Technical It’s got captains bars 261 scrap yard purchase

got it loaded up.
Here is a pic of the oil galley.
The block is a different color than the head and has a reman plate on it.
I’ll get that checked out when I can flip it over.
Engine is stuck, oil looks great and the block had bright green antifreeze.
2 bars on the starter side of the block.

 

the oil fitting to the filter has been adapted down to the small oil filter line.
Would this be the full flow block?

 

It looks like it.

When I bought my 53 the late 261 was already installed and who ever did it plumbed the bypass filter in place of a full flow filter, it starved the engine of oil.
I had to replace and turn a crank shaft and do a complete rebuild.

 

Oil bosses on my full flow 261

 

This one isn’t plumbed correctly. Both lines T into the same port.
I plan to remove the head tomorrow.
If bores are good, then go from there.
I’m interested in the tag on the block from the rebuilder. These plates usually have info on journal and bore sizes.
A friend of mine has a dismantled 261 I’m going to check out soon.

 

Mine was plumbed correctly (In/Out) but the 1/2 bosses had adapters to the 1/4 lines for the bypass filter.

 

bores are shiny with some slight rust. Head was super clean. Looks like the only water was in the places it was supposed to be.

 

tags says Motors Inc.
wonder if the phone number is good
Pistons are .060.
Tags says mains are .010.

Motors Inc of Memphis Tn came up empty.
As did the address on the tag.
Guess the warranty is up

 

Looked at some threads here and at some parts to add a PS pump.
I’m running a hydroboost system and need to pump.
I’ve seen the rare dual groove crank pulley and brackets that enable you to run a single groove damper. I kinda don’t like the stacked look.
Pondering on drilling and taping the stock damper and bolting on a flat single grove pulley.
I don’t need a double water pump pulley.
Mount the PS pump in the generator spot. Mount the alt on the other side.

 

Brackets pulley etc from a power steering Chevy six car or pickup pre 63 should bolt right up.

 

302 GMC BIG SIX ( WMD, WAYNE OR SKINNER UPGRADES. GO BIG OR GO HOME ! LOL

 

Now you just need an 848 head for a little extra squish (I happen to have a spare AND a NOS 848 head )!!!

 

Got one. thanks.

 

Those are like hens teeth. That lower dampener is crazy high.

 

It has not been mentioned here but there is a plug (pressed in) above the front oil line and my memory is foggy but I seem to remember that it must be flush with the block or recessed (driven in) depending on using full flow filter or none at all. I'm sure that Robtert J. Palmer would know. Just a word of caution.
Eddie

 

Well the good news is I was mistaken on this thing being stuck.
A valve was, the engine isn’t.
So far I’m happy with my $120 investment.

 

Better pic of the oil filter holes.
Has the large fittings.
You can see the adaptors used.

 

Can't tell where the weird angled one goes. That's a lot of plumbing that didn't come on it new. Any more galley holes up front ?

 

I will check tomorrow. These oil filter lines are not like the ones on my 235.
I’m kinda confused as well.

 

I have read every hop up manual I have been able to find on the Chevy six and they always tell you to heat the manifold. I know Tom Langdon is death on not heating it. I am sure he and Leo Santuci know a lot more about these engines than I do but here's my experience. I have been running an old McGurk twin carb manifold on my 261 for over 20 years and a Clifford 4 barrel intake on a 292 for even longer and have never heated either of them and they seem to perform perfectly well. In fact the only "problem" that I've run into seems like it would be made worse by heating the manifold. While out running around if you stop for a short bit, the truck fires right up at the touch of the starter. If it sits for very long it seems that it develops a mild case of "vapor lock". It has to crank for a bit before it fires off.
I'm not an expert, but that's my experience.

 

Oh, one other thing, and maybe this has been covered but remember when putting an 848 head on a 261 that you need to drill the steam release holes in the head to match the block. 235's don't have those holes, that's why the 261 head gasket is different from the 235. You can use the 261 head gasket as a template to locate where to drill the holes.

 

Gotcha!

 

Next time it gets to the point of that long crank requirement, Stop cranking right away, gas pedal to da floor, crank again. My 63 305e v6 does the exact same thing as you described after it sit awhile when hot. I usually know immediately. Then i do what i suggested and it starts. Maye itll work for ya also. My 261 on da other hand never did it tho.

 

You are correct also on the steam holes. But i also recall that they are supposed to be at an angle. 15 degrees sounds familiar but double check if going that route on da 848 head.

 

Thats actually great news. It funny, i was catching up on this thread and was going to suggest that. Somewhat common issue on inliners when sitting for awhile. Your motor has already exceeded your investment. And considering its been rebuild. You got a great deal. Congrats

 

I have a low mile 848 head.
The head off this 261 looks great other than the one stuck valve, looks stuck from just sitting up. Very little rust was in the engine.
Is the 848 head worth doing for a slight compression bump.
Engine will probably end up in a truck that’s used for a truck.

 

From everything that I have heard you'll feel the difference,so yes, to me it's worth using the 848 head.

 

Probably will.
Just incase the 261 ends up in my 49.
The 848 head I have came from a verifiable 45k mile truck.

 

Here's a pic of the 261 carb setup than ran well unheated here in SD. I, of course, didn't run in much in the winter but in lots of 40 degree weather.

 

found a new water pump today cleaning out the shop. It has an extra heater hose port. Could come in handy plumbing a water heated intake.
Possibly.