I've got a good running '39 flathead that has developed a rust-through hole in the water jacket just below the lower bolt on the exhaust manifold, rear-most outlet, passenger side. I've read on the Model T site about using original JB Weld and also using High Temp Belzona epoxy on Cummins diesels to patch problems like this but want to know if HAMBers have any PERSONALLY PROVEN solutions for this type of situation that doesn't involve using a torch. It's a good engine and I'd really like to save it. Thanks in advance.
It kind of makes you wonder if that is the only spot that is rusted though or pretty well rusted through. If you use a stock low/no pressure cap it might not be an issue to stick a band-aid on it. I've seen some migrant farm workers do amazing things on their cars with JB weld.
You may consider finding someone with an ultrasonic thickness gage... would be nice to know if this is a localized issue before making any decisions. If the defect turns out to be a “random” event, it could be as simple as a carefully placed pipe plug or crack pin...
What do you have to loose? I do recommend you update your AAA. First hand … Long story I'll try to be brief.... My father got ripped off with new 1977 55 Johnson outboard. The dealer farted stalled until the OMC warranty was up. It was a factory defect in the pistons. One of those pistons punched a hole in either the cylinder or the head. My father used JB weld. It was that or scrap the whole thing. That boat ran for years and years after that with no problem.
I have had good success using Original JB on some one off fabricated cooling system parts for an OT race rig that leaked a bit, my welding and brazing fab skills not being the greatest. The key to JB success on any jobs is making sure the surfaces are clean, clean, and cleaner. Beveling the edge of a small hole or grinding a crack to a V helps if there is enough material and space available. It does like to "run" before it sets up if the surface to be repaired isn't facing up at near horizontal. Like mentioned above a small plug or screw might be a good option to save pulling the engine to get the repair area facing up. Ed
The oil pan in my OT diesel pickup is JB welded right now. Rust pinholes. My experience is clean the area very well. Sand or grind the area to create a rough surface or tooth. Use the original JB weld not fast setting. Let cure for 24 hours. Ive done manybrepairs in high heat and oily conditions and all lasted for a good long time
I have no experience with the High Temp Belzona epoxy so can't comment on it. Back in the '70's we experienced block rust through issues on the 660HP McIntosh & Seymour engines used in ALCO locomotive switchers. The carrier couldn't come up with a welding rod that would work well with whatever the blocks were cast of so we wound up grinding the affected areas reasonably smooth, making steel patches, homemade gaskets, and attaching them with small cap screws. Fix worked and the locomotives continued running in service for years until scrapped for other reasons. Ed
Thanks for all the thoughts and ideas. Sounds like I'm not the only one that has run across this kind of problem before. I think that I'll mull the ideas over and do a little more research on the heat/water properties of JB Weld and Belzona and come up with a plan of attack. I'll let you know what I come up with as a solution and how it works out. Again, thanks for the help.
The JB Weld works if: 1) You get the area clean enough. 2) You make sure you get the entire area that is suspect covered. 3) You allow the JB Weld 24 hours to fully cure before you put any liquid against it. 4) There isn't a lot of pressure in the cooling system. 5) The JB Weld isn't subjected to high stress (twisting/flexing). It actually works quite well for sealing stuff that isn't under a lot of pressure or stress. Gene