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Hot Rods Will this motor mount survive?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gordon Reed, Feb 23, 2021.

  1. If we can see the whole damn car we might be able to tell you where are you going wrong.
    Something here is either very obscure particular to your build And you’ve managed to do some thing nobody else has thought of,, Or you’ve got something wrong
     
    j hansen likes this.
  2. That motor mount as is will not survive.
     
    Okie Pete, Special Ed and alanp561 like this.
  3. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,397

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    Done a few chassis over the years and I am always amazed at what people come up with to mount a motor. If you need it that high build some boxed steel legs on which you mount the Ford motor mount biscuit. I agree, your current design will probably not survive?
     
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    pinion_angle_transmission_anle.png One simple question: Why the hell are you trying to jack the engine up in the air way too frigging high, rather than correct the pinion angle to what it should be? That doesn't make a lick of sense.
    It seems way simpler and far better in the long run to place the engine where it belongs and correct the pinion angle to what it actually should be.

    That said, the only thing I have seen with that steep of a pinion angle is a seriously lifted 4x4. Possibly some misguided 4x4 influence involved in installing the rear axle?
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2021
    mad mikey and alanp561 like this.
  5. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,535

    Doublepumper
    Member
    from WA-OR, USA

    See post #20 for the correct method.
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  6. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,612

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You have " about 5 degrees " or you have 5 degrees:confused:. Which is it?
     
  7. trollst
    Joined: Jan 27, 2012
    Posts: 2,108

    trollst
    Member

    What I'm gonna point out....I see no welding on the frame, why not make a proper mount of steel, regardless of where these guys want you to put it. I personally mount engines so the fan is centered in the rad, so if your gonna mount it that high, then at least make a proper mount. Junk isn't permitted here, neither are disguised rat rods.
     
    Special Ed likes this.
  8. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,719

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I'm just the opposite. I like motors as deep in the chassis as possible. They do create one issue; the radiator/fan alignment. But I always figure a way around that. I hate having a huge trans tunnel, and tall driveline tunnel inside, so the deeper it sits, the less tunnel needed
    This is the floor in my '39 Chev coupe. A small driveline tunnel, and flat floors up front:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    -Brent- and Budget36 like this.
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    and I like figuring out where the original engine center line was, and putting the new one right about there. It seems to work out pretty well, this way.
     
  10. Gordon Reed
    Joined: Aug 3, 2019
    Posts: 53

    Gordon Reed

    YEAH! his motor mounts look pretty big as well. is it bad that they are that high? i’m building a street rod and like the look of having my tunnel ram way up close to the same height as the front window. but i heard about bad weight distribution?


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  11. Gordon Reed
    Joined: Aug 3, 2019
    Posts: 53

    Gordon Reed

    yeah i definitely like that fuel altered look as well it just was funny that the pinion angle was off too. it helped me push in the direction of having my engine higher and a bit more radical looking. i appreciate you trying to understand where a 19 year old building a car from coming up on 100 years ago, my mind is all over with ideas and inspiration. i have a lot of life left to build cars with way lower engine mounts and perfectly set pinion angles. right now it’s all about learning the ropes and if i mess up right now then next time i change it, or i wait till something breaks lol. thanks for the response


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Mat Thrasher likes this.
  12. you can do it. it would be good to have a proper rubber mounts. you will have a very large tunnel and foot room will be tight. not my style...
     
  13. patterg2003
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 864

    patterg2003

    Here is the Spicer information on setting up drive line and the recommended angles. It is well illustrated. The Spicer information shows what many are recommending. Lowering the engine closer to the ground will lower the center of gravity for better handling.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The point is, that while your engine looks like it is setting up pretty high the pan rail is only a half inch or so above the top of the frame rail and Center line of the crank is barely above the frame rail. You engine just looks like it sits high from the sides Because the crank case is so tall in comparison to a lot of engines and maybe you could go a tad lower before the pan gets too close to the ground and maybe you can't. His centerline for his crank is a good six inches higher than yours. Meaning the bottom of that Chevy pan is right close to the top of the frame rail. That sir is what we are fussing about., The man has a rear axle that wasn't set in the chassis right an is attempting to compensate for it by raising the engine. If he were shooting for a fuel altered look he probably wouldn't even be posting until it was drivable.
     
  15. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 1,697

    Ziggster
    Member

    I kinda had the same issue when I started looking into laying out my build. I’m much older than the OP but have no previous experience with hot rods in general. For me, and I’m guessing the same for the OP, the goal was to keep the frame as low as possible to the ground. While researching traditional hot rods, I quickly learned the motor mounts for my engine (Ford flathead V8) were going to be much higher than traditional rods which were essentially flush with the top of the frame rail. In my case, I think it will be about 3” higher than the top of the frame rail. Still haven’t figured out the details yet. In the case of the OP I’m not really sure what a poly tube with steel core is, but when building structures that support heavy loads, using structures built at angles with gussets is always a good start like what @Mat Thrasher had done.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2021
    Mat Thrasher likes this.
  16. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    There's a thread on here, "Street 'n Strip W powered T Coupe", by Collin Benoit. Page 4 has images of virtually the same mounts, only used with a saddle mount. Might look at that thread and maybe even contact the guy. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  17. zz29
    Joined: Sep 7, 2017
    Posts: 258

    zz29
    Member

    Great video


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  18. Collin Benoit
    Joined: Apr 11, 2020
    Posts: 113

    Collin Benoit

    Hey guys. I’ve got a somewhat similar setup.

    IMG_8279.JPG

    Loosely based off this

    IMG_7260.JPG




    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    that old picture shows a really strong motor mount. Neat, thanks for sharing.
     
    Collin Benoit likes this.
  20. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,041

    gene-koning
    Member

    The OP motor mount looks like its mostly rubber to gain the height, and the rubber won't last very long before it splits under the load.
    If the motor needs to sit that height, then most of the mount needs to be make out of steel in such a way it won't flex. When mounting a motor with mounts like those pictured, having a rubber bushing more than an inch high is pushing the limits of rubber products available these days, and then that one inch thick rubber better have a steel sleeve keeping the distance correct.
    As far as correcting the pinion angle, that is best to be done at the rear axle. Depending on how the rear suspension is set up, there are several ways to adjust the pinion angle that work well with different suspensions systems. Gene
     
  21. Collin Benoit
    Joined: Apr 11, 2020
    Posts: 113

    Collin Benoit

    I guess I should have looked closer at the OPs photo. Didn’t realize that was all rubber!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  22. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 1,444

    trevorsworth
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Oh Jesus. I looked at this thread a month ago and that never clicked.
     
    Collin Benoit likes this.

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