Thanks Thor1. I believe you are correct. It has to be accessible from the outside of the car. I do intend on hitting the track some day (1/8 mile around where I live) and when I do I will build up a push/pull style lever through an old tail light lens I have set aside. The battery box itself is NHRA approved to be in the trunk so no worries on that. For now I am working towards getting it on the road to put some miles under my belt.
another reason to leave the battery up front where it belongs...that and having room in the trunk to put other stuff.
Wow!!! Just spent the last hour reading this from the start. What a quality build. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Hi speedster t. After building the large c - channel supports myself and three others flipped it over by hand. Using the long supports as a lever to both raise it and lower it down. The body itself seems surprisingly light.
Curious what you used for the black paint. I’m contemplating the POR 15 chassis black. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Hi novamad. I used a reduced and harden satin from the local hardware store. I considered the POR 15 and decided against it only because it is very unforgiving if I ever refinish in the future.
Hi Can I query what the issue is with POR15 as I was going to use this on the interior and underside. Can it not be painted over? Many thanks Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Por15 is an excellent rust encapsulator and preservative paint. I know of no others that match it for durability. Unless you finish with the top coat however, it is not UV resistant and may grey and chalk up on the surface. It provides a finish like clear coated urethane, but by its nature, does not take to re-coat well. POR15 sells a product called Tie-Coat Primer that solves the problem. Scuff your cured POR15 with Scotch Bright red, clean with their cleaner (a water soluble concentrate) and apply one thin but wet coat of diluted Tie Coat and you won’t have a problem.
I should add, Use POR15 as a system, don’t mix other solvents, cleaners or primers for best results. I have however, found Picklex 20 to be fully compatible with it and use that as an etch wash, under the POR15 rust preservative. POR sells an etch wash, but it must be rinsed with water before top coating. Picklex 20 is not rinsed, spray it on thinly, leave 3-5 minutes and wipe dry with shop towels. If you want to paint immediately, use a heat gun to ensure its dry (wear a respirator, it is an acid based product), if not, it is a rust protection itself as long as it doesn’t get wet. I have bare metal parts in a damp outside shed that have not surface rusted in years, treated with Picklex.
Hi Andy D. I do understand that POR 15 is a quality product. Honestly I have never applied it myself, I have refinished pieces/parts that had previously been painted using the POR paint. I found that prepping the part was very difficult as it is rock hard. I personally have experienced adhesion issues even after sanding/scuffing/cleaning. Plus I like satin/flat finishes. POR cures very glossy.
That por 15 is tough paint. I've used it on rusted oil pans and gas tanks, sealed up the pinholes. The problem is the sun will turn it to dust. I was told you could top coat it before it completely dried. I dont know if this would work I think it would but I've never tried it Sent from my SM-T510 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks for the info, I think I will have the area media blasted (with controlled pressure!) and use chassis black which has a satin finish anyway. POR15 seems to be pushed on a couple of sites i have been on so hence wanting some feed back, so many thanks
POR 15 works poorly on new metal, or smooth metal. It works great over rust, or roughed metal that it grips well to. I have used plain old Rustoleum satin black or gloss black on chassis, internal floors, etc., and I like it a lot. Never had any issues sticking, and after over a decade my oldest painted undercarriage still looks almost new.
I used Rural Kings Matte Black tractor paint. I you add their hardner you get a satin finish as you can see in my aviator.
I have been working out how the interior goes back together in the 63. When I had bought the car it was completely disassembled and there were parts from a second doner car. The rear bench seat is in amazing shape while my junkie bronco buckets are not...... a facebook in search of, was posted. Thanks to Rick for the response. I got 1967 chevy nova ss buckets in original very very good condition for a very very very good price! Very excited about these seats and will complement the interior nicely!
Are you kidding me! You won the lottery. Do you know that finding even a "ragged" pair of 67 Nova SS bucket seats is a huge find. Those are NICE!
I have that same mr gasket shifter sitting on a shelf in my shop, no idea where I got it or anything about it! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That's funny Fargo! I am in the same position as you. No idea what it is or where it's from lol. Does yours possible have the cover? If so could I get you to take a picture of it for me? Thanks and enjoy!
Thanks DDDenny. Honestly I didn't realize I hit the jackpot. I paid 300 and thought that was a good fair price. Better head out and get a lotto ticket today. Lol.
Wow great find!! Let me know if you have any questions on the interior! Hey if you find a great deal on a L-79 for a nova let me know Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thanks Novamad. I think I have her all worked out including the headliner. Not sure the casting numbers on an L-79...... I do have a guy I can ask.
Well have been busy doing everything but work on the 63.... I managed to get the 67 buckets seat in and mounted along with building another shifter mount. I am happy with the location of the seats and the shifter so now moving on to bending up a shifter cover. Progress but slow!
Not much to say here....... an early Weiand "SAY WHY AND" tunnel ram, two 600 holleys, linkage and wicked cool gold stacks.
This evening I tinkered a bit with the throttle linkage and return spring which I was able to repurpose from my single carb c3b setup. The throttle linkage is close. It operates smoothly but I think I am going to adjust it a bit lowering the rear portion to be level. Otherwise I spent some time bending up the shifter cover and riveting the corners. Overall I am happy with how it turned out. Definitely learned a lot bending without a nice metal break. I will make a bezel to go around the shifter arm along with a dust shield of some sort to finish it off.
The Jalopy Journal
