Technical The upholstery thread to end all threads

@Roothawg I have wheels on mine with locks so it stays put when I’m ready. The wheels on the machine rise it up 6 inches so its a bit higher. Depending on my project and where I need the feed tables so I can swing the sewing machines around. I have my tables set as the same height as my sewing machine . I do also have a layout table thats 44 inches high waist height.

 

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I have been getting geared up for auto upholstery work. When I was a youngster, my mother did contract work for a tent & awning company and I dabbled in it making custom motorcycle covers and several other projects.
I bought an industrial Juki LU-563 machine that was in great condition but changed out the clutch motor for a 1HP brushless, servo motor and also installed a 45mm pulley to slow it down considerably. I can now sew a single stitch at a time or thousands per minute. It has excellent speed control now which is very important for the less experienced like me. It is a very heavy duty unison walking foot machine with reverse that is very easy to maintain and adjust as well. The next thing I need to do is get a good swivel, rolling stool with a small back for better maneuverability and comfort.
I will be following this thread to pick up as many pointers as I can. First project will be the interior of our Model A coupe with a diamond tufted design but that will likely have to wait for my upcoming shoulder surgery scheduled soon.

 

I have the same machine. Juki LU 563 with a bigger bobbin. Works great. .Speed control is the most important thing when learning. I am doing bodywork on my 28 coupe. As soon as it is painted, I will be doing the upholstery also. Great thread which I hope keeps going. Lot of good information.

Reyn

 

Wow Reyn, I just read your build thread! You are a true artisan! I will stayed tuned, I need the inspiration. Well done!!

 

I was sewing some wool today on an unrelated project and had some difficulty with the material slipping. For those who don't have a walking foot, I got a good tip. Use tissue papper under your bottom layer and it will make the feed dogs less aggressive. When done, tear away

 

@A 2 B A threadstand, a bobbin winder and a wooden peg to rest your machine on when you tilt it back.

 

To see if your machine is a real brute. Top sew(single stitch line)along the edge of your welt(non pleated side) going thru the 3 layers of material, your welt and the foam. I have 3 different welt feet. A welt foot that allows you to sew welt. Or just for plain stitching like a flat foot. A foot with the left side chopped off so you can sew oversized things like windlace and along plastic moldings. Or along the welt for topstitching. And a foot with the right side cut off so you can get up close to things like plastic moldings from the other side. Not used as often.

 

Yep, I have all that. I have been accumulating accessories and the supplies I will need. I have a dozen sets of walking feet. Some may have to be customized. My biggest problem is competing for space in the spare room that my wife has claimed for winter plant storage. My garage is packed to capacity during these winter months as well. I had removed the A body off the chassis before my shoulder injury in August and by the time I recover from the surgery a year will have passed. Luckily my wife is an accomplished seamstress and is more than willing to help. Thanks for the helpful tips.

 

I actually gave an upholstery machine away last year. Well it was actually a sail machine. LOL

If you are serious about upholstery you want a machine with a walking foot. you got to be careful when you are looking. you can buy good machines that will handle the work all day long cheap without a walking foot. Wanna sew long straight lines you need the foot.

 

@A 2 B You everything laid out nice. But you forgot one important thing. Sewing machine oil. Buy the correct stuff. It is important to find a manual to find all the places to find points that need oil. Some have an areas that act as a oil pan that feeds the machine. In your case below your add on light switch and an area below the machine(remove the screw). Some machines are made for speed all day long. They have an oil pump. An oil pan below the machine that requires alot of oil.

 

I have the correct viscosity, non-staining oil for the machine and the manual as well. There are also a few great instructional videos that have tutorials for lubrication, maintenance and the several adjustment procedures specifically for this machine found easily with a quick search online. The Juki LU-563 does have an oil drip tray with an absorbing sponge in it but my machine is not equipped with an oil pump or reservoir. The machine will ask for oil just by the sound it makes if neglected. Not likely to happen with me. These machines have several oiling points highlighted in red but not all. I have familiarized myself with the mechanical operations but am sure it will be an ongoing learning experience. This machine head will outlive me and my offspring for sure. The brushless servo motor...time will tell.

