The big issue these days with generators is servicing them. A rebuild isn't as simple as an alternator can be. With an alternator, replace the slip ring brushes and bearings and you're good to go as long as you don't have a bad diode or broken wire internally. A generator is more labor-intensive. While you're replacing basically the same kind of parts, you also should service the commutator and to do it right requires specialized equipment. Shops that could do this used to be common, not so much anymore. Trueing the brush surface should be done with a lathe, using abrasives like sandpaper isn't recommended as they can embed in the soft copper and seriously reduce brush life and this won't guarantee a 'true-running' surface. Cleaning out the grooves between commutator segments is an exercise in patience but really needs to be done to get full output. If the shop (or you) has the specialized generator lathe with all attachments and somebody that knows how to use it, it's a fairly quick process. But if you're doing it with a ground-down hacksaw blade by hand, expect to be at it for a considerable amount of time. The other issue is finding quality replacement voltage regulators. Much like trying to find quality points ignition parts, what's out there these days is hit-or-miss at best. Yes, you can service/repair the old-style electro-mechanical regulators but it's a fairly involved process and not something a novice is going to have much luck with, assuming they even have the needed tools. Another issue is generators simply don't produce as much output as alternators, a limit due to it's design. Most only output 30 amps at most, a few larger cars got bigger units but those are relatively rare. It's very easy to add a few additional loads to the electrical system and outstrip the capacity of the generator. By the late '50s/early '60s the OEMs knew this and that's the major reason generators disappeared. The last car I owned with a functioning generator would, under the right driving conditions, require more power than the generator could put out. After barely avoiding getting stranded in the middle of nowhere when the lights started dimming and the motor started missing (and this car had zero 'extra' electrical, everything was OEM except for halogen headlights), by switching to low beams, using the heater/wipers only intermittently and turning off the radio the generator was able to recover enough to get me home. A alternator went on within days....
Fix the generator or swap to the alternator all depends on how you want your car to be under the hood. Some are bent on OMG it has to be original and many would prefer the upgrade. As Steve said, rebuilding a generator needs a couple of steps done right to get it right. That most likely means asking your fellow Vegas Car folk to find out what local starter/generator/ alternator shop is the go to shop. As someone said they are getting harder to find. Napa shows a regulator for a 50 amp generator that costs 60.24 for the regulator. That is about the same cost as you can get a rebuilt 10-SI Delco alternator for. I'd imagine that having someone rebuild the generator will cost around 100. Like a few of the other guys I am not a fan of a one wire alternator. Easy to install but usually installed for the wrong reasons when it comes to hot rods or cruising customs. They were originally designed for farm equipment with diesel engines or tractors with very limited electrical systems. A mechanics stethoscope is pretty handy to have when you are playing a game of where is the noise coming from on a car. You touch the tip of the probe to different spots where you think the noise may be coming from to narrow down exactly where it is coming from. Such as each end of the generator frame to see if it has a bad bearing. The price is about 10 dollars at Autozone, O'Reilly's or Harbor freight a bit more for the name brand ones at Napa or other places.
I’m sorry many of you have had such s difficult time with 1-wire Delco alternators. When so many of these unit started hitting the market from China the functionality went down the tube. When the CS Delco units hit the market in the late 80’s early 90’s they were the answer to all the regular Delco alternator problems. They were smaller, had an internal fan so ran cooler, had a rear bearing so held up to higher belt tension and had a very low cut-in speed thanks to a true digital regulator. And most were 105 amps output with a great charging curve that held up well to the high heat in the engine compartment. So when I say that a rebuilders number of a 7801-SE, Is my choice to make all of you believers in one wire alternators you can understand where I am coming from. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Quite enjoyable, surprising and informative to spend some time listening to the goings on in an engine and its ancillaries with the doctors tools. Chris Sent from my SM-T515 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Finally got my butt out in the garage. On a bunch I changed out the voltage regulator. No generator light, no rattle and so far no oil. Could a faulty voltage regulator do all of that?!? ♀️ Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Taking her out for a drive and gonna check the Battery again to see where she’s at. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I don’t know about what you all think but that coil looks damaged between the arm and field. I think I screwed up when polarizing the generator at the voltage regulator and messed it up? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
What is the year, make, and model we are all talking about? And is it 6 volts or 12 volts? The more information, the better advice! You changed the regulator, did you polarize the generator? A picture of under the hood would be very helpful. And where was the smoke, oil, and rattle coming from?
Drove her around the block and the battery is registering above 14 while running and above 13 after shutting her off. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Glad to hear you got it running. My guess it is a Ford. There are two types of regulators 1)GM externally grounded field, 2) Ford internally grounded field. On Ford regulators, you remove the lead from the F terminal on regulator and touch it to the bat terminal momentarily to polarize. On GM, you simply momentarily jumper B terminal to A terminal to polarize. Sounds like you polarized incorrectly.
Yup, that has to be it. Thank you guys for all your help!!! I’m a happy girl again now that she’s running!!! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Changing or replacing or disconnecting the voltage regulator or disconnecting the battery does not require the generator to be polarized. It won't hurt anything to polarize a generator just for grins, but make sure to do it correctly. Ford generator system is different than Chrysler generator system. The resistor with discoloration is probably fine. They get hot, that's what they do. Make sure all the wire and grounds and connections are clean (shiny) and tight.
The Jalopy Journal
