Anybody know anything about blueing steel? Or, "browning" actually. I want to brown the steel tailgate hinges for the DeSoto wagon. The chrome is blistered off, I can strip it and polish them, I thought browning them would compliment the paint, be quick and an easy home shop alternative to chrome. Plus, I have a .45 Colt "New Service" revolver that was my great, great uncle Chet's, who gave to my dad, who carried at his sidearm when he was in the Army in occupied Japan after WWII. It has a brown finish as opposed to blueing, and looks pretty cool. It'd be a nice tribute to my dad, and my Uncle Chet. I know "Google" has all the answers to any question, I just thought it'd be nice to hear from anyone who's done it.
First don’t do anything to that Colt! Might check on some gun forums, my dad used to use a cold bluing on some old rusty barrels. He’d spend tons of time with fine steel wool, then something else, some type of cloth to polish them (dry) then apply this “cold bluing” stuff with cotton balls. It couldn’t be rubbed off. I’m not sure if any of that stuff is around here anymore, nor would I know it if I spotted it, but if you can find who makes/made the “good stuff” is where I’d start.
Check out one of the many firearm forums. You will find everything from the original process to blueing in a bottle. I used the bottle stuff once with good results but I can’t remember the brand. If your thinking about redoing the Colt, I wouldn’t. Even with very little finish left they are still more valuable than ones that have been redone. Budget36, ya beat me by a nanosecond.
I have been Parkerizing parts for many years. The finish is a dark charcoal color, it may be an option for you. https://www.palmettoenterprisesparkerizing.com/product-page/manganese-quart-32oz
Also I know the brownish color you speak of, I’m not sure if that’s what happens to old blueing or a different color used? I never dig into that info
I have browned a lot of steel. There are two basic options - original acid rusting and newer chemical browning. The original acid process is a slow multi application process that may require a damp box. The chemical process is a quick one step. If you want a nice deep finish use the old process. The new process is quick, but some steels might get a copper tone that usually can be corrected with subsequent applications. Both process requires very good degreasing and oil free steel wool. Think acetone. For something like your hinges I would most likely use the chemical. Lots of info on the net. PM me if you want more info.
For sure, I'm not touching that! It's in fine condition, has been stored in an oiled cloth in its holster. It's an heirloom, although he and I did fire it about 10 years ago.
@Ziggster did that recently to some select parts of his Flathead he's getting together for his project...I left him a page in his thread... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/blueing-steel.1225466/#post-14003976
Thanks. I think I'll try the original, I'm in Michigan, so the humidity should be on my side. Although, we've had unusually dry air this spring, around 10-15%, much lower than usual.
Birchwood Casey has a Plum Brown kit that is easy to apply/reapply that's used for muzzle loaders for the vintage finish.
When I was a kid I built a Pennsylvania rifle from a Dixie Gun Works kit. I browned the barrel with mercuric chloride. Worked great. Almost instant rust brown. Let it eat a bit and wash and oil it. I don't think they sell it any more. To kids or anyone else. New and improved: https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index...8/product_name/LA1301+Dixie+Browning+Solution Good luck, Mike
Brian: Seems like your answer to the bluing problem has been taken care of. One word of caution though: I wouldn't store the Colt in the holster;mainly because I have seen too many that have been damaged by the tanning acids in the leather. I store all my firearms wrapped in jeweler's cloths that have some chemical in them that discourages fingerprint damage and the like. Even if it has been stored that way for years without a problem,I wouldn't take the chance. Hope all is well with you and family and stay safe!
X2. Same goes for a knife in its sheath. Even modern blades can be damaged, especially if it has a brass bolster.
Jim I am interested in the old way of doing this. As I get older I am finding that the original way may take longer or be more labor intensive. I am also finding the original ways are often cheaper and better in the long run. Would you mind giving me/us a quick rundown, or point us towards a good website that details the process. One thing I find with the web there is more information on any subject than I can process in a lifetime. There is also a lot of misinformation, assumptions and just plain errors. If you go to the wrong website it is easy to get led up the garden path. The problem is you need to have some knowledge on a subject to realize you are being feed incorect information. Thanks Steve
None of these processes is rust proof. Take Allen screws and lay them in the rain and see what happens to them.
Really? I browned some mtb cro moly cranks and rode them for years in the mud and rain. Bulletproof! Same with my flintlock in the rain
use the gunstock kits they work great and are safe. Easy to get and the directions are easy to follow
Blueing needs maintenance to prevent rusting, especially if exposed to water, how are you going to do that on the areas bolted to the body? I see rust creeping out from under the parts... Looks like a good place for powdercoat to me.... You might even be able to match the paint.
You are probably thinking of crocus cloth.... It is extra extra extra fine for polishing metals and taking off fine rust.... LynnW
A buddy just had some hinges zinc plated locally. I sandblasted them for him to prepare them. They came out great and will require no maintenance. You don't have to disassemble them for this process. Good luck.
Put it together bare steel. Take a trip to Bonneville and drive on the salt. After it rusts, oil it all over and the red turns brown. Now you have another reason to go to the Salt Flats....
I have no idea if this works and wouldn’t try it without experimenting first. But I read someplace that dirt bikers coat the fully sand blasted cleaned exhaust systems with automatic transmission fluid and the exhaust heat turns the surface a blackish brown that prevents rust and lasts a long time.
I've put a nice dark finish on steel grappling hooks that I use to pull dead branches down. Get the whole deal red hot and then drop it in used motor oil. The dirtier the oil the better. Unlike a car, a properly stored gun can lay in a drawer for 100 years, removed from storage, and will operate perfectly. No rubber seals or gaskets to fail, no fluids attracting moisture and turning to calf shit, etc. Making a firearm bulletproof? The statement borders on being an oxymoron.
There are a number of processes to get a brown, black, or blue color on steel. A few have been used in the motor vehicle business before more modern processes were developed. Browning comes up a lot related to older firearms, but a friend of mine restores early Harley and Indian motorcycles and they have some browned parts. So the discussion should be HAMB friendly. While these older processes do provide some level of protection, today on most auto related parts I use black oxide. On many shop tools that I make I just use the old process sometimes referred to as fire bluing: heat part to dull red and drop into a can of oil. You will get a blue color that wears fairly well and can be touched up easily if you want. For shop stuff I just use motor oil. Some older manuals for a deeper blue mix in linseed oil. Browning is a rusting process. The old acid rust process is slower, and can be a bit finicky, and can produce a nice bark brown. If you boil the part after browning it will turn black. The secret is to have the right balance of heat and humidity to promote rust development but not condensation. Most of the year here in the northeast it requires the use of a damp box to get repeatable results. The surface is oiled or waxed when done, depending on use, to provide protection for further rusting. Bluing creates a blue / black surface coating using chemicals and usually heat. I am set up to do any of the above surface treatments, but again, on auto projects I seem to use black oxide for small parts.