Technical Welding on Frame

Youve gotten plenty of input on axles. Frame Repair - Agree on welding in sections at a time. Do you have a way to set it up and square it. Id suggest squaring up the frame, repairing a section, verifying square, and keep going. Dont let it run away on you.

Lets see the frames youre working with.

 

Ok here are the sides in question

 

What's the total length of the effected area ? If it's very long I'd do it all in one piece, make your pattern, check fit of pattern. Transfer pattern to replacement metal. Finish out replacement piece. Set replacement piece on frame and transfer design to frame. Only then cut your frame and install piece.

Also with as long as it looks, support the entire frame on all four corners and make sure it's level all the way around. Not on suspension but on the frame itself. Once your happy with its support and level. Add a hydraulic hand jack at each end of where your cuts will be and just put alittle pressure against the frame. The idea is to keep the frame totally supported and to keep it from wanting to bow where your cutting. By making your pattern first and cutting rail second you should be able to slip your new piece into the hole and it should fit perfectly, if the frame sags or moves you should be able to see it when you fit your piece.

Also bevel the edges of the frame and replacement piece to allow a good weld.

I've fixed more rusted frames then I can count.

 

It was to show the o.p. that my advice came from many many years of experience. Working on everything from 8 second race cars, to hot rods, to semi tractors. Not something I read in a book, watched on gas monkey garage, bitchin rides but actual hands on experience. But I guess you wouldn't understand that....

 

Personally I would rather to frame work than body work, I can do both but to me frame work is the simpler of the two.
Virtually any frame can be fixed if you have the time, talent and dedication.
If you have a good frame though why not use it?
And I definitely vote for the straight axle. Good luck!

 

Ive got a 40 2dr with mII front end and a 38 sedan delivery with a with the beam axle & unisteer rack I am going with the latter on my 36 ute

 

I am going with the beam axle, lowered, and parallel leaf springs and 8.8 rear end. I will mig weld the frame little at a time, I will make a template as lostone mentioned.
Thanks everyone for the imput, I will supply photos when completed.

 

I used cut off blade on die-grinder, and a saw with blade took a while with .100 thickness. Going to change from .023 to .030 thickness on wire size should help fill gap better.

 

You have some work in front of you...but it's not impossible. Check the first page of my build thread to see similar frame repairs (the link is below in my signature block). From what I see in your picture, you have more rusted frame section to remove. I would keep the cuts square and simple.

I too use .030 wire in my mig welder. Make sure your mig welder has enough power to really penetrate your frame and patches.

 

Holy shit, it didn't really take you three years to make that patch panel did it?

Keep at it, expertise only comes with practice.

-Abone.

 

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I would suggest rounded corners, not square.

 

Yes, fair on the rounded corners...poor choice of words on my part...I was thinking more about keeping the patches symetrically shaped rather than the irregularly shaped patch that @allanjon has embarked upon

 

Man you need to stop and think about this a minute. This patch is on your frame, and that is the foundation of the Hot Rod. So why not do this--grind the very little weld you have on that now remove that patch and just start over. Another panel to fill that won't take but 10 or 15 minutes to make, you then will have a good fit and it will be much easier to weld up. It will be 10 times stronger that way .

 

Ok looked at your build , fine work what did you use to cut the frame?

 

Thanks, I used a cutting disc and a sawzall.

 

lmao so true

 

sraight axles ride as good as m2. Had both, prefer straight axle.

 

Ask yourself:

Do I want disc brakes?
Power steering?
Tune-able suspension (coil overs)?

Then you'll have your answer. Do what suits what you want, not what other people think you should want. You can't see it under a fat-fendered Ford anyways, so who cares.

 

I had a '48 Mercury coupe, stock everything, I-beam axle, suspension, steering, except the engine which was hooked to the original three speed. I didn't have any hang ups driving it other than the non-sychro 1st gear took a bit of getting used to..... and the rear HOOO-DAY shocks were a little bouncy sometimes. The stock front rotary hydraulics worked great though.

I did put F-100 brakes on the front, although that was because I had a good setup laying around so it cost me nothing to install. I put new hydraulics and shoes on the rear.

Metal can be fixed easy, frames are one of my favorite things to weld on unless I'm under it when making the sparks fly!!