I've used Rust-Oleum black paint on frames and chassis and brushed it on. Very satisfied with the results. I'm building a 1937 ford coupe dirt track tribute car, don't need or want a fancy paint job. Anyone used the Rust-Oleum paint and sprayed it on? Thanks Henry
I use 7777 satin black on frame's, an off-road bumper's etc, reduce with urethane reducer till your comfortable with spray out... Doesn't take a lot...
I’ve used it. Looks ok. I used an alkyd equipment enamel with a hardener, I liked it much better. Cost around $15 more a gallon to use it. there are more color choices available
The headlights are rattle can and the body and grill shell are rolled on with a foam roller When I first sprayed them The black is also rattle can
Inside of frame satin black , outside of rails gloss black . Rolled on with 4 inch foam roller , spent time sanding with 400, 800, wet.... then compound and a polish . Did two rods this way with satin black both came out good , will do this one a two tone gloss . Time consuming but very pleased with outcome and durability ..... and cost cause I’m CHEAP ‼️
Here yah go 8 years ago painted my truck with a similar paint. This is Home Hardware Rust Coat tintable enamel. Mixed with generic acrylic enamel hardener, reduced with standard urethane grade reducer and shot on with a gravity flow gun at 45 psi and 1.4 tip. Good enuff for my needs, as good as nason or Omni acrylic solid color enamel.
how about trying this...Latex house paint thinned with water and sprayed on your race car. I have painted a couple cars with Velspar satin thinned with water and had great results $35.95 a gallon and water clean up, no need to mask or wear a suit...takes a while to harden up but it will last...someone crashed my truck and I had to put some fenders, running boards, new bed, tailgate, and cab rear fixing on it. 4years aged and it went on with no tell tale lines...great. I have even gloss cleared over it on the dash and firewall. I did use rustoleum satin black on the chassis, daily driver choice for sure. easy to touch up
Oh geeeez, I think there's a whole bunch of guys here on the HAMB that just went apoplectic after reading this! You can't do that!
I put a bunch on miles on my coupe ( close to 10,000 miles a year) with the local farm store brand of oil based paint. I'm not a wax kind of guy, I'm a get in and drive it, wash it if it really looks bad kind of guy. I've done several vehicles with this paint. Don't over thin it, if you thin it too much, it won't hold up worth a crap. It takes days to completely dry, weeks if you intend to do any sanding. Be sure you add the hardener, bugs hitting it at highway speeds will chip it without the hardener. My stuff sits outside. The paint looks really good for the first 2-3 years. Then it starts to fade. It chips more easily as the paint gets older. After 4-5 years its starting to look pretty rough, just about right for an old dirt track car... For me, the 5 year time line is OK, I hate body work and tend to quit before its really done. When the paint starts to look bad, I just redo the body work, and paint it again. Over the last couple of years, all paint has changed for the worse. The cheap Rustoleum kind of paint has really been effected. It doesn't seem to hold up nearly as long as it used to. This last time I redid the body on the coupe (I had rust issues I had to fix), I broke down and did acrylic enamel paint. The car is two different colors. Two quarts (one of each) of color, the needed hardeners, thinner, and sealer at my buddy's body shop cost was $285. I don't intend to paint this car again. Gene
It doesnt normally take days to dry, it takes a few weeks to cure. If you use a hardener its dried and cured much quicker. This type of paint has its limits, but so does cheap automotive paints too.
I ran roundy round cars for years...nothing but yellow Rust-oleum paint and I thinned it and that was it...looked great...probably gonna do the same thing on my current hot rod (a vintage roundy round car)... MikeC
The way elkyd enamel would have been sprayed back in the 50s would have been to put the gallon of paint on a hotplate and warm it up until it got to the viscosity for spraying. No reduction no harder.
If you are wanting satin, John Deere Blitz Black is great, durable, and cheap. Not my truck but this is painted in Blitz Black
https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/118083/idiots-guide-rollering-rustoleum Pretty sure you don't need to register to read that........
You know, if foam rollers had been available back in the 40's and 50's, I just bet that would have been the way a lot of paint jobs would have been applied. It looks like you built your car to drive and I can't see a thing wrong with anything you've done with the paint. If I ever get mine to where it's going to get painted, that's the way I'm going.
Thankyou all for your help. This is a tribute car to my 3 brothers and I. Going to have all our names on it, 2 of them are gone now.
I rattle canned this entire car with the satin and later compounded and waxed it. I have people ask if it’s the original paint and a garage find
I often hear of Rust Oleum paint on this sight and often think of my story of this famous paint. This was in the late 50s and I was working on my 39 Buick coupe, newly married and living in a small 2nd floor apartment with no space to work on my car. A friend told me about a man he knew, not far from our apt that had property where I could work on the Buick. WE met the old man and he was just a prince of a man, and was happy to have me come to his FARM as he called it to fix my Buick. But it was just property. no farm, no animals, and we often talked about his life. He was a black man, at a time when few were wealthy and could afford property in a Pittsburgh suburb, and he had many acres. He told me about has work along the Ohio River and his dealing with the ever-present rust where he worked. He developed some of his ideas and came up with a Paint that used fish oil and worked well with steel and the ever present rust problems. He showed me some of his early samplings and early on realized that he did not have the money to sell his product to the world around him, so he hired an attorney who was able the find a buyer for his idea and was paid a good Dollar Figure and Bill was made a wealthy man, was able to buy his farm and live a happy life. He became a close friend, and was always happy to see me come out to repair the Buick. I lost touch with him when I moved down south in 59, driving the Buick to Georgia. But when I hear of Rust Oleum paint I think of Bill, and his idea and how much his idea is still used today long after He is long gone. I can only describe him as a very gentle man who was a friend when I really needed a friend. Iceman
I painted my Merc. with Rustolean Paint & it Lasted about 8 years I have to do it again, & I will Shoot it again. Just my 3.5 cents Live Learn & Die a Fool
Sure I've used it and also Trem-Clad. Brush painted my engine bay with gloss black and just cut it with varsol to cut down on brush marks.
Like old school alkyd the overspray will be wet. It will stick to everything that isn't covered, and be sticky for a day or more. If you don't want overspray on it, cover it. Gonna spray outside? Cover the ground, but if it's breezy you'll have neighbor trouble assuming you have neighbors. That's all I got for ya.
I rollered this wagon over ten years ago with thinned Rustoleum Antique White. Six coats with a wet sand and wheel buff afterwards. Still looks good but it is garage-kept.
Never painted a body with Rustoleum, but I have brushed, rolled, and sprayed frames, and floors inside and out with it and it's all I use now. Holds up great, and easy to use. Plus it's cheap.