I am going to do the interior of my 1937 Ford coupe myself. I was thinking the 1/8" hardboard panels at Menards might work for the inside doors and inside quarter panels, trunk. I want to glue some tuck and roll vinyl to it. Or is there something better to use? I am also going to make some steel bomber seats for it. It's the short coupe, no rear seat. thanks for any help.
I buy Eucatile (spelling?) panels in .090" thickness 4'x8' sheets from Home Depot for $16 a sheet. They have a texture on one side, and smooth on the other. Easy to cut with circular saw, or jigsaw, and resists moisture. They work great if your material doesn't need and cuts under the fabric that get shaped. FRP board in 3/8" thickness works also if someone needs to cut contours into the board. But sometimes 3/8" is too thick for many applications.
I've used the door skin material from the lumber store for door panels, trunk panels etc. Cuts and sands easy. Some call it Luan, but whatever, it's available and works. I do have some thin ABS sheets fro next job, to try.
I do the same as member 1971BB427. Really easy to use and multiple ways to mount the panels. Here is an example.
There maybe a few ideas you can use,out of my old HAMB tech; https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-sew-at-home-upholsrety-hot-rod.604077/
I've used Luan as door panels and it works great as long as the panel is perfectly flat. I once made up some for a '54 Chevy which the panel is slightly concave, and it refused to take the shape of the curve. To the point I screwed the panel down to the door and the Luan board blew the heads off of the screws to return to it's flat shape. I've also used that paneling stuff you'd put in a cheap bathroom remodel, not sure what it's called but it's shiny and usually has a pattern on one side and it's brown particle style material on the back, that stuff is more flexible and makes a nice door panel. If you face the shiny side out, it's good for repelling moisture, since the coated side is waterproof.
I use ABS 1/8 in. thick. It works great . With a heat gun you can make it take a contour or even tight 90 degree bends. I used it on inside around the rear window of my 32 5 window coupe. I used it in all the cars I build. NO PROBLEMS. I would be afraid the Hardboard would warp if it became damp. The ABS glues good & you can staple it as long as you don"t run long lines.( it will break on the dotted line but glue holds good if you sand the shine off the ABS) It is more costly But you do not worry about it getting damp & having to do it over again.. Buy a sheet & give it a try.
Google your local plastics distributor and buy Palite foam PVC sheet. You can buy it in 3mm(1/8") and in sheets 4'x8'. If you need to, you can heat it with a heat gun and bend it. It won't warp and it won't crack. I bought 2 sheets today. I paid about 64 bucks for the two.
I recommend waterproof panel board and if you have a upholstery shop by you it’s pretty cheap and works great. I use the panel board when available but use 1/8 luan as well. It is also available as flex panel and can do a tight radius . I have used pvc plastic panel but with mixed results. I noticed over time the bond would cut loose some.
Been using water proof panel board for 30 years. Anchor it good with good clips and it will last. This has been done for 25 years with 60,000 miles of use.
Waterproof panel board from your upholstery supplier or FRP board from your local hardware store. Wood is nice, but why use it when there's other stuff that will hold up to moisture so much better