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Projects John Wheeler's “Pink Hag” 35 Ford Rebuild

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dugydog, Dec 26, 2020.

  1. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,564

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    With the engine where it needs to be & that loooonnng trans, that drive-shaft is gonna be mighty short, eh?
     
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  2. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    I dug out a driveshaft I picked up a while back that supposedly came out of a 49 Cadillac Sedanette with a three speed. The back of the Lasalle trans I have is the slip yoke style so the driveshaft went right in but the driveshaft overshot the quick change by about an inch. I’m sure I’ll have to have that cut but I’ll wait until I’m certain that the motor is in the correct location. I’m still waiting for the fan I bought on feebay. IMG_0741.JPG


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  3. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,564

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    Well that's not bad at all!
    I noticed the way the frame was modified... eliminating the X. That's the same thing that was done to my '39 way back when. Yours is only the second one I've seen.
     
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  4. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    Well truth be told I think mine was not done “way back when” but no matter I’m going with it. By the way did you have to fabricate new floor pedals? I’m gonna have to do something with mine.


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  5. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,185

    chiro
    Member

    Hey Doug,
    Nice radiator. I wish you found one that nice that was already modified. They are hard to find. I've been looking for a spare '35 for my flathead as well. It's almost a shame that you'll have to make it not flathead friendly. Lol. Don't forget to set the angle of the rear snout of the trans to match the pinion angle.
    Andy
     
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  6. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,564

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

     
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  7. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    I Didn’t get much done today however earlier in the week i got the trans lined up with the rear. I had about a 6 degree angle downward from the trans and the same angle upward from the rear pinion. My friend Jay stopped by and he helped me measure the driveshaft. It was about 1 inch too long so he’s gonna have it shortened and have a new universal joint installed that will bolt up to the quick change. Tomorrow I’m gonna install the water pump, fan and radiator to see if I have to clearance the fan.


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  8. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    I’m still in the “mock up” stage and expect to be doing this for quite a while. Today I put the water pump on, stuck the fan on and put the radiator in place. Everything looks good so far. The fan clears the lower radiator outlets and it’s about 3/4 to 1 inch away from the radiator. The fan is pretty low on the radiator but there’s not much I can do about that. I’m looking for a single groove pulley to go behind the fan if anybody has one. Couldn’t resist hanging a grill on there too! I’d really like to get the ‘40 steering box and column bolted in there next. It looks like it’s gonna be a tight fit what with the exhaust ports and all, maybe next weekend.
    IMG_0795.JPG IMG_0797.JPG IMG_0796.JPG


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  9. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    I spent some time today researching pinion angle setup etc. and let’s just say there’s a lot of stuff out there on this subject. Without getting too technical my 2 takeaways from the reading I’ve been doing is:
    #1- 6 degrees is too much of an angle for either the engine/trans or rear pinion and
    #2- Trying to set the pinion angle when the body is not on the frame and the vehicle ride height is not yet determined is not recommended. That said I will address the pinion angle once I get further along with the build. For now I’m setting up the motor with a 2-3 degree downward angle, knowing that I may have to adjust that as the build proceeds.
     
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  10. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,564

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    Correct
     
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  11. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,920

    phat rat
    Member

    The frame on my 41 is modified like that except I had 12 ga. flat stock bent into a C with taper to match front and rear cutoff X ends and used a cut down Chevy trans mount. 99K+ mi. without any problems
     
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  12. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    Today I mounted the 1940 steering box and column.
    IMG_0809.JPG IMG_0810.JPG
    As you can see I definitely have an issue with the column being way too close to the rear exhaust port of the head. I’m not sure how Wheeler avoided this. The only thing I know for sure is that he used a ‘40 steering box. I know this because the mounting plate on the frame was modified to accept the bolt pattern of a ‘40 steering box. I’m guessing there’s a way to drop the steering some just not sure how to do that or if that would give me the needed space.


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  13. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,564

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

  14. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    So I received other suggestions from fellow HAMBER’s reference the clearance problem and I believe I had the motor at way more of a downward angle than 3 degrees or even 6 degrees. I began to raise the back of the motor and put a level on the crank pulley as the motor got closer to being level I gained a lot more clearance at the exhaust port. I’m gonna also use a column drop and hopefully this will give me the room I need. I returned the protractor I got from HD and ordered a digital one from Amzn which should make it easier to set the motor in the right spot.

    I moved to the rear of the chassis looking for an easy job and decided to load the backing plates with new cylinders etc. and put the new drums on.

    IMG_0816.JPG



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  15. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,185

    chiro
    Member

    Don't forget to check the level of your floor and make measurements with that in mind.
    Andy
     
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  16. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,564

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    By "leveling the engine", you're checking "level" @ the intake's carb-mount with the frame level, right?
     
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  17. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    Because my current intake manifold has two different heights for dual Strombergs I just put the level on the Crank pulley to see if it was perpendicular to the floor. I will put the level across the one of the two mounting surfaces of the intake to confirm. Yes the frame is sitting level but the body is not back on yet so I know that will probably have some kind of effect on my final measurement also.


