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Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by J.Ukrop, Sep 7, 2020.

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  1. barrnone50
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 571

    barrnone50
    Member
    from texas

     
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  2. If the car runs fine then quits, I bet it is either the condenser or the coil. If fuel clean the tank and install a pencil filter in the tank and magnet in the fuel bowl.

    Mike
     
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  3. Seattle speed shop on those parts...cough cough

    It's looking great dude!
     
  4. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    If the boys are making their own seats use an electric turkey carving knife to cut the foam...
    works great...
     
  5. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,833

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Thanks for the seat pictures. They my help me build my seat.
    In the '60s I was racing a 1/2 midget that was quick enough to set the track record in time trials but would't run long enough to finish a heat race. Brand new Mac10 two stroke engine. I finally figured out that the rubber fuel line was vibrating so fast that the fuel wouldn't run through it. Ran it through a bigger line and it was fine. Fuel starved stuck may head. A few years ago my old Blazer had been sitting a while and it would run a while and stop, sit a while and start so I thought fuel. Turned out to be a bad brand new coil. They acted a lot the same.
     
  6. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,816

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    The coil is a new, high-output unit from FSI. If the problem persists with the new setup, I will look into a coil issue. I'm excited to say that the fuel pump is one of the next items on the list. Seeing that I'm surrounded by hills on all sides, I think that will help big time.

    Very cool. I think I am going to build my next seat from scratch, so that is good information to have.

    Thanks, Tim! Haha you caught me on the job. Wish we could have connected to catch up. As much as I like the idea of lowering it, I feel like it may not be worth tearing down the suspension in the foreseeable future. Now if I had a shop to work in, that might be a different story.

    Thank you! It was a gift from my brother years ago. Still dangerously sharp and extremely useful. No earthquake retrofit at this time. We got a new garage door! You can get the full story on the Journal here.
    Roadster and Garage.jpg
    Thank you! Good idea about the blockage. When I take it apart to install the fuel pump, I'll make sure the petcock and fuel line is clean. I'm with you on the top. It takes on a whole new persona.
     
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  7. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,816

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Hahah @barrnone50 I don't think it even had doors at the time.

    No condenser on this car. It has electronic ignition from FSI. It very well could be the coil, but it's suspect that it dies specifically on hills. I will give the tank another rinse when I have everything apart to do the fuel pump.

    Thank you! I'm always keeping Seattle Speed in mind!

    It's like Thanksgiving dinner all over again. Great idea.

    It only running a 1/4-inch fuel line from the filter to the carb at this time. I may need to bump it up if the problem persists. We shall see!
     
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  8. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,197

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    You could get the rear that low with a T spring and the front pretty close with just a spring as well. But all the work it would take to keep the mechanical brakes probably wouldn’t be worth the added “cool”

    looks killer the way it is. Just had to play cus I could :)
     
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  9. flat-ed
    Joined: Oct 19, 2020
    Posts: 13

    flat-ed

    loved following the build!
     
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  10. neds29
    Joined: Dec 25, 2013
    Posts: 75

    neds29
    Member

    Great story, thanks for posting.
     
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  11. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,833

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Is your filter clear? I thought I had cleaned the Blazer tank pretty well then after a week or so of sloshing fuel in the old tank the filter clogged. It was packed full if rusty crap. With no pump and a 1/4" line it wouldn't take much of an obstruction.
    At least it's not a T with the tank under the seat. You'd be backing all over town! I hadn't thought about how the mechanical brakes would make lowering it more difficult.
    Great picture with the top!
     
  12. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,889

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Another view of Jack Greiner's 32. I called him last weekend, he is 92 now, and still very sharp ! 2013-12-19 094214.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2021
  13. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,833

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Does he still have the roadster? 92? Maybe there's time for my roadster yet! :eek:
     
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  14. modelacrazy
    Joined: Feb 24, 2011
    Posts: 106

    modelacrazy
    Member

    A little nip and tuck and that top will be PERFECT!
     
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  15. Hotrodmyk
    Joined: Jan 7, 2011
    Posts: 2,307

    Hotrodmyk
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

  16. Nice job on the seat. It gets the Lindsey seal of approval, but how comfortable does it sit?
     
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  17. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,789

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The real test of the seal of approval is when you drive across the Golden Gate to cruise up the coast for a picnic over looking the ocean. The entire mood will be shot if the seat turns out to not so worthy of "approval"
     
  18. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,833

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Yeah! By the time you get to Bolinas you'll know how the seats work.
     
