Hot Rods Hanging pedals in hot rods, 1960-62 C10 M/C

It's been a little while but I think all I did was fab my own brake and clutch rods out of 3/8" round bar. Pretty simple. Other than that, no mods.

 

Great! Thank you. That helps!


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Do you even need a residual valve if the m/c is firewall mounted?

 

The above images are of the unit I ran in my 38 Chevy, the hydraulic clutch and drum brakes (54 Chev front/57 Chev rear) worked great. I think I got it in some trading in the early 70's . The pedal ratio was certainly better than the Ansen?? pictured below. I think I was just dumb and lucky at how well the original system worked. After the car had sat for ten or twenty years......guess what the master and slave decided not to work. And the hot set up was NOT a stock beam axle. I should have stuck with this setup and not married the second wife. Awe the mistakes you can make when you are 40
I don't remember changing anything in the master cylinder, just bolted it up, bled the system and it worked. It was used so perhaps someone else changed the configuration.

 

Ive used the hanging pedals many times, master cylinder and matching slave is still available at the parts store, i use to manufactur a copy of moon hanging pedals which was pretty close to the ansen, like posted before you just change the internals (mainly the residual valve) and there you go, the chevy trucks have a cross shaft in the pedal assembly so thats why they are reversed, ive seen original pedals used in hot rods too. here are a few pics of set ups ive done, slave mounts, firewall mounts, i always beef up the firewall with a 3/16 plate and dash bracing, makes it tons stronger. i also always use 1/4 line everywhere on the brake system and have always used 40 brakes up front and usually 9" rear or 57 chev rear end. always had good brakes. first pics are of the pedal assemblies we made.

 

Don't want to hijack this thread but are chrome lids available for these?

 

nope, you have to plate yours.

 

@titus
Any particular reason for using 1/4” line?

 

Here's my two cents worth. I recently sold a sweet 29 pickup that had dagle's floor pedals and master cylinder setup in it. The brakes were 40 fords all around, pedal pressure was minimal, stopped like it had power brakes. The clutch was hydraulic also and was effortless. My 29 roadster is a different story it still has the original tank with swinging pedals and the above mentioned chevy truck master cylinder on the other side of the firewall. The pedal arms are very short and the pads very close to the flat floor due to the stock tank, the clutch takes two feet to push down and the brakes despite having Lincoln bendix in front and ford locheed in the back are just about as uncomfortable as the clutch. I totally understand the need to get the math right with these things, you can't just mix and match whatever you want and have something that works well. Maybe sometimes we get lucky, but more often we don't, I have stretched the geometry on mine all I can and am now down to bushing or sleeving the MC next. I am somewnat glad that I am not the only one dealing with this and am grateful for the wealth of info on the subject here! Thanks Rich

 

ford wheel cylinders need the volume of fluid, there all sorts of arguments on what should and shouldnt work, im just posting what worked for me, brakes work great on all these cars and clutch was easy to push.

 

It depends. For the drum brake rears, yes, for the front disc, yes, maybe. I've had my off topic car for 28 years with no residual valves at all, and it does fine. Disc front and drum rear.

 

Lots of good information here. I will need to reference this thread when I get to the pedals on my build.

I bought a pedal assembly from a 62 Chevy truck. I plan on using Chevy parts for this...from the pedals, master, bell housing, slave, brackets and hoses. I will need to modify the brackets that attach from the pedals to the dash so it will fit in my 31 as the factory 62 assembly is bigger than the Ansen style set ups.

 

I just performed this swap on the kitchen table, while my wife was upstairs of course. I would add that after swapping over the residual valve, and rubber washer behind it also swap over the plunger spring as it is slightly shorter in length than that for the clutch side. In the attached photos the residual valve looks like the top of a salt shaker. The hardest part of the job was finding my snap ring pliers which I haven’t used in months.



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Anyone have smoother castings than others?

 

Another heads up. GMC used tha m/c on 1 ton chassis up to 66? I think? I have a 63 GMC with da same setup. So maybe there might be more availability for ya. There is also a difference in da clutch pedal lever that goes to da rod that pushes in da m/c from mechanical to hydraulic. Hydraulic has a shorter lever. Also pedal linkage crossover is da reason why da clutch side is on da side u wouldn't expect. If u seen it, u would understand. I cant figure out how to post pics or id show ya.

 

I ordered my pedal setup from RJ's today. I'll post pics of them when they come in.

 

Yes, the original Chevy pedal setup had an underdash linkage that swapped the pedal positions between the pedal and the master. Not sure why. I have done a few and always carefully grind off the "brake" and "chutch" markings on the master to reduce confusion. There use to be several companies that would bush down master a d wheel cylinders, but some are no longer around. But not a big deal if you have a lathe. Brass was used in most cases to sleeve the bores. I bushed one to reduce the clutch side bore to match a specific hydraulic TOB. Bracing the firewall takes longer in many cases than doing the master mods.