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Projects '23 Ford Roadster build aka The Incredible Hulk

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Paul, Feb 22, 2018.

  1. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,276

    loudbang
    Member

    EXCELLENT work. :)
     
    Stogy and Paul like this.
  2. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    Bent up some more tin today
    The idea was to stiffen up the B pillar passenger side for the door latch
    Then it just ran all the way around.
    It's temporarily pop riveted in place for now,
    still need to access the lower body to finish ironing out the body.

    PXL_20201205_194302345.jpg PXL_20201205_194559148.jpg PXL_20201205_200617247.jpg PXL_20201205_234054189.jpg PXL_20201206_003724051.jpg PXL_20201206_014928293.jpg PXL_20201206_015052605.jpg PXL_20201206_015113318.jpg
     
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  3. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Dang you're good at this tin bending stuff!
     
    OFT, cactus1, loudbang and 3 others like this.
  4. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    That looks amazing!

    Ya could just run I bare metal with 127 coats of clear!
     
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  5. Oh, I'll give it my best. Acquiring skills and tools now. I've just never built a vintage hot rod so I'll be skiing that steep learning curve. Looking forward to it. Thanks for the encouragement!
     
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  6. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 1,099

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    That floor looks so good! excellent work
     
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  7. Looks great Paul !
     
    Stogy, loudbang and Paul like this.
  8. I dunno Paul. You keep raising the bar on this build. Just impressive work again. Great attention to detail and perfection.
     
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  9. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    Took a week off from the Hulk build,
    so nothing much to update.
    I did a little more rearranging in the cab though, trying to get the ergonomics a bit more cohesive.
    Moved the mock-up seat up and back as far as practical, about 1-1/2" up and 1" back, and extended the column 3".
    No pictures of the column fix but it was essentially the same as when I shortened it earlier in the thread.
    I cut and reused the sleeve and bought a new upper shaft to cut and weld in, I had saved the remains of the old jacket and welded a section back on.
    Been wanting to build a dash, 'got some images floating in my head.. was wanting to use Stewart Warner Twin Blue gauges but seems the prices have gone crazy there, I do have a couple alternate sets to fill the holes though, green lines and big block Stewart Warner's, and could swap them out when the twin blues come together.

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    PXL_20201215_171959328~2.jpg PXL_20201215_171916159.jpg
    PXL_20201215_184534161~2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2020
    The 39 guy, bct, Stogy and 14 others like this.
  10. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,798

    Marty Strode
    Member

    img20201215_0030.jpg Paul, I think I have an extra 49-50 guage cluster. I used Moon, by Classic, in my Track Roadster.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2020
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  11. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    That looks very clean, I like it's business like simplicity
     
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  12. Is what you wound up with stretched at all from a typical fiberglass T bucket body? Or same dimension at 52” overall firewall to rear of bucket?
     
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  13. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    Where did you find your "typical" dimensions?
    Every place I looked I came up with something different.
    Mine ended up right at 54" from firewall to rear of bucket.
    It was a matter of compromise, I wanted more room than a stock '23 roadster but I'm not keen on the stretched look.
     
  14. Thanks Paul..I was taking the measurement from Speedways Fiberglass T bucket. But yeah they seem to be all over the map.
     
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  15. Part Timer
    Joined: Mar 24, 2020
    Posts: 42

    Part Timer
    Member

    Hi Paul

    Wanted to thank you for the inspiring build thread. So well done. Looking forward to future posts when you get back on the Incredible Hulk!

    Mike


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  16. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    Thanks Mike,
    Soon.. I hope to be back on it soon..
     
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  17. Part Timer
    Joined: Mar 24, 2020
    Posts: 42

    Part Timer
    Member

    Good to hear Paul. Hope you’re well.

    Mike


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  18. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    started working on the gas tank
    with the little turtle deck channeled over the frame left little room for a tank.
    a custom built tank was in order.
    I mapped out the available space and drew up a plan
    it was to be a thin wedge shape, about 26" long by 22" wide
    and 7-1/4" tall at the front and 5" tall at the rear
    it had to have a recess for the differential at full suspension compression
    and being mostly flat bottomed I chose to use a sump at the rear.
    I had made a sheet metal brake to bolt to my welding table to give the tank rounded corners
    so I cut and bent two pieces of sheet, one for the top and one for the bottom that will have lap joints joining the two.
    I clamped and tacked the two together using the cardboard pattern

    PXL_20210204_223305654.jpg PXL_20210211_224953166.jpg PXL_20210211_235149357.jpg PXL_20210211_235739046.jpg
     
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  19. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    then cut two pieces a little larger than the pattern
    cut a couple pieces of plywood to use as a buck,
    clamped them together with a piece of sheet between them
    and bent the edges over the buck
    test fit

    PXL_20210213_220433043.jpg PXL_20210213_220928837.jpg PXL_20210213_225205320.jpg PXL_20210213_230757330.jpg PXL_20210214_000947641.jpg
     
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  20. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    fabbed up the recess for the differential
    and welded it in.

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  21. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    sketched the sump and cut a piece of steel on the band saw
    bent and welded it up
    cut the hole for the sump in the bottom of the tank
    bent the edge of the sump hole down slightly to help keep the fuel in the sump as it sloshes around
    and welded the sump in.

    PXL_20210217_235407627.jpg PXL_20210218_001953491.jpg PXL_20210218_011220208.jpg PXL_20210218_011224762.jpg PXL_20210218_011238457.jpg PXL_20210219_010121520.jpg PXL_20210220_222133557.jpg PXL_20210220_222144021.jpg
     
  22. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    cut a couple pieces of steel to use as baffles
    and cut holes in them and folded the edges to stiffen them up
    tacked the rear one in and clamped the front one in
    it'll get tacked in as the filler and sender get fitted

    PXL_20210221_014352175.jpg PXL_20210221_020822537.jpg PXL_20210221_020844188.jpg PXL_20210221_030238307.jpg PXL_20210221_030936766.jpg
     
  23. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    used a left over fuel level sending unit as a template and fabbed a ring to weld in the tank to bolt a sender to
    also welded a bung to the sump for fuel pickup.
    ordered a filler neck and correct sender as the one I have wont work here.

    PXL_20210221_204939170.jpg PXL_20210221_210030302.jpg PXL_20210221_210444437.jpg PXL_20210221_211140615.jpg PXL_20210221_212139206.jpg PXL_20210221_212456643.jpg PXL_20210222_213152020.jpg PXL_20210222_213243577.jpg
     
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  24. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    test fit
    Dummy cap for possible fill location

    PXL_20210220_222308250.jpg

    PXL_20210223_011130109.jpg

    PXL_20210223_011308890.jpg
     
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  25. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    It works out to about 14 gallons topped off with no room for air,
    It'll probably never see more than 10 or 12
    Should be just enough..
     
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  26. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 574

    OFT
    Member

    That is some nice work ,and showing how, on making up a custom fuel tank!!
     
  27. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    I think I could still pack a pair of socks and boxers in the trunk.. if I fold them just right
     
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  28. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Do you think the baffles will help slosh with such large holes? Even with a fast filling pump you should only need a half dozen 3/4" holes.
     
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  29. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,387

    Paul
    Editor

    I know they are large, but last tank I built I put smaller holes in it and it was a pain to fill.
    I believe it will slow the sloshing down,
    Heck, a lot of old tanks had baffles at all.

    They definitely stiffen the flat panels up
     
  30. Did you ever consider putting the flanges on the ends "in" instead of "out"; about another gallon in the same space. Maybe not quite as pretty; but more gas is handy at times.
     
    brEad and Stogy like this.

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