It's hard to tell from the video, but that banger sounds kinda sluggish. Have you tried moving the spark advance lever around a bit to see if you can get better throttle response? And it goes without saying, if you have straight water in the radiator, be sure and watch the weather. If it looks like we are headed for the deep freeze again, be sure to drain it!
That video was taken right after it started the first time. I let it warm up fully after that and tinkered with some of the adjustments. I think it is still idling a touch fast but I was able to improve the throttle response by adjusting the advance lever. I think I need to play with the idle screw on the carb. 10-4 on draining it if we get another cold snap! I saw where someone forgot to drain his flathead V8, there was oil and water all over his floor.
So from what you can tell so far, there isn't any cracks in the block and the banger is good to go for awhile?
Yep, it’s running smooth, no more smoke and no funny noises. I think it’s golden! The water in the radiator is NASTY now that it’s circulated hot, I need to disconnect the lower pipe and let it drain. Don’t want to use the petcock because there’s rust flakes that will clog it. I also saw a spider floating in there.
Get some Vinegar and add a generous amount to the cooling system after you flush out all the nasty crap. Run it for several hours and several heat cycles, drain and flush, add antifreeze and water, good to go! The vinegar is very mild, and shouldn't hurt seals and such on the water pump. If it does, they were pre-destined to fail anyway.
Nice! Looks/sounds like you are getting it sorted. So awesome, you be ripping around in no time now! Those little engines are pretty amazing how tough they are. Good job!!
Is the linkage something you can heat and bend, or replace a small section of? Get that engine happy and keep moving toward a point where it can start, run, drive and stop. Adjust timing, idle mixture and idle speed then lube and check/adjust travel of all manual controls (throttle, advance, choke). It should be able to idle for quite a while without overheating now, but may need an electric house fan in front for a bit of airflow (and push any fumes from warming up out of the garage). Glad you are moving forward! Post a link to the site to help the next guy.
I think it would be too short if bent to clear the firewall. I could always just notch the firewall to clear it, which is what Henry did in ‘28. My firewall has already been cut to clear a bigger steering column at some point so I’m not super opposed to doing that, but I do wonder if the lower pedal position would be more comfortable. The site with the info is here: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/throttlecontrols.htm
@RMONTY Here's a video better showing the throttle response. So far it has fired up first try every time and will run for as long as I let it, and sounds better each time, so I guess the engine is pretty much ready to rock. It will get an oil change and coolant flush before it sees the road again, but that is small potatoes. I made a list of everything I need to get the car to drive on the road and it is just 7 items.
yes, lots of times an old motor will be happier after a few miles with a load on it, and an oil change. they seem to "wake up"
Another trick that an old timer told me almost 50 years ago is to add Tide clothes washing powder to the radiator and run it through several head/cool cycles. Flush out 'til water is clear and no suds. I never tried it so this is only hearsay as far as I'm concerned, but might help to clean out the cooling system. I don't see what it could hurt.
original model A water pumps had only the old lead impregnated rope seal, and then if you over grease the pump its quite common to have lots of oil/grease looking stuff in the radiator. rinse it out as best you can, and get the new stainless pump shaft with a seal
Decatur swap meet was kind of underwhelming, but I was able to meet up with Randy and make some new friends. I got a great throttle control assembly which, while I was carrying around, a guy flagged me down and asked if I was looking for Model A parts. He turned out to be a great dude and gave me a bunch of stuff, like body blocks and most of a coupe seat. I did not get the metal frame for the seat but I got the cushions (plus an extra) and wood bits. I figure I can make something work out of this and if not, well, free is free. I also got some door handles. The guy I bought them from said they were '32 but I'm not sure. These look nice but I think I will have to cut the shanks down to be able to use them.
Looks like you scored! I bet a seat can be made out of what you got. And I have a hookup on the upholstery stuff. A friend of mine just got an old Singer walking foot machine. Here is the first attempt at sewing through foam and some lightweight vinyl. This could be a good friend to keep around!
I got a matching pair of these. I like them. The shank seems to be way too long for my A’s latch mechanism. I think whatever these came off of had a handle on the inside that attached to the other end of the shaft. I don't see why I couldn't just cut them down.
Also, there was a dude with a Columbia 2 speed for $700 up there. I could have bought it, but I don't think I could have afforded to restore it. If anyone is wanting one, let me know, I took down his number. I think that is a good price.
The square drive end is indexed to the handle position. Before you cut them down check both to see if the clocking of the handle would work. The one in your picture should work - hopefully the other matches. Below is a picture of the door handle from my '34 pickup. See how the top flat is aligned to the handle? Yours might be 45 degrees off, leading to the handle not being flat when the door is closed... I do have a third matcher to the one in your picture that may have already been cut down. I think Tudors and Coupes of this vintages used the same door latch mechanism as a pickup so you need at least an 1-5/16" long drive stub. If you need a third one, let me know and I'm happy to send it your way at no cost...
Thanks, that measurement is super valuable. I'll cut them down to 1 1/2" and trim it from there. The shaft is square to the handle on both handles. The second handle is missing the screw plate unfortunately but for what I paid I'm not going to complain, I will find something that works. But of course, this is a distraction! Door handles are OPTIONAL. As far as getting the car on the road, all I need now is the fuel shutoff, line, a fuel gauge, and to bend the shift lever down (since I wasn't able to find a 30-31 lever by itself at the swap meet, I will just heat and bend the one I have).
You said the Decatur swap meet was underwhelming, I hate to hear this but it makes my decision easier to swallow. I was originally planning on going to the swap meet, but with the weather we had, I was out of water for 12 days and without power for 5 days. We spent last weekend in Texas at girlfriend's daughters house. It just seemed too much to go through all that and things haven't really returned to normal and then go to the swap meet. We would have to drive 5 hours to get there. Like I said, I really wanted to go but I would hate to have been disappointed after driving all that way. Unfortunately last I heard, Pate swapmeet has been cancelled
That cold snap was a bitch, I hope you didn't end up having to repair any pipes or water damage. Honestly, if not for having made some friends up there, it wouldn't have been worth the trip. Never in a million years would I have driven 5 hours for it. Probably half the vendor spaces were empty and what was there was largely garage sale stuff, and a lot of it had been rained on. It was slim pickings for sure, even for non-A stuff. There were some great deals on cars up there, like a pretty solid Hudson Hornet rolling shell for $1200, but useful parts were scarce. The good news is that it sounds like Pate is still on for April!
To tell the truth that was in the back of my mind the whole time, if I made it up there I was going to try to meet you with you and Rmonty! And if I drove up there, my mom is 40 minutes away. Luckily I shut off and drained all my water before the storm hit, so when we finally got water last night, all pipes were okay.
Installed the new pedal assembly - works great - found the old pedal amongst the grime collected in the front crossmember. Bad news: now hearing a possible knock coming from the motor. Might just be belt noise or something else but it is definitely tappy. I'm having trouble pinning it down with my ear.
I have really been enjoying this thread. Very awesome that a guy relatively near co es over to help. Keep at it. The videos are great. Rmonty is a stand up dude
Bummer. Did you use the stick to the ear trick? You know, cut off a wood broom handle, hold to your ear and then to the motor to isolate the knock.
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