Got some pictures to share with me and give me some idea. Now there is no oil filter and I don’t think that’s a good idea.... Stock had a big bucket on on of the heads Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
It sure won't stay this way when it gets in what ever I put it in but this is the way the filter was mounted on my flathead when it was in the old Jeep wagon that it was in for years. The exhaust was a mess beyond belief. I am planning on getting a way more attractive filter housing and mounting it on the firewall. That is going to be a "round to it" item though. Unless one just falls in my lap for pocket change before hand I'll wait on that.
Stock oil filter isn't full pressure and doesn't mount well on finned aluminum heads so I eliminated the filter on my coupe. My coupe won't see a huge amount of miles so will just change the oil a little more often, on the road now with a little over 200 miles on it now. Probably less than 1500-2000 miles a year so just an extra oil change a year.
Still undecided if I’ll actually use the one I refurbished that came with my engine, but if I do, it for sure will not be mounted to the engine.
I moved mine from the head mounted style to the firewall. I scored the flat brackets and can from someone. Had the lines made up at the local auto parts store.
No oil filter on this car. The `55 Chevy 265 V8 didn't come with an oil filter. All the air cooled Volkswagens did not have an oil filter, and the two airplanes I owned did not have oil filters. The later Ford flatheads didn't filter 100% of the oil, just some of it got pumped through the filter, then drained into the oil pan. We changed the oil in airplanes every 30 hours. It came out looking like honey, and then got used in cars.
BB- You could use one of your quart sized Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish cans and plumb it up on the dash.
Like a couple of others here, I eliminated my filter. I don't see a lot of miles on mine, and I just change the oil more often.
Horses for courses, change your oil more often, move what you have or adapt something else. It is up to you Not exactly the question you asked but I elected to go with a remote filter here is what I did with mine. The housing is a Silco unit I picked up at a swap meet (it is one of the old "toilet roll types"). Although many have used them as is it just doesn't seam right to me to have your oil running through dunny roll. So with some help from a few good friends ...........The holes in the block were retapped (and a block off grub screw fitted to redirect the oil as per Mike Davidsons book) to fit the remote filter. The original Silco filter and a sandwich plate adaptor were removed. A Z418 oil filter will screw straight onto the original base. My good mate Phil machined a spacer adaptor that is grub screwed onto the base and then the Silco housing becomes a cover held on by grub screws to the adaptor plate. All very clean and nice. Expanded view Finished product on the firewall Here is a better picture of it on the firewall
I always make sure I have a magnetic oil pan drain plug. Use one of the super strong mini magnets and epoxy it to the stock FH drain plug. Will help to grab any metallic particles circulating around in the oil.
That's a beautiful engine. But, you're asking it to withstand way more stress than Henry ever id. Henry's excuse was the cost. I'd want a filter. JMTC.
I wrestled with the filter idea during construction. It sure wasn't the cost that deterred me. H&H builds a lot of hot flatheads. They sold me most of the components for mine and Mike said no filter. He wasn't fond of the 95% filtration and but preferred that over the other option which he said was mostly piece of mind and little insurance. He said no filter will remind you to change the oil often and not get comfortable with a beehive hanging on the firewall thinking that is protecting you.
few years back i cut a stock oil filter at the cover in the front then down to about an inch from the curled under bottom on each side... i J B Welded a fourryn remote filter inside, welded the cover to the face... when done just take off the top nut, slide off the top half and unscrew the filter... never used it, where it went ?
I've got a what I think was a Chevy "Blue Flame" FRAM filter housing that has flat mounting tabs on the rear that will lend itself to firewall or remote mounting ...... will need to re-plumb it accordingly. Online photo of the type.
Oil filtering is NOT required on street pavement driven flatheads. Waste of time and money. Just an eyesore in the engine compartment. If you have to absolutely have oil filtering, make the simple mod to the block and go with full pressure filtering.. Mount the can remotely under the car out of sight.
any more details on how this one is done, or is it done like all the other systems, just longer hoses ?
@Pete1 , I always enjoy your sharing your old wisdom, but this time...i disagree. Can not be anything wrong with having an oil filter, 95%, or stock, it just cant be bad either way.
The 95% is this, military motors, and some canadian motors, have it from new. If you look at the oil port area of a 59 block you will see a raised cast circle inboard of the other 2 normal 1/4" ports. Thats how far the oil galley is cast in the block. So, what they do is drill a new port in that raised circle, this will be the new feed, or input line, then you drill out the side, or horizontal port , left side, to the size for a 3/8" pipe thread. when that hole is opened up you go in the horizontal port and tap threads in there so you can install a grub screw to stop the flow of oil coming from the pump. now, when that is pluged, your new port on the left is coming from the pump, then going to a modern spin on filter, then back into the new port you drilled in the circle. its called 95% because some oil gets to the rear cam bearing without going thru the filter. Lots of info on this if you do a search, and again, the military motors had this too
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