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Technical Nailhead clutch linkage in model a frame

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by nonipshere, Mar 25, 2021.

  1. nonipshere
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 181

    nonipshere
    Member

    I’m installing a 322 nailhead in a Model A roadster. I’m using a Ford 3speed top loader with an open drive. The transmission mounts on a Ford F1 crossmember with pedals to match. The brake hook up looks simple but, not so for the clutch. Does anyone have any info or pictures on a clutch linkage set up using the above configuration. Thanks


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  2. There's an excellent thread by DRuss32 on converting to a cable clutch. I did it on my 27 and it solved a lot of problems

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    irishsteve likes this.
  3. Because the clutch fork needs to travel rearward to disengage the clutch, typically a bar similar to a z bar is used. As you push the pedal forward, the lower bracket at the other end of the bar travels rearward, "pulling" the clutch fork back. All this linkage takes up a lot of space, and with the starter being on that side, it makes it even worse. The suggestion of a cable set up IMHO solves a lot of those issues. If you haven't gotten the motor, a 364 is actually narrower than the 322.
     
  4. nonipshere
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 181

    nonipshere
    Member

    No results when I search the member name. Do you know the exact headline?
     

  5. nonipshere
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 181

    nonipshere
    Member

    too late. already have the 322. First pic is something I found on the internet. doesn't look all the complicated. Second pic is my vehicle
     

    Attached Files:

  6. I was envisioning a later top loader. You should be able to adapt what you see in the first picture to your set-up.
     
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  7. nonipshere
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 181

    nonipshere
    Member

    Thanks. I still keep the cable in consideration should I have any major headaches.


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  8. I was going to say what the pics you found are. Use the bar from a 40's car with the bolt on ball end from a 46-48 car (on the frame). Then weld on a bottom arm and connect some adjustment rod from the pedal to the welded on arm (like a half Z bar set up).
     
  9. Not sure if you have gotten that far yet, but unless you are going to fabricate custom headers, there are a couple of exhaust manifolds for your project that work the best. Driver's side 1960 Lasabre with a 364 and single exhaust. Passenger side 1961 Lasabre 364 single. Both hug the block tight and exit straight down. Drivers side in front of the starter, passenger side in front of the oil filter.
     
  10. nonipshere
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 181

    nonipshere
    Member

    I might be interested. Could you send pics to [email protected] Thanks


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  11. nonipshere
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 181

    nonipshere
    Member

    I solved the issue using a lever arm and pivot ball from a ‘41 Ford clutch. Bent the arm and then cut it. Next sleeved it with 3/4 inch pipe and made it adjustable with hex head screws before welding. IMG_3550.JPG IMG_3555.JPG IMG_3551.JPG IMG_3552.JPG IMG_3556.JPG IMG_3558.JPG


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    kadillackid likes this.
  12. That's exactly what I was thinking of, except if your pedals were out too far to use the stock arm you could weld an arm onto the shaft.

    Great job, looks like it came that way.
     
  13. nonipshere
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 181

    nonipshere
    Member

    IMG_3560.JPG IMG_3566.JPG IMG_3570.JPG IMG_3572.JPG IMG_3585.JPG


    Brake pedal arm had to be shortened. Left side starter causes interference with pedal arm travel.



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