhere that in the 1920's and early 1930's, GM owed ALOT of timber land in Minnesota, Northern Wisconsin, and Northern Michigan. They just used the resources that they already had. As a result, GM cars didn't get rid of all the wood framing until 1937.

By the way, I'm using a combination of wood and steel in my 34 Master coupe. Most of the original wood was still nice and solid. However, the framing in the bottoms of the doors, and the wooden floor subrails / floorpans were bad. Those are the areas that were replaced with steel.