Technical Grinding some of the Gas Tank center lip away.

I have a new gas tank on my el Camino. It needs some of the center lip ground off so it will fit. Will this be okay?

The tank is a new Spectra... I would only be grinding off a 1/4" and this is before the electro weld. The welds really look nice, defiantly machine welds.

I would only ne removing the parts in red.

Thank you..

 

Could you massage it down slightly with a hammer........

 

I like the idea of a little hammer and dolly work instead of cutting.

 

>>>bend it up out of the way>>>

Yep, but with vice-grips or pinched between adjustable wrench jaws. Not hammer. Jack E/NJ

 

Fresh tank that never had fuel in it. I don't have a problem taking a cut off wheel to it.

 

I had to rake some off my new Drake for the 39. Didn't have enuff to bend, stayed away from the weld, and my excessively anal tendancy made me pressure test with soapy water. All good. Logic is your friend.

 

I would bend it. Cutting it might open it up a little bit. Depends on where the weld "actually" is.

 

I'm thinking I should heat it up a little before bending, not cherry but make it a little softer..

The weld is about a half inch away from the cut. I was going to put a set of wide jaw Vise Grips on the seam or try to lock it up in the vise..

I know I sound like a newbie with all this but for some reason I have a hell of a time with fluids leaking on me.. I would rather replace a transmission or a set of front springs on a independent front suspension car then replace brake tubing or heater cores..

I'm thinking I should borrow my neighbors electric tin shears if I cut. I wouldn't use my Sawzall, there too rough..

Thanks a lot guys...

 

OP clearing stated where welds are and provided pictures as well. Cut/cuts will be outside of weld.

 

Grind it..it's not risky like running with scissors, especially if you stay outside the electric weld line. Have done many, never a leak!

 

We know. But no one knows for sure until it's opened. That's why I said "actually is".

 

Elky>>>I'm thinking I should heat it up a little before bending, not cherry but make it a little softer..>>>The weld is about a half inch away from the cut. I was going to put a set of wide jaw Vise Grips on the seam or try to lock it up in the vise..>>>

I like this idea.

FHDave>>>That's why I said "actually is".>>>

Agreed.

Jack E/NJ

 

I would bend it up, with a adjustable wrench ( adjust it to just slide over the lip) and gently bend a little at a time.

 

Man you are confusing us ......... you change your avatar every couple of days LOL .

 

LOL!! I'm a Schizo gear head..

 

Is the seam welded or is it some kind of solder or brazing? If its a solder, heating it may make it leak.

 

It looks like it was welded with some kind of machine.. Its a perfect looking weld, my other tanks didn't have this.

 

It is done by a machine that works like a spot welder but has two rollers.

 

^^^^^

 

Thanks a lot John... That's exactly what my tank has..

Its amazing what they have today, when I think back on how we used to do almost everything by hand..

 

A rolled resistance seam welder.

I will give you the best advice you will get in the entire thread.

Do not hammer the metal to bend it over.
Don’t heat it to bend it.
Don’t do anything that might interfere with the integrity of the weld seam which hammering or bending might, although if the welding was done properly likely wouldn’t be a problem.

The right way to do it is to cut away the part you need for clearance using a thin cutoff wheel and as long as you stay at least 1/8” away from the weld seam you will be fine.

As far as pressure testing goes, don’t bother, the scrap yard is full of tanks guys trying to pressure test have destroyed.

 

Why can’t you cut away whatever is interfering with the correct placement of the tank ?
is it a chassis cross member that won’t notice 1/4” off it, or even something non structural ?
Or correct that piece if it is bent out of shape.
Even bending your tank may compromise the seam weld if not done carefully.

 

I'd like to clarify my "pressure test" while we're all here about gas tanks. When looking for a leak it doesn't take much to find it. I simply covered the holes with duct tape, put a rubber tipped blowgun into the outlet, very gently and cautiously gave it a little air. I'd guess the tank got maybe, MAYBE, 15 PSI if that. A helper sprayed a mix of Dawn dish soap and water so we could see leaks. Nothing. No bubbles. All good. If it can't hold 10-15 PSI it ain't worth a bent dick. I've done quite a few tank sumps too. Those angled gigs from the race retailers? For drag racers using a stock tank, they weld into the bottom rear. Always tested the work the same way. Never an issue, just be smart. It's not a compressor storage tank. Add to all that this is a new tank that ain't had no go juice in it, right? Carry on...

 

Doesn't take much air pressure to get a gas tank out of shape.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I've always used the exhaust from a shop vac to test tanks and etc. for leakage. It's what we did on the aircraft heat muffs...

 

You forgot one thing, he needs to some how seal the separated metal to inhibit rust forming. That would be my only concern with slicing a bit off of it.

 

True ! A few PSI and watch the tank grow

 

Well I heated it with a heat gun and it bent like it was suppose to go there. I got the whole thing in and the damn filler tube is too low I'm going to see what Summit wants to do. I rather just get some money back and take it down to Beatty.. Let him shorten it and check the whole thing out..

 

Not a problem with a little coat of this stuff or something similar.