Excuse me if this has been covered before, I searched but couldn't find info. Is bolting on 32 brakes onto a model A a straightforward job? Just want to make sure I have collected all the parts I will need. Trying to start and finish it in one shot. Have the whole backing plate/hub/drum assembly and 32 spindles with model A kingpins and axle.
Does your finished vision also include seat covers made out of Pampers? Or aren't you going to drive it? Envision some jackass on their phone pulling a stunt on the road right in front of you.
Alright, everyone calm down. You are not talking to someone that doesn't know his ass from his elbows. I understand everyone's point of view on juice vs mechanical, I have built cars with both, along with disk brakes, chutes on lsr vehicles, etc etc. I am requesting information from people that may know the answer to my question. Thanks in advance.
I know man I was just screwing with ya. It's dangerous out there. To be fair, my brother was building a pre war lake car with mechanicals and I told him he was nuts. After we replaced everything that was worn out they were better. Worn parts are probably part of the reason they get such a bad rap. I understand going for a specific period though. Good luck.
I think you must check to see if the brake actuator cross shafts align correctly, do you use the A ones or the 32 ones?
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62749&highlight=1932+brakes&showall=1 Look that over and follow the links...there are a fair number of pics on the mix-and-match. '32 brakes are actually pretty good, and it's cool to have four wheel braking on the hand lever, too. Most problems are from wear...with all the linkage and moving parts there are about a zillion wear points, and if each one has a tiny bit of slop it can stack up fast.
So, a revival of (yet another) old thread- my quick search only came up with this thread on the matter of ‘32 brakes in a model A. I just bought ‘32 front brakes to put on a model A, but; when looking in my A-‘33 parts catalogue, they only list one brake actuating rod- the one going inside the king pin- under Ford no. A-2075. But when looking in my A-‘37 parts catalogue, they list a B-version too; B-2075, to be used in ‘32-‘34 models. Can anyone help me identify the differences and need, when puting B-brakes on a model A? Keep ‘em kruzin! Dannerr
I put 32 brakes on my old coupe. Front I used 32 heavy beam 32-34 spring perch bolts Model A spindles and kingpins 32 backing plates and drums Model A actuators Model A brake rods Rear 32 brakes complete onto model a rear end. I had to mill the back of the drum andibused brass shim material on the axle taper. Without thise 2 things when I torqued the axle bolt the drum would bind up. I also had to do something where the brake rod clevis attatched to the rear levers but I don't remember what. Theres was some minor clearance issue but I can't remember
I didn't do this conversion, but I do own the car. Like all mechanical brakes, there is no 'feeling' in the brakes, but it pulls up well.
Hi Adam. Sound like my plan on the front. But... What about the brake push rods, that sits inside the king pin- the one, the A actuator actuates? View attachment 4960096 Has A’s, just need to make sure, I have all the needed parts, before I have them shipped from US to DK. UPDATE: found the length of the B’s mentioned on Fordbarn to be 7 3/4”, now I just need to find one of my A’s and measure that. Keep ‘em kruzin! Dannerr View attachment 4960097
Man its been a while. I hate to tell you the wrong thing but I feel like I used the model A rods. Its been like 12 years since I built that car and my memory is a little fuzzy
The brake actuators for a 32 and model A should be real close honestly, If you do the 32 front axle etc then its no problem just get the 32, I have a set of 32 backing plates in the attic, Ill have to do some measuring but I think alot of the parts interchange, The 32 is only a fraction larger than the stock A drums. If I know Henry they didnt change much out between them, If you put the 32 plates on the A axle, there is enough adjustment in the wedge that it shouldnt be any issue, may have to put a few shims on the actuator rod but they sell those and are only a few bucks. Keep the actuator cams a bit forward of 90 degrees vertical for optimal leverage. Regarding Mech brakes, when adjusted and in proper working order, they work damn great... If they can lock all 4, and skid tires, then whats the difference if juice brakes can do the same? The largest difference is brake fade on the drums, and will happen to juice brakes also just not as fast. So in really hilly driving the juice have an advantage, but I run Mech on my Model As with no issues. The biggest point I can say is don't just go doing adjuster adjustments on the backing plates, Get all rods 100% adjusted correctly and then everything works PERFECT. Here is mine, My buddy was Anti Mech before helping me on this build, he was like, "Flathead V8 and Mech is too sketchy for me" After riding and driving it he is now a believer they can be made to work. Here he is driving it out of the show.... Best of luck on it man. Look forward to seeing it all working and on the road....
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