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Technical The upholstery thread to end all threads

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Jan 5, 2021.

  1. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 3,360

    topher5150
    Member

    I want to do my panels in vinyl and fabric. Could I just overlap the materials and cover it with trim without sewing it?
     
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  2. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    Look up the “no sew door panels” thread by Skipstitch. It should be similar to what you wanna do.
     
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  3. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

  4. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Got a question for anyone with experience:

    I bought some pleated vinyl, cheap heat seamed stuff to experiment with, unless I actually manage to pull it off, for my seat. Looked pretty flat so I sewed half inch foam behind it. Really puffed it out, looks pretty good. However, this also shorted the width and it's now 3-4 inches too narrow for my seat back. I can almost stretch it out but it flattens the pleats back out. Better to sew a non pleated section in the middle I'm thinking.

    But, what I am wondering is when I sew the piping and perimeter material on, is that going to flatten the pleats back out and make the width longer again, or is the piping going to be wavy from the pleats?

    20210304_090120_resized.jpg
     
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  5. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,647

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looks like a do-over to me. ;)
     
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  6. Blowby, I'm a noob but if you search the lucky needle calculating perfect pleats you might find some help. His YouTube videos have been really helpful.
     
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  7. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    First, sew across your piece (on both ends) of your pleats. This will determine your finished width. The welt won`t be wavy when sewn on. .
     
  8. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Thanks for the advice guys. Well I'm no Tony Nancy but I'm getting it done. Far from perfect, just good enough for my heap. Still working out the wrinkles before I staple it to the back. Need to get it in the sun too and see how that helps.

    BTW, my machine is a White Rotary circa 1920s. I adapted a variable speed drill motor and big pulley so it goes nice and slow. No special foot for the piping, tough going but it sews pretty reliably. I've done a couple of motorcycle seats in the past but getting a car seat through the small throat ain't easy.

    Next winter storm I'll do the bottom.
    seat.jpg

    20210310_081222_resized.jpg
     
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  9. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    Good job!
     
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  10. Nice work. The one thing I would say, to try and impart some constructive criticism, is pay attention to where your seams are located. Simple stuff like that make a huge difference in how "professional or homemade" something appears. Something as simple as making sure the seam on the top boxing is centred on the back would go a long way to improving the overall look.
     
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  11. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Very true. That is centered, btw, within a half inch, must be the photo. I will also have to make sure the bottom pleats line up with the back pleats.

    Anyone who thinks upholstery is easy is nuts. I hate sewing, and that's the easiest part. Predicting where the seams will end up, for a novice, is another story. Be glad when it's over. Since I've done everything else on this truck from driveline to paint I figures I might as well do this.
     
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  12. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,293

    loudbang
    Member


    Looks pretty darn good for a beginner :rolleyes:
     
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  13. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,772

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    Is that a regular treadle sewing machine or was it originally for upholstery? I have heard others using a treadle machine for upholstery but was not sure how well it would work. I have a few collected over the years, I think one of them is a White.

    Nice job on the seat back. I have never considered attempting doing upholstery work but I would be more than happy if my end result would be like what you have done.
     
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  14. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    I don't know to be honest. It had an electric motor when I got it but it too had been adapted. I doubt it was made for upholstery but it's proven very tough as I have jammed it several times and broken needles without damage. I started out this project with a newer Singer machine I was given with more bells and whistles but it couldn't handle layers of vinyl and stripped the plastic gears inside.

    I bought the White for $25 I think, years ago but I think they're probably still cheap.
     
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  15. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    It's neat, if nothing else.
     
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  16. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    OK, I finally made some progress. I hate to do anything halfway, it’s a sickness.

    Today, I finished the upholstery table. The sewing machine is on wheels and I can easily roll it out to give you more room to work. I liked one of the tables someone posted early on in the thread, sorry I forget who it was. I copied his table. I liked the idea of storage under the table.

    The center piece is melamine and it pops out. That way I can turn it over when the top gets too bad. It’s a heavy mutha. I had to build it in modular pieces, so I could get it up the stairs. It will be staying with the house if I ever move. Thanks to @guthriesmith for helping me unload all the materials. I tricked him into it. Never knew what hit him.
    2B02EFEB-7B62-4E17-B6D8-0F551344C7C1.jpeg

    The table fits under the other window if I decide to turn it. For now it’s out of the way, as much as it can be.
     
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  17. A 2 B
    Joined: Dec 2, 2015
    Posts: 498

    A 2 B
    Member
    from SW Ontario

    That is an awesome workspace! Turned out great! I need to start thinking about my need for a clean, uncluttered, dedicated layout/work area too. I've got about 5 months of recovery time left to at least come up with a good layout plan. Thanks for the inspiration!:)
     
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  18. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    Thanks. It was just a parts stash 3 months ago.
     
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  19. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    So, I am slowing getting my crap together. I like to have everything the way I like it before I start. I went by and picked up the non-bleeding upholstery pens and some practice fabric. The local supplier has end of the roll drops for $5 each. Some are almost a full yard. I picked colors I could use on small projects around here.

    Getting closer.
    715AEDD4-2C2F-404E-B5CB-D8877956529D.jpeg
     
  20. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    People think all they need is a sewing machine , thread and a pair of scissors. Material and a little foam. But they need so much more once they get started. For the most part, that`s the stuff you can`t get locally.
     
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  21. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    I have been collecting stuff for weeks, trying to forecast what would be needed. Sewing machine oil, thread, bobbins, sewing machine manual, servo motor, needles, shears, practice fabric and upholstery pens. I’m sure there is more.

    I just want to be able to start and focus. Not be stopping to go source stuff...
     
  22. Cool Root
     
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  23. If you don't have one get a steel ruler that is at least 56".

    Sent from my SM-G950W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  24. So I just read this entire thread, and am wondering about how to go about replacing a seat spring assembly with layered density's of foam? The seat spring assemblies are pretty worn in my 39 and id like to take some bounce out of it as well. any pointers on how to go about using Foam to replace the original springs in the seat?
     
  25. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    I think they reuse the springs, just repair them with tie wires and cover with new foam. I'll be following this.
     
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  26. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,590

    Roothawg
    Member

    I have a 6' steel ruler, but I would like to get one with decimals. Not sure if one exists. I'm not a fraction guy...
     
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  27. I have helped with a couple roadster seats where the springs have been removed. In my GMC I am only using the base frame and backrest frame. The base gets plywood with woven strapping under your ass. Then the foam gets glued on and shaped with an electric knife. The back uses the factory mounts adapted to plywood then foam
     
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  28. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,536

    continentaljohn
    Member

    Great looking shop root and looks like a laboratory and wicked clean
     
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  29. I was all ready to buy a machine and learn how to sew....then I found a new upholstery shop locally. Guy does nice work and is reasonable so I'm going to hold off....
    Got my seat back today!
    0319211615.jpg
     
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  30. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    This has foam out of a 80`s pickup. Back and bottom. Plywood base with furniture webbing. IMG_20201207_0002.jpg No springs. It`s an original 40 Ford seat. 2nd, 3rd and 4th row van seats have good foam as well. Engineer`s have spent years perfecting the foam for comfort and durability. Why not use what they have learned.
     

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