Here’s my 34 coupe seat I built up from a stock seat pan,first I made new plywood back, base, and carriage boards I used furniture webbing on the base
Then I used a bandsaw to cut new cushions from 6” dense foam, adding a 1/2” dense foam horse shoe bolster
Then I sewed vinyl covers with listing, I put tuck wires into the foam to hog ring the listing to, this creates shape and separates a flat seat cover from true a true tuck and roll job
Very Nice, - we need more threads like this. Thank you ! I have always wondered how comfortable these ‘all foam’ seats are on a long trip, compared to original spring type seats with very little, if any foam on them ? Any comments ? Also you mention ‘dense’ foam. Is there any kind of rating on the density to identify which foam to use ? And how important is it to have the cut out section and webbing ? Thanks.
53 pound foam on the cushion 35 on the backrest The bolster is all 53 pound The cutout with webbing helps as far as I know Never tried one without As for comparing to original springs I’m sure a sprung cushion would last longer But these last pretty well and usually the spring seat is way too high
Wow that’s very nice. @F-head would you mind sharing how to do the tuck wire in the foam? When I made my first seat I tried to get that roll of the horse shoe but couldn’t figure it out. Thanks
Nice job...as a beginner to the upholstery side of car building, I really appreciate threads like this. "Then I sewed vinyl covers with listing, I put tuck wires into the foam to hog ring the listing to," Can you go into more detail (or photos?) on your statement above...that part still seems like magic to me...how do you determine how wide the listing needs to be to get the propet amount of tuck? How and were do the tuck wires get placed? Is the foam cut for clearance of the listing? How deep etc. Thanks again. Excellent thread.
Yeah, more explanation on the wires. Are they curved to go all the way around the outer edge of the insert, or just the straight runs?
I cut a 1 1/2” deep slit in the foam where the cushion meets the horse shoe bolster it’s very important to make sure the slit is cut to an even depth I used edge wire bent to the shape of slit Shove it down into the slit using button twine shoved thru the foam with an upholstery needle, pulled tight and fastened on the bottom with staples or tied to paper wire, The lister is made from decking material and is sewn with a channel Best to cut the listing on the bias so it doesn’t unravel Sew the channel first then sew the lister on to the cover at the seam where the pleats meet the roll Should finish out at 1” That way you have 1/2” of pull down into the slit The channel on the lister gets paper wire which is hog ringed to the edge wire buried in the slit Start in the middle and work out always Hope this helps Bruce
Here’s a seat with spring cushion and back rest I did for a friends 32 5 window On a spring seat the tuck wire is hog ringed to the top of the springs after the burlap underlayment is in in place
thank you for the informative reply. Just looking at doing something to mine now. This all helps. (I have a very comfortable van seat and a stock model a seat, and trying to figure out which to modify to suit).