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  18. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,564

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    Gotcha... Just sayin that if the balancer is plumb, the carb base would usually be tilted forward. Generally, even if the twin carbs are at a slightly different height, they should be equally level at the base. On my 327 the carb base is level & the balancer is leaned back (@ the top) a few degrees
     
  19. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,185

    chiro
    Member

    Doug,
    The Driveshaft Shop in Islandia when you're ready. Ask them how to take the measurement for length.
    Andy
     
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  20. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    Gonna be an interesting build. Looks like a champ rearend, do you know what axle tubes n axles are in there?
     
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  21. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    The QC is an early Halibrand unit. The axle tubes look newer with large ford older style bolt pattern on the ends. I neglected to measure the axles when I had them out but they looked to be pretty heavy duty, more than adequate for my motor and trans.


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  22. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    Finally got the trans mount in place. I’m looking next to figure out how I’m gonna secure the ball on the wishbone. I have a partial x-member that I removed from a ‘35 parts car, my thought is to cut off what I don’t need and then weld it up to my inner chassis rails.
    IMG_0841.JPG IMG_0855.JPG


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  23. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    I installed the Hurst 3-speed yesterday, and today I worked on the wishbone. Since I’m not splitting them I needed to make a mount for the ball. In the interest of full disclosure I haven’t really done any fabrication before. My background for this job was passing my physics regents exam in the spring of ‘78 and maybe 2 mechanical technology classes in college. Anyway I started by removing the transmission saddle(?) from the x member. I have the benefit of a clapped out ‘35 Sedan that I use for parts. Next I disassembled the saddle and used the base plate which has the cup in it which holds the ball. Next I cut a straight piece out of the same x-member and used that as a crossmember on my modified chassis. I welded the base plate to the bottom of the crossmember and since it was only the second time in my life I ever welded something, I added some grade 8 hardware, same goes for the crossmember. After completion I took some measurements and the ball is about 3/4 of an inch lower than it’s original position on the parts car. I’m not sure of the overall effect this modification will have on the suspension, but I guess we’ll find out. I’ve included some pictures but tried not to include my welds!
    IMG_0868.JPG
    IMG_0857.JPG IMG_0872.JPG


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  24. glrbird
    Joined: Dec 20, 2010
    Posts: 601

    glrbird
    Member

    Since you have some scrap metal laying around, practice welding them together. Got any books on welding? It takes practice, that’s all.
     
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  25. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,185

    chiro
    Member

    Looks good from here :rolleyes:
    Andy
     
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  26. From what I understand lowering the ball mount increases caster which I hear is a good thing on these cars. I plan to do the exact same thing on my 40 chassis if all goes to plan.

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  27. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 295

    dugydog
    Member

    Today I took the shift rods off and reinstalled them correctly. In my haste to get the 3-speed installed last week I inadvertently mounted the shift rod brackets 180 degrees out which made a goofy shift pattern opposite of what I wanted. It’s good now, reverse is left and up, 1st gear is left and down, and of course 2nd is up and 3rd is down. Next I began looking at my firewall which I never liked. When Wheeler began his ill advised attempt to Street Rod this car he installed a B*#+^~= Products firewall. I really didn’t like the look of it on top of which I’m using Ansen style hanging pedals (thanks Brent) as Wheeler did back in the day and that modern firewall doesn’t allow enough room for the pedals. I do give Wheeler credit tho because he saved the piece of firewall that he removed. It’s pretty banged up and the welds are well......really snotty but you can see how he sectioned it to make room for the Cad motor. Anyway I removed a large portion of the firewall today. Once I get the body back on the chassis and the motor installed I’ll have a better idea of how i can rebuild the firewall. I’d really like use the original piece that Wheeler saved to help fill this giant hole I just made.
    IMG_0892.JPG IMG_0893.JPG IMG_0894.JPG IMG_0896.JPG


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  28. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,564

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    That'll test your skills... lookin' forward to seein' how it turns out.
     
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  29. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,185

    chiro
    Member

    THAT looks like it's going to be fun. :rolleyes: I know you don't weld much so time to grab some similar gauge sheet metal and get to practicing first. Open up your welder and check the chart inside for proper settings for the gauge metal you're welding. A good place to start. You can tweak the settings after you get started and see how it's going. A little practice and I'm pretty sure your welds will at least look better than what's already there...Hah!!! A good selection of hammers and dollys, a 4 1/2" shrinking disc that you can fit to your grinder and a small angled die grinder with a variety of grit roll-loc sanding pads should get you started. Cannibalize some old computer hard drives for the magnets inside. They're strong as shit and great for holding sheet metal in position for welding. Did you torch that out??? If you did, get a few thin cutoff discs for your grinder. Makes cleaner cuts. Time to make some sparks!!!:D Keep at it. I look forward to the weekly installments. Lol.
    Andy
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2021
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