Anybody out there selling or making the stainless steel king pin lock and stop nut kits for a '32 front axle? Thanks
You might try this vendor. I've used their stuff. Good service and products. https://www.roadstersupply.com/Un-Polished-37-41-King-Pin-Kit-p/ahr-60705.htm I probably have extras in my shop. I won't be home until later in the week. Send me a conversation if interested.
Uh,,,,,, Thanks. Do you happen to have a picture(s)? Are these '32 Ford 'stainless steel' king pin locks and spindle stop? Not '37 and up? Are they polished? Can you please give me the measurements of the lock bolt? Total length, shoulder length, thread length, and diameter. The total length of the stop nut. The washer is 1/8" thick. How much? Thanks for your time, Rick
Thanks. I sent them a inquirey. I didn't see '32 specific stainless king pin lock and stops, listed on their site.
I guess I'm asking you because you are the only one who refers to them as special for a 32. I can't say I've ever seen a difference in the lock pins, so I wondered what it was. Maybe the stop nut is slightly different? And to see some made in stainless for the special 32 style sounds weird, as they would probably only be made for restorers. Most hot rodders will be using 37-48 spindles and would want pins and nuts that work best with those.
Based on this ad it appears '32-48 all use the same lock pin. https://www.ecklers.com/locking-pin-for-spindle-bolt-king-pin-ford-47-26508-1.html
What catalogs I have, do NOT list a 'Stainless Steel' lock pin and stop nut assembly for '32. They all start at '37 up for Stainless Steel assemblies. Google search, turned up the same information. 'Except,' there are complete Stainless Steel king pin assemblies, (which include the Stainless Steel lock and nut) listed for '32's. So, 'if' complete Stainless king pin 'kit's have the lock pin and stop nuts in Stainless, that means somebody is making them. Since the Stainless lock pins and nuts that are offered, start at '37 That tells me the lock pin stop nut is different somehow from '32 to '36. I do not know what the differences are between '32-'36 and '37 up, is the reason I inquired to you 'experts'. Thanks.
Do you have a completely stock front suspension? And by that I mean everything including the axle, spindles, king pins, brakes, steering etc. If not, please specify any variances. Full disclosure helps the helpers.
The lock shown will fit all Ford axles from Model A’s through 1948, but the earlier 1928 to May 1929 A did use a different 9/16” round lock as well as a king pin with a radiused notch to accept it. The wedge lock was found to retain the king pin better.
Another thing, I bet the Google search that found you kingpins in stainless for a 32 are not really for a stock 32. I bet those stainless kits are for 40 style spindles, not a stock mechanical brake 32 which has a completely different kingpin. So, if you are building a hot rod just source yourself a stainless lockpin and nut kit from a 40 and use it on your 32. Make sure to use lots of antiseize on the threads as it takes a bit of force to tighten up the nut and you don't want them to gall.
Yes. All original frame, suspension, drive line, steering*. The mechanical brake mounts are there, but no rods or linkage. Rear brakes are '48 style. Fronts are '53-'56 F-100 hubs and backing plates. Front drums (me) are '73-'78 CJ-5 Jeep cast iron with the fins, modified to fit the F-100 hub boss perfectly. (the brake conversion was done by the person who 'restored' the car in the '70's**) I replaced the Ford Script king pins with a 'kit' from the early V8 Store. Polished the pins and bushings to a high luster. Cut the original mechanical brake mount (cup) off the original king pins and welded it on top of the Lacy king pins for visual. I am building a "VERY" traditional high boy, with as much old(er) originality (parts) as possible. I have a lot (most) of the fasteners polished stainless, and was wanting the stainless king pin lock and stops. I just ordered a stainless lock and nut kit from the Deuce Frame Co. from out there in Calif. His lock pins measured identical to my OEM lock pins. * I upgraded the OEM steering box with a Hudson unit, so I can still retain the original headlight switch and assembly. ** Canada car from new. (don't know what body) Guy 'restored' the car in the '70's. Guy #2 bought the car just for the body in the later '90's. Guy #3 bought what was left for the motor, tires wheels, hood and fenders and other OEM parts Complete frame, suspension, steering, tank, and firewall was bought by stateside Guy#1 and brought to the States. '10- '11 In the early '90's stateside guy #2 bought one of the first Roadster bodies from Brookville. All original style except for the side curtain holes in the doors. That body hung in that person's rafters until around '11 or '12. Stateside guy #1 bought stateside guy# 2's body and put it on the rolling frame. Painted everything, had a car that would run, stop, and drive. The project then stalled. In Christmas of '15, I bought the car. Replaced several items, rebuilt several items, changed several items, designed and built several items that has never been done before, to make this build different from all the other hi boys.
Glad you were able to find a source. Putting photo from Deuce Frame Company site for everyone's future reference. Phil
@alumcantandthd , now that this issue is resolved I'm hoping you will start a new thread to show us your progress on the rod. The description above has piqued my interest. Thanks.
Unfortunately I can't do that. The last camera I was able to understand how to comfortably use is the Kodak Instantmatic 110. The last phone I can comfortably use, had a receiver, dial, or pushbuttons. I can only do four things on this computer. Type, ebay, google and porno. It is impossible for me to adapt to this electronic age. The only picture(s) I have of this build are, if, any of the daughters or grand kid comes around, takes them for me. Which doesn't happen very often. 'If' I can do it, I'll try and post the pictures they took of the rear hood hinge brackets I hand made, to give a 'teaser'. I designed and made the brackets out of stainless using existing OEM fram e holes. Because I did 'not' want to weld any non OEM brackets nor drill any 'extra' holes. There 'might' be an extra small hole or two in the OEM firewall, but I didn't put them there. The aftermarket grill shell (however I 'do' have a OEM grille) headlights wire holes have been drilled lower than OEM location. Since it is already painted, I can't change that very easily. Anyway. See if I
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