home made tools and equipment...

That's not going to hit any harder than an air hammer, if it even hits that hard, and the OP already said an air hammer wouldn't do the job.

 

“Air powered sledge hammer” you want??

Hell dog rivet buster.



Really Knocks the shit out stuff and not hard to handle. Different bits available too. Need lots of air..but you’re going to get thru it or out of your way.

 

Guys all these “ hammers” mentioned hit with little short hard strokes. While they do work good, for some uses, they tend to “ mushroom” a pin instead of drifting it.
There is no substitute for a full swing with a 16/20 pound sledgehammer. For me those times are over. That is what I looking to find or build, something that gives that kind of blow.
I have envisioned a 20 lbs weight in a housing ,compressing a spring and then being released , some how and traveling maybe 18 inches and striking a “ punch “ held in the housing . Something of this nature, to take the place of my old arms and back! Lol










Bones

 

It almost sounds like you are looking for something like a slide hammer, in reverse. Raise the weight to the top of the shaft, and turn it loose. Gravity + enough weight is as good as any hammer. Anyone that has smacked their finger handling a slide hammer will agree.

 

Yep, that is exactly what I wanting . But I would like it to be air powered , as sometimes , you have to use the the tool sideways.
Another design I thought of was an air cylinder with a weighted piston. Pull the piston up about 3/4 the way. Lock it, apply air pressure, release it causing the weighted piston to hit a punch at the end of the cylinder. Just having trouble designing the locking system. With a tool like this you adjust the impact by variable air pressure. Just brain storming here.








Bones

 

Not quite clear on what you are describing but an air cylinder with a high inertia load uses cushion spears on both sides of the piston to decelerate it at the end of the stroke to prevent the piston from slamming against the head or the piston being knocked off the rod threads. Maybe I just don't understand you thoughts on this but wanted to mention that.

 

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=1973

Sent from my LG-TP450 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My Snap On long stroke air hammer will move a lot of stuff.

 

Yes that would be necessary. I did not go into deep detail on my idea, just the basics. You would definitely need a super heavy spring an the far end of the piston travel to de accelerate the weighted piston if it hit the end of the travel. My biggest problem is building an air tight release mechanism for holding the piston while you build up air pressure behind it. But I think you do have a grasp of what I am wanting to build.








Bones

 

Yep, James, I have two Snap-on air hammers , one large one small and a number of other brands, plus a Hilti hammer, plus an assortment of Jack hammers up to 90 lbs. But all these devices won’t “ drift” a pin. The impact of these tools tend to mushroom the pin. The vibration they set up really helps in some cases. They are really designed to go through the items they are used on, not “ push” them out.






Bones

 

https://www.homemadetools.net/forum..._content=02-06-21-174461&fi=174461#post174461

 

Looks like it would work, but it would be a bitch to move around!




Bones

 

Thinking about this thing you want. If you had a control valve on both ports, you could pressurize the cap end while the rod end is closed at a control valve. Open the control valve at the rod end and it will extend. There is a cheap device called a quick exhaust valve you could install on the rod end and the air exiting will not have to go back through a control valve in order to exhaust which provides quick extension. One precaution is pressurizing the cap end with the rod end blocked you will experience some pressure intensification due to the unequal areas between the cap end and the rod end. If you have 100 PSI on the cap end you could see 125PSI on the rod end, for example. The larger the rod diameter the higher the intensification will be.
There are also cylinders available with rod lock devices but the lock grips the rod when there is no pressure, opposite of what you want. I suppose some creative thinking could come up with a way of making one of those work. They are available from many pneumatic cylinder manufacturers.

 

That’s exactly how that hell dog works.
The piston is about 1-1/2 diameter, 3-5 lbs, driven by 125 psi. Kinda slow at 100-120 blows a minute. It hits HARD. Not like a Hollywood jack hammer.
The 90 lb jackhammer as well as the 60lb vibrate with weight. The hell dog Hits. All I can say is try one.
Look at the mechanism, the air release and all the supporting players structure and weight to drive that piston.
Sounds like you’re looking to build basically a potato gun that’s going to shoot a 18 lb hammer head.

