Technical Looking for fuse block ideas for my '49 F1 project, starting from scratch

Good day all,

I am working my way thru a complete rebuild of my '49 Ford F-1 and I am starting from scratch with the electrical. The entire truck has been stripped of all things wiring by the PO and I am left to figure out the best way to wire this. I am an electronics/electrical tech so no problem with the actual wiring, what I am looking for is a nice fuse block that will either live under the dash or in the engine bay, but I am having a hard time deciding which way to go, wreckers for good used one, or new.

I have spent a few days researching new ones, from Digikey, Mouser etc. and have a found a few from Bussman, Littelfuse and TE Conectivity, but they all come just as the plastic housing then you need to figure all the contacts and wire sizes and such...some of the terminals are quite pricey and the whole block assembled could wind up $200-$400. Now I know this is one of the most important systems in a vehicle, but there must be a pre-assembled unit out there (NOT cheap crap from Amazon) that is more reasonable. I found some old threads here but a lot of the links and such are dead links.

So I'm looking for some guidance, fuse blocks you have used, or vehicles that may have a nice easy to use donor fuse block. There's lots of snow here still so the wrecking yards will have to wait for a month or so. I will have a few added circuits that weren't on the truck such as electric fan, electric power steering etc. but they will have their own relays. Ideally I would like a block that has relay sockets and signal flasher socket, prefer ATC blades but will consider AGC glass type.

Any and all ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

 

I have always been a fan of using complete wiring harnesses from Painless or one of their competitors. You are going to spend the same money ($300 + or -) as piecing it out your self. Otherwise good luck and keep that Digikey account open.

 

I like no frills, basic box and harness if I'm not making my own. I've used a Rebel wire kit (9+3) on 3 cars, plain, easy to modify and they're a HAMB vendor. They also have a fuse box kit for $180 if you want to just start from there.

 

Lots of choices here-
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1612/Fuse-Blocks/
I use these, $2.84 from RockAuto, connect as many together as needed. I know flasher sockets exist that attach also because some wiring kits use them but no idea where to get them.

 

Get the waytekwire.com catalog and order direct. Sounds like you have the skill. There was a good one posted the other day using parts from a boat supplier, I will see if I can dig it up.

 

From @Nailhead Jason s thread. One of the best DIY panels I have seen

↑
Nice work especially in this heat wave. Curious about the electric panel. Where did you source that from or did you build it yourself?
I made the electrics panel from some boat fuse blocks and terminal blocks I sourced on amazon, and mounted them all to a cutting board I bought from the dollar store. Since I am using the original head light switch and the column drop switch I couldn't see buying a harness for a couple hundred bucks just to cut it all up. So I made this one. Between all the wire I bought,the fuse panel, terminals and original switch parts I have less than 100 bucks in rewiring the whole car.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/bringing-my-39-back-to-life.1018747/
NAILHEAD JASON, JUL 21, 2019!REPORT!

 

i have used multiple different fuse/relay boxes/solutions on multiple different vehicles. mainly depends on personal preference I think.

first, i dont think i would use a box from a donor vehicle, because then you are almost "stuck" with that layout of what fuse goes to what item, due to the printed layout on the cover of the box. unless you dont mind of course.

my latest custom project (which I also completely re-wired the entire vehicle) utilized the following box under the hood:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Slot-Re...781676?hash=item3b1e61936c:g:e6YAAOSwS~FbtJlI

and 2 of these in the glove box:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Way-DC32...988821&hash=item1ce5f89bae:g:SkkAAOSwW8lebGC6

This was because I wanted the vehicle to have a "normal" setup, with a fuse/relay box under the hood, and fuses for interior items in the interior of the vehicle. The only thing I don't like about that specific under-hood fuse and relay box, is one of the relays is some kind of special relay, and a normal Bosch style relay will not fit in that slot. but the other 5 are normal Bosch style.

I have also used something similar to the first one for an entire vehicle, which had 12 relays and 24 fuses, or something like that.

I just got done re-wiring a small camping trailer with one like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6Way-Auto-...113444?hash=item4223e5f0a4:g:N94AAOSwxzxfpL1V

Very simple to use, but no spots for relays.

I'd take these over a donor fuse box because it allows me to customize it how I want, and use whatever AWG wire is appropriate for that circuit to fit my needs, and i can use brand new wiring.

 

when i had my racecar (again, re-wired the whole car from scratch), I used an ARC8000D panel:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arc-8000d

well worth the money in a racecar application...it was so simple to use. but i'm sure you don't want to have a big control panel like that to control everything...

fun fact, a few years ago I guess those panels weren't as popular and could be had for under $300....now they are getting much more popular and prices are going way up!

