Anyone here knows the best way to free up one of those? It's off my 40 Tudor and it's not totally stuck, it does move with vacuum but barely. I can move it fully by hand. Thanks. View attachment 4974706
I put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil into the line while moving the blade back and forth by hand. The movement sucks in the oil. Worked really good afterwards.
^Agree. A light mineral oil is the right stuff to use. I've messed around with quite a few of these and can pass on what I've learned about them. I've found when they start acting up, it's best to pop the top and clean the guts for the best, long term fix. Coagulated oil and grease inside is often the problem. Another issue less common, is for the paddle seal to have dried out and lost it's suppleness, preventing a good seal. Soaking the seal in brake fluid will usually get it back in decent condition but..... if you have to do this, make sure to have the paddle/seal assembly installed in the housing. You want the seal to conform to the housing and not become distorted. I use Vaseline as a lube for the paddle seal when re-assembling and clean and re-lube the toggle valve assembly, making sure the tension springs are in good condition. Just my two cents worth....
Look at the junk that was in there. I cleaned it best I could. It's actually working now. I used Vaseline and a bit of oil too.. there's pitting in the aluminum on the bottom. I might just go with an electric one later on... for now tho, it works. Thanks guys! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used brake fluid to free up a new old stock that was stuck solid. Let it soak for a week and it finally freed. Working good now. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I was told by someone who had a bunch of NOS wiper motors that they used a propane torch and heated up the case of the wiper motor, to re liquify the old grease inside. Said it made them work like a new one should.