  19. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,889

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Nah, he sold it in late '47 or '48.
     
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  20. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,816

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Thanks for tuning in. I have some pretty exciting things planned for the coming months!

    Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Plenty more stories on the way.

    The filter is clean, and the gas flows into the carb. New pump and some of the tubing has arrived. I'm still waiting on my flaring tool, but the pieces are coming together.

    So so cool. Was that a Portland car? It's interesting how similar that top is to mine. Even the rivet/attachment points and the seams appear to be pretty close. I wonder if this was some sort of aftermarket top available at the time? Maybe Jack may recall. IMG_2595.jpg
    Thank you! I'm so excited that I unearthed it. I love how the car looks with it. It gives it a totally different profile.

    Thanks for the heads up. I'll check it out!

    Hahah fair questions! We both give it pretty high marks for comfort, but a longer ride will tell the tale. That being said, Lindsey and I have covered some serious miles over just about every terrain on my survivor Ironhead chopper; almost anything is more comfortable than that!
     
  21. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,816

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Well, it's been quite the weekend with the car. Busy? Yes. Productive. Eh, not so much. Now that we have our new garage doors, I was able to get everything set up and organized just like it was. Once that was done, I rolled the roadster out and prepared to install the new brake shoes, springs, Timken bearings and drums. In addition, I wanted to go with the Flathead Ted full floating brake setup.

    Last week, I spent a few nights studying how everything was to go together. Research, then dry assembly on the kitchen table after breakfast. You know how it goes. The plan was to do one brake Saturday and one Sunday—just taking it slow and learning. Well, I did some learning, that's for sure.
    IMG_2640.jpg
    The whole thing was way harder than I expected. Over the course of two long days, I managed to only get one of them on—and I'm pretty sure it has to come apart again. I'm almost embarrassed to post this, but it's important to share every aspect of this build. Even the not-so-great ones.

    For this project, there were problems from all sides. First and foremost, the instructions provided by Flathead Ted were confusing. Day #1 was spent tearing down the old front brake setup and trying to make sense of the convoluted directions. It was clear that someone had done a brake job in the past 90 years and, even though all the pieces were there, I had to go through and tighten bolts, add new cotter pins and apply fresh LocTite. After the sun went down, I discovered that I was not alone in my frustration with the instructions, and I found some more suitable ones online.

    Today, I approached the brakes with fresh eyes and a can-do attitude. Well, that didn't exactly go as planned. As I put the new setup together, I realized some uneven wear in the upper adjusting shafts. Rather than throw in the towel, I scavenged one from another set of brakes that I had on hand. It was fun digging into them and finding the parts that I assumed would make the brakes work as advertised. From there, I spent the remainder of the afternoon installing, testing, cutting, grinding, sweating, swearing and wondering how the hell these things are supposed to actually work. By the time it got dark, I had everything re-assembled.

    This is what I started with:
    IMG_2641.jpg
    Then this: IMG_2642.jpg
    Getting some parts... IMG_2648.jpg
    A lot of work to get to this point:
    IMG_2649.jpg
    With the new bearings greased and installed, I found that the wheel has more resistance when spun than the previous setup—unless I have the spindle nut looser than I feel comfortable with. With the spindle nut tighter, it increases the resistance. I used green grease, which I understand is waterproof, high heat resistant and ideal for trailer wheel bearings. Do you think I just need to drive it a bit for the resistance go down?

    I feel like you guys might get a kick out of this last part.

    So what's the best way to test your new brake? How about reversing down your driveway and seeing how you stop. How'd it do? Wayyyy better. I then shifted into first and gave it some gas—right towards the new garage door opening. Again, another great stop. Encouraging stuff.

    Closing thoughts: after thinking about the assembly, I realized that the brake operating pin needed an aftermarket shim to get the upper brake arm at the correct angle, and that the brake adjustment shafts may have been excessively worn. Those pieces are relatively cheap to replace, so I figure I will order them and give it another shot.

    At this point, should I just have gotten juice brakes? Yes. But I have a plan, and I'm doing everything I can to stick with it and keep on making progress—even if it is a little bit at a time.

