I am building a 1937 Ford coupe witha 430 Lincoln engine, T5 transmmission. I used the stock 1963 Lincoln exhaust manifolds. The bellhusing is from a 1966 Ford 390, so it does not have the provision for the long snout 1963 style starter drive. so I used a starter for a 1966 390 engine. the starter wouldn't clear the exhaust manifold. So I bought a Power master 9606 starter with the infinite clocking. Fits great. The 9606 has the solenoid mounted on the starter. So now I have no way to provide a full 12 volts to the coil while cranking the engine. The stock ford starter uses a solenoid that directs 12 volt to the coil while cranking. can i mount a Ford style solenoid on the firewall and engage both solenoids at once? connect a wire from the ford solenoid to the powermaster solenoid and a cable from the starter side of the ford solenoid to the starter cable connection on the powermaster? Does it really need the 12 volts at cranking? wish i knew how to post a diagram. thanks for your help
Chances of having 12 volts while cranking is low because of the draw on the battery while cranking. What I was taught in my automotive electrical classes is that an ignition system needs a minimum of 9.6 volts to operate. So you don't need 12 volts while cranking.
He's worried about the coil being able to fire properly, when it's getting about 5 volts (dropped by both the cranking thing, and the ballast resistor). you could do the Ford relay thing, or just use a small relay, or use a diode, or just not worry about it until you notice that it's having starting problems, that you can fix by bypassing the ballast resistor.
Maybe that's why the minimum voltage or Go/no go voltage for a serviceable battery during engine cranking (or a battery load test) is 9.6 volts.
but of course that specific voltage doesn't really mean much in the real world....it either starts, or it doesn't.
This^^^^ He could add a single wire from the starter terminal to the coil with a diode to prevent the solenoid being activated by the engine running. But a Ford solenoid as mentioned [and the starter bridged] is a better solution.
If you don't want the huge ugly ford relay, you can use a small Bosch type relay, just connect the coil to ground and the S wire that goes from the ignition switch to the starter. And connect the positive side of the coil to the C terminal, and battery power to the NO terminal.
or get a diode, pre wired, just connect it according to the instructions https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10038/10002/-1
I have a Buick that's had a toggle switch under the dash for about 40 years- 12v to coil for starting.
Good lord, a simple hidden push button or toggle switch could run 12 v to the coil while cranking. Think outside the frigging box. A Ford solenoid as Goldmountain suggested is inexpensive and simple. Truth be known you probably already have one sitting there. All you have to do is take the solenoid wire off the micky mouse starter and put it on the Ford Solenoid and make a jumper bar out of a copper wire terminal to jump from the S post on the solenoid to the battery post on it. Mimilan drew the diagram in post 9. That is the exact same thing we do putting a Ford Solenoid on a Chevy starter that has hot start issues. That is the simple way and you may not have to buy anything except a copper terminal that works better than a wire. Just figure out the distance from the center of the battery post on the starter solenoid to the S post, flatten the cable end of the terminal and drill a hole and then dress the end of the piece up a bit and install it. If you don't want to install a Ford Solenoid, the switch under the dash would be real simple.