Technical Good Primer for Blasted Metal

Hello going to be de-rusting some Model A panels soon and doing metal work.

What's a good sealer primer or any kind of primer you guys are using for that application to preserve after metal work?

I used to use just red oxide but I'm sure things have come a long way since.

Thanks

 

I use PPG DP90. Pricey but good stuff.

 

PPG DP90 which is black. You can get it other tints. Metal wash using their DX products. I use USC Allmetal filler on the bare metal. You can metal wash over that product. Plastic filler can be used over DP. Yes, it is expensive.

 

Epoxy, DP primers are the primer for sandblasted surfaces!

 

Absolutely, DP90 is the way to go.

 

CRE-321 from PPG. Awesome epoxy primer.
I've been applying it with a roller too. WAY less messy in the shop

 

red oxide is a color...it could be lacquer, enamel, urethane, epoxy, etc.

How much work do you have to do to the parts after blasting and priming? How much moisture will they see? How nice are you going to do the body and paint work on this car? maybe there's a one size fits all answer, but I would think about things a bit before committing to something.

 

I usually use etching primer with fresh blasted metal, then work the metal, you can re-prime when your ready to paint. HRP

 

Squirrel, that's why I'm asking.

Sounds like DP90 is in the running.

 

Souther Polyurethane Epoxy
Or PPG industrial epoxy. It’s 1:1 like the real DP used to be. Lays down better.

the industrial epoxy cost me around $125 for a 2 gallon kit.
I prefer it over the DPlf which is not the same as the old DP most of us used back in the day.

For a lower cost to keep parts from rusting while you build, the cheap 5 star epoxy works great.

 

Always used PPG DP epoxy. It is proven. Sandblasted a chassis, primed with DP primer, sat in elements for about 6 years. No rust came through, lost its luster but protected the metal.

 

I agree with millersgarage except I use CRE 921 Black epoxy, I use it when I surface treat with acid to remove rust.
I use SPI black epoxy when its just bare metal. Both of these are outstanding primers in my opinion.
I used to use DP40 back in the day but the PPG industrial CRE line is really good and much cheaper.
The black sprays out to a semi-gloss and has great fill qualities.

 

hmmmm...I was hinting that if you gave us more info about your project, we could give you a better answer. But I guess that's not important.

 

I also like this polyester

 

okay a little more info

I will be blasting the metal clean installing patches and then I want to seal that to move on to the next part. I'm kind of doing one piece at a time. I won't be able to put filler on within the week time frame. It looks like I can do a scuff and apply filler over the DP 90 primer.

Thank you all for the suggestions keep them coming!

 

Ton of info on filler and epoxy here
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/when-to-apply-body-filler.1194016/page-3#post-13588451

 

SPI, southern polyurethanes.

And I have DP90LF on my current project, switching to SPI for the next one.

For reference, you can get it in cruddy red as well.
DP40LF (Gray-Green), DP48LF (White), DP50LF (Gray), DP60LF (Blue), DP74LF (Red Oxide), and DP90LF (Black)

 

E P O X Y.

VR&C.

 

SPI epoxy

 

Another vote here for PPG CRE epoxy. It’s part of their industrial line of products. It has about twice the filling properties than the DP products at about half the price. It also sands easily. The DP lead free epoxy of today is simply not as good as the old DP. It will turn loose in tight inside corners if you happen to get it on the least bit too heavy.

 

DP90 is what I have on hand and have used it for dozens of projects. Its great for keeping flash rust from forming until you are ready to move on to a high build primer or filler where needed. A light scuff with 180 paper will make sure that good adhesion is achieved if the DP90 has been applied for an extended period. If being kept outside in the elements two light coats will protect it.

 

I’m not a fan of the new DP either.

 

This question was just asked last week and answered by the same people.SEARCH!

 

Used to use DP90 but found a better product.
Axalta DTM 2590. DP 90 fades badly if subjected to UV. You can run 2590 as a topcoat and it stays semi gloss.
Great stuff and tough as hell.

 

I’m not a painter but have painted a few race cars. From experience is would stick to the same brand you are planning on using for the final paint. I’ve had cars that bubbled because products were not compatible. Good luck

 

Sorry man! I'm on here frequently, I honestly didn't see. Nobody said checkout another thread.

 

I use Master series rust paint!
Great base!
The guy that does my sand blasting, will spray
it on for me right after blasting.
Good stuff!