    Just like they say, "The good things are hard, and the hard things are good." I'll keep that in mind.
     
  22. jbwthree
    Joined: Oct 21, 2020
    Posts: 1

    jbwthree

    First of all, I found this thread a few days ago and really enjoyed reading through the entirety of it. Good vibes all around and a fun project to watch take shape. I have a mostly stock ‘30 A Tudor and I will someday build an AV8 and I had thought about the same multi-stage path you have taken.

    On the Ted’s floaters, I saw a similar post about the poor instructions the other day and there are some supplemental instructions that have been created:

    https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=292908

    Keep up the great work !


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  23. Joey,
    Remember a few pages ago I mentioned you have a lifetime ahead of you!
    Look at your brakes this way. When you do change to juice brakes, you will
    have a ready to bolt on set of mechanical brakes to bolt on to the next A you get!
     
  24. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 4,036

    RodStRace
    Member

    This will be the stuff you remember and pass along to the next rodder, not the easy stuff!
     
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  25. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,889

    Marty Strode
    Member

  26. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,393

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Joey,
    You are doing great, actually impressive. FHTed's floaters are only part of the formula and you've figured that addressing the worn components, that solve restoring the brake linkage geometry, are key to good functioning mechanical brakes. You are way ahead of the class!
    With proper set up mechanical brakes and floaters, you should be able to lock up all 4. It comes down to tire contact area with the pavement then....same as juice brakes. You are ahead, right now, because the car wouldn't be a roller again, right away if you were installing juice brakes. You are sticking to the planned path and that is allowing you to gain knowledge that there isn't any other way to obtain. The next wheel will go faster because now you have experience. Thanks for sharing the good with the bad...this is a GENUINE reality show!
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2021
  27. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,242

    Budget36
    Member

    Here’s how I set tapered roller bearings. I use channel locks on the nut and one hand squeezing, then tighten to seat the bearing. The reason I use one hand and channel locks, it you’ll find unless you have a grip of steel, you can’t over torque the nut. Once seated, I back the nut to the first available slot that the cotter pin will drop into.
    That’s how I was taught 45+ years ago, and haven’t lost a wheel bearing yet.
     
  28. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,075

    Beanscoot
    Member

    As for fuel fittings, this manufacturer, of course:

    IMG_3566.JPG

    For hose connections, make sure to use beaded fittings as per OEM, not barbed
    fittings which are more likely to tear the hose when disconnected.


    Weatherhead is now Weatherhead / Eaton. The fittings seem to be identical, but are stamped with either name as ordered.

    Sadly, most of the parts stores seem to have gotten rid of the Weatherhead cabinets but the fittings can be ordered through industrial suppliers such as (some) hydraulics shops.
     
  29. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,816

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Thank you and thanks for following the build! I've learned a whole lot thus far, and I'm looking forward to the build thread on your car soon! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.

    Also, that is a great thread on the 'Barn. I downloaded the Snyders instruction sheet so I can print it out in the morning. I have a lot more reading to do!

    You got it, Tony! My brother has been itching to build a Model A hot rod for the past few years. I think with all my spares we can get him up and running.

    Amen to that. I'm already itching to get back into the brakes even though I said I was going to give it a rest for a day.

    Great article, Marty! Jack's Deuce was extremely cool, as were his other machines. In today's dollars, his top was $760 and the side curtains were $140. Still a great deal. I should ask the previous owner if my top came from the Portland area.

    Thank you! That really really means a lot. I've ordered some replacement parts, talked to friends who have done this before, and I am continuing to research. We will get this figured out.

    Great technique. I will do just that after the brake job is complete!

    Nice, I will look for those. Thank you for the heads up! I would have gravitated towards barbed but I am glad that I know to avoid them.
     
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  30. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,816

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Nothing much to report for today. I exchanged emails with Flathead Ted, made some phone calls and bought a bunch of new parts for the brake system. I forgot to post this, but I also got my fuel pressure gauge that was removed from a fellow H.A.M.B.er's front engined dragster. I need to figure out what NPT it is to buy the fittings. IMG_2629.jpg
    Also, I'm finally getting the finer parts of the fuel and intake roughed in. Everything from the linkage ends to the tubing flaring tool are in the mail. In a similar vein, I have a pretty neat piece of the puzzle coming in the mail tomorrow. Stay tuned!
     

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