 

I bought a Pfaff walking foot machine.

 

Excellent choice! It took me about 3 months to finally buy a machine. I missed out on a Pfaff, being too far away and the seller not willing to hold it until I got there. Then there was a nice Consew that the guy upped his price after I got there. I left on principal. Then, I thought I would be the first to answer an ad for an Adler machine, but after a 10 minute drive, I got there just in time to see it being loaded up in a pick-up. It seems like good, used industrial type machines are a lot easier to sell, then to buy, around here anyhow.

 

Could you shorten the legs on your stool?

Just kiddin.........great thread you started!

 

Where are you located?

 

Windsor Ontario, just 1 mile south of Detroit MI. I had to drive 4 hours each way to get this machine but I got it cheap enough, planned on retro-fitting it and we made a day trip out of it.

 

i understand the peg, i know the threadstand, but where's the bobbin winder?

 

When the bobbin is full the mechanism trips disengaging the drive wheel from the belt.
Used for for pre-loading bobbins ahead of time so you have one ready to go when the one in use becomes empty. It winds as you sew until full.

 

gotcha, i also looked at a youtube video on how to load the bobbin. thanks

 

I want to do the interior on one of my cars. I bought a machine before I knew what I was doing so did not get the best one. I then found a better one and bought that. That continued until I got one that I really wanted. Last year I sold my 4 extra machines and made money on all of them. Then I bought 2 more that I resold. It surprised me how far people would drive to buy them. Some of them have called back wondering if I had more to sell. I was just surprised how much demand there are for industrial sewing machines. I now just have to practice on my remaining machine.

 

I bought some pre-wound bobbins in black and white. I need all he help I can get until I get a handle on it.

 

Not to pic on you, but your tension is off a bit. You can see you bobbin thread lying on top. It is black. You want your knot right in the middle. I always use the same color of bobbin as the top thread. I never wind a bobbin when I sew. Pull your bobbin casing out of the machine when winding a new one. And pull your thread out of the take up lever too. When changing thread in your machine, just tie the two together and pull it thru. No need to thread the whole thing. Except thru the needle.

 

Pre wound bobbins are not cheap but those metal bobbins are less then a dollar each at the local sewing machine repair shop so time to stock up when I get in the area. My pre wounds come from work,since I am in charge of ordering so when the box gets down to less then a dozen I order and whats left in the depleted box goes home with me.

 

COULD A REGULAR MACHINE WITH AN ATATCHABLE WALKING FOOT BE USED FOR UPHOLSTERY?

 

I didn’t notice. But this is the kinda criticism we need. I looked at some of my practice stuff and have the same out come.


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You can only learn so much by watching U tube. Sometimes, it`s hard to get good even tension on a pre wound bobbin. It seems to vary a bit. Do you have a separate disc in your bobbin casing.

 

@stanlow69 Thank you for the information and how it should look and yes very important that both top and bottom threads meet in the middle. I just grabbed some scrap to try out your tip and didn’t adjust my machine for the materials. So a great lesson on the correct way it should look ..
I dont sew every day and enjoy sewing but bobbin winding sucks lol. I haven’t tried the prewound bobbins and use my Consew to wind them so I dont have to remove the thread from the machine . I got the same tip from the guy I bought the machine from 30 years ago with cutting the thread and tying a knot and pull the new thread thru. Another great tip for guys that are unfamiliar with that sewing tip awesome thank you. So you got anymore tricks for us?

 

After finish sewing and you cut your thread, and when the bobbin thread gets curly, it`s getting low. Listen to your gut instincts. It will tell you when you are about to run out. Yes, winding bobbins suck. I do up to 4 (in a row)at a time. or more than enough to do a small job.

 

From what I have read, it isn't really advisable. Can it? Maybe. I'm a newbie, but from our personal experience, it didn't work out.