Technical The upholstery thread to end all threads

that sounds like a plan. I know where tons of seats that I could rod the foam out of.

that’s what I was thinking. Wish I still had all my Hot Rod Mechanix mags from the 90s. I know there was a step by step doing exactly that.

 

Looking at doing a tutorial post when we finish mine

 

Do it.

 

I know what I like, I know what I want, I just can't sew. Good straight binding is akin to paint guys looking at door gaps. Pleats in seats must ALWAYS line up. Welt cord is sometimes better to make yourself, some commercial welt cord has less than 1/4" tail on it for between the 2 panels. The center cord is common stuff at commercial suppliers. The old rolled paper cord was the best but the newer foam core type is ok. If you're building or repairing seat springs don't fret too much. Border wires don't have to be spring steel but mild steel will bend. Just use something tough but bendable. Spring steel breaks easy. Don't ask how I know, over thinking. I like 1/4 or 1/2 inch sew foam under everything. Keeps the panels taught and pretty even over old school cotton or horsehair. Use real cotton if you can get it, fiberfill will "lie" to you when you think there's enough and crush down when it counts. Don't be afraid to build up in horsehair either. They used it for a reason. That's just a primer from being a master upholstery/trim "scrub nurse" for decades. Ya never forget.

Didn't read every reply, so if they were already mentioned sorry. These folks are friendly, helpful, ship stuff out fast, very reasonable pricing:

https://www.albrightssupply.com/

Good luck. Learning new stuff is an adventure all it's own.

 

Sometimes my expectations far exceed my abilities.

 

Subscribed

 

looks like i scored a newer truck bench seat to rob the foam out of. Once I start the seat rebuild ill post it in my build thread and maybe a Tech of how I did it. Gotta find a walking foot machine or Drive to NC to borrow my buddies.

 

Foam degrades over time. I have taken apart a number of old seats and the foam is usually crumbling and sandy. If the OEM cover was glued on then you have to deal with taking that off and not destroying the crappy old foam which isn't going to fit your vehicle without work anyways. For me none of that was worth the price savings of going to a foam/upholstery supply place and talking to them about the type of foam you need and buying new.

 

I worked in dealers in the 90s and early 2000s. Nothing was glued on then. The cover lottery snap on with big plastic clips sewn into the covers. They come apart easy. But the foam would be the real problem. After some thought I’m just going to buy bulk foam and form my own.

 

I’ve seen where some of the guys on this thread have talked about using 1/2 inch sew foam to smooth everything out. Specifically @theHIGHLANDER mentioned it. When using the half in sew foam would you stitch the sew foam at every seam on the seat cover? Or would you use it as a secondary layer on top of all the foam and or cotton batting right before the cover goes on? I apologize if this is a rookie dumb question but I am a dumb rookie when it comes to this.

 

Generally attached to the seating surfaces with trim tack adhesive. And with pleats or diamonds, the foam is what gives it shape. You can see the foam sticking out from under the blue vinyl here

 

thanks @Lloyd's paint & glass ! That’s what I was thinking but I tend to over think dam near everything. I have giant roll of white diamond tuck I’m planning on using for inserts for my seat covers. That let me know exactly what I needed.

 

In a custom scenario i guess you could use sew foam on the bolsters to do patterns or pleats, diamonds etc, but my experience has always been that the sew foam is used on the parts you actually sit on lol, but then again, I'm a painter

 

All the parts you sit on or lean against get 1/2 inch scrim foam glued to the material. I also use 1/4 inch scrim backed foam on all of the other panels. It gives the vinyl a full look as compared to looking flat. Just try it. Also adds strength to the material. Look at the color change in the windlace.

 

Thank you kindly @Roothawg. I will try the number.

 

I called, number is no longer in service?

 

Here is a chart on how to buy foam. New foam. Utility is what Wally world sells and OK is what the box store Fabric stores sell. What does you supplier sell ? If you can figure out this chart, you are doing good. I buy the best foam my supplier sells. Did some stools for a place here in town. 5 years later, the foam is shot. Will use automotive foam from a van seat this time around. It will be a denser foam. If it can stand up to 100,000 miles and still in good shape, it should last more than 5 years as a bar stool. Just my observation. Yes, if it crumbles apart, don`t use it. But I bet the vehicle had 150,000 miles on it. Driven by a 250 pound person. The support factor and the density rating are what you need to pay attention to.

 

My bucket, seat and tonneau cover done by @woody45 before his passing. Recently had the rest finished by a local master.
Small car, but a lot of work in it.


Last pic is Mike test fitting the seat

 

WOW he did an AMAZING job. RIP

 

I just know I used a mid 90's caravan bench seat in my truck and it was glued on and with the deteriorating foam and the glued on cover it was a disaster by the time I got it apart. I wasn't planning on using the foam anyways as I was widening the seat but if I had planned on it it would have been unusable.

 

You listen to to many people on The HAMB that sat to use a mini van seat in a traditional Hot Rod. For a few years from 88-95. Car manufacturer`s thought it would be easier to inject foam in a a form with the cover attached. Thus permanently bonding the cover to the foam. Can`t take off the cover without destroying the foam. Easy to produce them fast, but warranty was a pain in the but. Had to replace the foam and cover. More costly. Some models they injected the foam over the frame as well. Not easy to remove to say the least. Some foams on these models didn`t fair well. As like yours. You just got a bad seat design.

 

Like I said worked fine for me as I was making it bigger so had no intention of using the foam.

 

I had a couple of panels that needed some repair and this was what used to hold them in. I read another thread here on the HAMB about using Industrial Velcro was/is a much better way to attach panels. I used contact cement to make the bonds more secure and its the only way to go IMO.

 

Seriously Industrial Velcro and contact cement
Better? And more secure and the only way?


Come back and tell us that later on down the road when your Velcro is failing or the contact cement has lost it’s bond and your panels are falling off.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/interior-panel-adhesives.1215353/#post-13868969

this is where I found the information, and it worked well for me on saving 25 year old interior panels.

 

I was taught that trick by an old upholstery guy that's retired now man. I've done it for years and never had an issue. I've noticed around here that most are closed minded, their way is the only way. And if you're not 70 years old you don't know what you're talking about. I'd love to see them keep up with me in my shop.

 

Heres a question, once your seat or whatever your trying to cover has the foam on, how much seam allowance do you give when trying to make a pattern? Thanks, ty

 

1/2" is a good number. Starting out.

 

Thanks man

 

Make the foam about a 1 / 2 inch bigger than finished size. Then cut the material the same size as the foam. Will fit snug that way, if material isn`t too stretchy. Trial and error. 1/2 inch seam allowance is fine for furniture. A bit smaller works better for automotive. 3 /8.