Hot Rods The all inclusive,almighty Y block thread

OH, You got that RIGHT! I just don't know how to do it correctly

 

Yes, I was looking into this last year as I have a set of non-posted G heads and chickened out of drilling them.
Guess I should have said that at first and not the "Micky mouse" thing

 

While I'm here, I'm putting together another 292 and had an older thread about degreeing the cam, maybe it would be better to have any info on this thread so here goes.
When installing the Comp Cams cam I have to "retard" the cam 6* to get the 108* center line called for. I chatted with their tech guy and he was not much help saying that this is "odd but anything can happen with a custom ground cam". And, install the engine and see how it runs...
So let me give you some spec on the cam, Gross lift .471 both I &E duration @.015 tappet lift 261 I & 267 E Lobe lift .3140 both I&E LSA 108*
I have checked my process three times and it seems to have to be 6* retarded.

 

"Fly it and watch it", eh? Jeeze.

Now I know why smart guys always degree a cam before closing it up, even a stock one.

 

Yea, this is the first time I have gone to the trouble, we'll see where it leads.

 

Maybe this will help some questions https://www.eatonbalancing.com/https://www.eatonbalancing.com/

 

Thanks, just read the three articles on cam degreeing. I guess I will check the exhaust timing.
Over on the Y block forever page one guy said they have found some cam manufactures are grinding cams incorrectly and Comp Cams is one of them.

 

This was pre rebuild, 1000 mile road trip. Had to pop a litre or two of oil in a day. No problems now though.

 

So some have made some suggestions about what I should check and recheck, this is what I have come up with.
rechecking the center line on #1 Intake it is 108.75*
I checked #1 Exhaust that is 107*
I checked #6 Intake that is 108.5*
I checked #6 Exhaust that is 108*

Other stuff I checked:
Cam card says Intake should open .050" at 4* BTDC Actual is 2* BTDC for #1 1.5* for #6
card says Exhaust should open .050' at 44* BBDC Actual is 42.5* BBDC for #1 42* for #6
Lobe lift for intake & Exhaust should be .314" Actual for #1 intake is .312" and intake on #6 .315" is Exhaust on #1 is .317" and Exhaust on #6 is .311"
I just checked the lobe lift as I was in there with an dial indicator.
So, if I'm thinking right I should advance the cam 2* to get the opening times better and maybe another 2* to allow for some timing set wear. As it is at 6* retarded now, I should go back to 2* retarted.
Thoughts?

 

Is this the Romac or Rollmaster timing set? As I recall they have 9 keyways for the Y-Block.

The +8° keyway (for example) is only +4° at the camshaft itself. Maybe you know this already, some may be unclear on this. Camshaft turns at 1/2 speed relative to crankshaft.

 

Truck, Thanks good point. This is the rollmaster timing set and in the directions it says each key way is 2* now if that is 2* of cam or 2* of crank I don't know.

I hope the OP does not mind that I'm taking so much of this thread to solve my problem. If so, sorry I was thinking that talking about cam timing on his Y block thread would help the Y block community.

 

That's corrosion prevention.

 

I have been working on a 312 for some time, but I have been trying to figure out what year it is and what vehicle it may have came out of.
I was told it came out of a 1956 Ford truck, but trucks did not come with a 312 right?

The numbers are ECZ-6015-C (block)
ECZ-C (Heads)
ECZ-9425-B (intake)

This motor did have the rear sump oil pan, the straight up thermostat housing, and the water pump that mounted the fan up higher.

It does have the Vacuum and Mechanical advance distributor (1960).
Any help on year and possible vehicle it came from would be great.
Thanks

Sent from my XP8800 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Justin, according to ford-y-block.com, you have a 57 312 short block and 1956 heads. Your heads have 1.78 intake valves vs. 1.925 of the 57 G heads. your intake is the large base manifold that will accommodate 57-up carburetors, not the Holley 4000 Teapot of 55-56. Nominal cc for your heads is 72cc. G heads have nominal 69cc chambers, but both heads usually miss the nominal mark (bigger, not smaller). To my knowledge, the 312 was not used in trucks.

 

picked up a forged steel crank over the weekend.

i have a question about posted heads. was there a post above every combustion chamber? or just the two that you can spot through the water passages

 

good question, you would think to get the benefit you would need the support for each chamber.

 

I've only seen each head posted in 2 locations.

 

I have only seen in two places also but are the others posted also but just not have a hole to stick a finger in to feel for or see it? I don't know I don't have a head with me to look at. I guess there could be other features inside the head that gives the needed support.

 

Hoping to make the Y Block guys proud!

 

WOW!

 

Well done, Sir.

 

This picture I believe is from 1963 or 1964 and I have what is left of this Jalopy in my garage and I am trying to save it from going away totally...I was very blessed and I was able to talk to the fellow in the car who built it in 1963...he told me he ran a 312 hooked to the original 3 speed transmission...(I am a real newbie since I have not really worked on a vintage Ford since the 1970s when I tried to save a 1937 Ford coupe).....my question is what is a good price for a running 312??

I have a line on a 325 Ford and 3 speed out of a Ford something...not sure what to do...

Any insight would be great...

MikeC

 

WAG $300 to $500, depending location. That might be on the high side.

 

NICE-NICE-NICE !!!

 

it appears you only have to post two cylinders, those cylinders that are fed by the upper intake port. on the cylinders fed by the lower intake port, the port wall stiffens up the head.

 

WOW just WOW nice real nice.

 

A 292 can take more pounding and for the most part a better engine. A 272 can be bored to 292 and have you covered that way too.

 

That's a good point, there's somethin' somethin' that sticks in my mind, about cracked web mains that is specific to the 312 . The rebuilders tend to look for 272 or 292 for that reason.

 

Yes the mains can crack around the bolt holes, more so in the 312 because the 312 crank has larger mains. But I had a 292 that was cracked like that also.

 

There was an error in the shop manual in 1956 for the torque specification that probably didn't help. The correct torque is 95 lbs, not 120 lbs.

J. Mummert addresses that, and other issues in "Y Block Assembly Errors"

292 & 312 Main cap bolts.

When Ford designed the 312 they made the main caps taller than the 292 cap, anticipating added load. The cap for the 312 rear main was left the 292 height, to clear the rear main seal holder and the oil pan rail. This makes it possible to install any of the longer main cap bolts from the front 4 main caps in the rear cap, where they could bottom out during tightening. Some blocks are drilled deep enough to accept the longer bolts in the rear cap. There have been a few instances where the rear main area of a 312 cracked during assembly. This was probably caused by installing the incorrect bolts in the rear cap. Check the 1971 Popular Hotrodding series of articles, this occurred when they assembled their first 312 requiring a replacement block.