 

Not to hijack this thread, but I have one question for Oil Guy: Your profile says you are a hydraulic specialist. Can you recommend a website for a surplus company that has fairly well detailed dimensions on their stuff they're selling? I have some old equipment that could use some newer cylinders such as a big horizontal cut band saw that uses a hydraulic cylinder to control drop of the blade. Needs a new cylinder, but it's an old saw with no parts available. Manufacturer Kaputt

 

I will check the Hell-dog out! Thanks.....potato guy that shoots sledge hammers! Good one! But I guess that is what I want! Lol







Bones

 

http://www.searshometownstores.com/...olt-Hammerhead-Auto-Hammer-with-Rotating-Head

sears made one LOL

 

https://www.baileyhydraulics.com/ Has materials/parts to build your own.

 

Dirty: Bailey, yes. Also Northern Hydraulics. But I doubt if either deals with surplus items. If it is a tie rod cylinder, with four bolts retaining the end caps, it is most likely a JIC standard and various manufacturers will have a direct replacement. I do not know of a surplus site for such things. Welded type cylinders without the external tie rods really have no standard dimensions. The machine builders make or buy a cylinder just for their specific application. Those are the type which I have seen on saws. Cylinders are usually repairable and that is an option you could look into, especially a welded unit for a saw that sees little side loading, heat or shock. I would suggest that you open it up and see what type of seals it uses and the condition of the cylinder bore. You should be able to get replacement seals for it from a hydraulic repair facility at a low cost. Sometimes they are as simple as orings. But surplus? I can't think of any sources at the moment. If something comes to me I will send a PM.

 

https://slidesledge.com/
When I was selling tools I sold a few of these. They will move the mail!

 

I liked the Toolpost Grinder idea that @ekimneirbo had,so I made my own. Thanks for that.

 

There is also “ Surplus Center” . I have the Baileys catalog. Coming from a farm, I have many hydraulic cylinders in the ranch shop, that I could play with. One even has a broken end.
I thinking a four inch by 18 inch tie rod cylinder, use the shaft to make an external locking mechanism. Build a steel piston about 4/5 inches long. Along with the shaft that should get my 18 pound hammer. Drill the solid end cap to accept a truck king pin. Weld a cap somewhat smaller than four inches on the king pin for the piston to strike and also prevent the pin from falling out. .limit how far the king pin can retract with a clamp, then push the king pin against what you want to drive out. Place a cushion under the king pin plate made of round cut outs of tires about 1 1/2 inch thick, to cushion the impact of the piston , should it contact the end of the cylinder.
Put air pressure on top of the piston , put this contraption up against what you want ti hit and trip the lock...... cabam! Maybe?
I am moving my lathe and mill from the ranch shop to my detached garage at my residence, as we speak. This may be my first project!







Bones

 

Bones: Probably tired of hearing my opinions but I have to mention a couple of things. Hydraulic cylinder piston and rod seals are high tension whereas the pneumatic are not due to limited lubrication. The hydraulic seals would wear quickly without continuous lubrication. The piston and rod seals can probably be replaced by a seal supplier with lower tension seals. Since you are going to make a piston, get the piston seals before you machine the grooves.
Also, do not make a steel piston. It will seize up in a steel barrel. Hydraulic cylinder pistons are cast iron or some models use aluminum.

 

Good info! I think maybe a cast iron piston may shatter! Maybe. Aluminum would defeat the purpose of the piston. When I make the piston it will just have one o ring and will probably be steel with clearance. I will solve the same metal thing with proper lubercation. It’s not like it will be going up,and down like a piston. If it travels one hundred times I would be surprised. This is a tool you won’t use everyday, but will or should work great when you need it!
Oil guy, by all means offer your opinion! I need all the help I can get! Lol








Bones

 

Made this bender to bolt to my welding table yesterday.
It'll take a 2' wide piece of 18 gauge and put a nice clean 1/2" radius bend in it.

Bend slip bend in increments and it'll bend any radius greater than 1/2"
Bend to 90°, slip it out 1/2" bend again and it'll bend 180°
Should work just fine for what I have in mind.

 

^^^^Dang, the attachments don't seem to work^^^^

 

Wierd.. don't know what went haywire but I think I fixed them

 

Reckon you can get those flip-flops in steel toes???

 

Cool! Nicely done

 

Bones: Friend down the road from me had a similar issue I advised use mechanical advantage, a 5 to one fulcrum if you hit the top 1/2 inch the bottom will move 1/10th but 5 times the force. He drove a 2" pin out of a hyd. cylinder that way. Heat didn't work for him but mechanical advantage did.
Movin/on (FERoadster)