 

Thanks man, I like doing wiring and will make my future fuse boxes the same as this one. Has worked great.

 

I think I will do similar on my GMC. Thanks

 

When I wire a car from scratch, I mount with the fuse panel a terminal block for all the wires that run forward through the firewall, and another terminal block for all the wires running to the back of the car. That way you deal with more manageable lengths of wire and looks impressive to the great unwashed multitudes that see it later.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Wow guys! Thank you so much for all the replies, there is a lot to digest here. I just got back in the house after I finished wiring up my Toyota MR2 power steering in the old Ford, that is such a cool unit. I will read all the thread and check out the links in the morning, thank you for all of that.

Cheers

 

I have used this panel from Coach Controls for 3 builds now and I love it. They make 3 versions, nice and spendy, overkill and spendy and ridiculous overkill and spendy. This is overkill, I installed it in the drivers door side seat riser in my PU I am building. All the relays, flashers, fuses, anyone would ever need in a tight panel. Probably the most expensive out there but when cheap and iffy costs $200, a few hundred more for this level of quality is worth it...to me anyway. But then again I have issues.

 

Thanks Bandit Billy, you just gave me another idea....we have a big semi wrecking yard around here and there may be some nice industrial type panels like this installed in them...when it stops snowing, I'll go have a look.

Still researching all the links you guys suggested....lots to look at.

Cheers

 

I'd consider a WUPP marine fuse block as a basis, and then wire it as you like. They're cheap, clean, and have a nice terminal strip to land hots and grounds. At $22 from Amazon they're a great start for people who have the skills to do the rest.

https://www.amazon.com/WUPP-Blade-Warning-Indicator-Damp-Proof/dp/B07GBST5NX

 

The power steering stuff is neat but falls into the OT category here just so you know.

 

Totally doing this on my GMC

 

Crazy Steve has posted a series on wiring...."Wiring 101" I believe. It's well worth a look.
I'm running the original 6V style harness in my Coupe...

For a new harness of any type; 6V repro or 12V modern, I recommend you use 6V rated wire.

 

I'm working my way thru it right now. 17 pages...good info in there. thx

 

As mentioned above; several fuse blocks connected together along with relays and breakers; you can make a panel to match your exact electrical needs.

 

All the cars ive built, I used 67 to 72 chevy truck harness. simple to remove and install. plenty of length and use a chevy manual for troubleshooting. not just the cheap in me but the factory stuff is reliable.

 

^^^I've done the same, using american autowire harnesses.

 

Just buy a reasonably priced kit and use it. By the time you buy a fuse panel, the correct size and color wiring, and the special connectors, relays, and such, it's cheaper and faster. AND you'll have wires that are printed with the circuit they are controlling (and the correct color, at least for a GM harness), a HUGE bonus when diagnosing problems.

 

I don't think the issue is so much which panel you chose as the need to acquire wire in many different colors....unless you plan to do like the airplane builders and use only one color. The need to purchase different colors and sizes to run your circuits will quickly run your budget up over the cost of a pre-wired harness from one of the better known suppliers. All the connectors will add to that cost. Its really not financially feasible to build a comparable equivalent harness from scratch. While I understand your desire to use your talents to build your own harness, it may not be the best way to go. Then you also get the benefit of labeled wires. I would see about ordering catalogs from several companies where you can study what they offer and compare what each one offers. Painless and Ron Francis are good starting points.

 

It's been 15 or so years since doing my last scratch wiring. It didn't pay off, no money saved after sourcing out correct terminals and all correct wire gauge and colors. If there's another re-wire down the road for me? It'll be a complete wire harness all ready made. Just had to throw it out there. Your call.

 

My next scratch build will be cloth covered wiring for the '28, so a glass fuse box will be used. Don't forget to look into marine products, Blue Sea makes pretty nice fuse boxes (blade style).

 

I don't think anybody has mentioned this. Crosslink wires. I copied this rather than composing. This is the best so if you have wires in high heat areas, it doesn't fail. A high quality kit will have this:
The high temperature Cross-Link Wire is available in three insulation sizes: SXL, GXL, and TXL. The SXL wire has the thickest insulation to withstand prolonged extreme temperatures. The GXL wire has a medium-thickness insulation to resist fusing and melting. Finally, the TXL wire has the thinnest insulation to provide minimal diameter and weight to the wire.

 

I’m on my phone and searching sucks But is the 9+3 nine wires from the panel, then 3 open spots to add onto?

 

...these are hard to find now, but they work well for a basic car,,,come from mid 60's American Motors cars and some jeeps...old school glass fuses, push-on terminals, all lettered for each circuit...
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