Projects Studebaker 1961 259 v8 performance engine parts

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Ok, Dave;
Memory must be going away, along w/everything else. I'm not willing to pull heads, n dig out the old 232 dual 2bb to compare. Sure's hell seems smaller. ??? You win.
& Mike Scherer's Lark was something else. Sound would stand the neck hairs up. . Great sport watching him pull the wheels every run.
Marcus...

 

Recently sold a 63 Lark Daytona, 289, T10 4 speed, Dana 44 TT, Disc brakes. when rebuilding the engine was warned by a couple guys in the know about the rods, they used a split design in the small end with a pinch bolt to hold the wrist pin in. Use very little torque on those bolts or they will strip. There is also a seal retainer on the oil pan that is made out of the worlds softest metal and will strip easily. Ask me how I know. There is a guy here in Oregon goes by Studebaker John that builds electronic distributors that use Chrysler housings and guts. If you needed parts for one you could walk into any auto parts store and ask for 318 Chrysler Cap, rotor, reluctor, whatever. Ran mine with a MSD box. Couldn't afford the price of the aftermarket rods but wished I could. There are two different block designs, partial flow and full flow referring to the oil filter and the oil flow to it. Had a nice forged crank in it (factory) and it ran really smooth and had good useable torque. Only real downside is cost in my opinion.

 

Studebaker 1963 Bonneville records set by Andy Granetelli in this video, 168mph with 304CI. Like engine in my last post with Paxton blower.

 

Neat video thanks for posting - didn't some records last until the 1990's ?

 

In red -
This "world's softest material" is not in the oil pan ! It's a big block of aluminum between the pan and the block. It's a big filler block that Stude used for some reason. It's just a cheap aluminum casting. No need for a lot of torque when tightening the "timing cover" (not pan) fasteners. Plus, there is a right and wrong way of tightening those fasteners.

In blue -
There's a guy in Oregon that's currently doing the same Chrysler ignition build. He's been doing these for some years.

In green -
Yea, most any "orphen" engine (trans., rear end, etc.) will cost more than current, Chevy, Chrysler, Ford parts, and even the rebuilds.

Since we're talking rebuilding engines -
The engine that I'm building... Crower rods, Ross pistons, custom roller camshaft, custom built, cam gear drive that's adjustable (to .7 of one degree) with a custom timing cover, roller rocker arms, a Chevy intake manifold reworked to be used on the Stude heads, MANY hours of cylinder head rework, with LS Chevy valves, custom crank trigger ignition, hours on knife edging the Stude crankshaft, custom oil pump that uses Chevy pressure reduction valve and spring, custom oil pan windage tray/crank scraper...and probably a couple other things that I'm forgetting.

Mike

 

Yes, Studebaker John (John Lassetter) has been building distributors for years. The first one (distributor) he built for me was in the 90's for a 49 Champion 6 I had at that time. All stock other than 12 volt electronics and was probably the most reliable classic car I ever owned. Could leave it sit for months, connect the battery, and it never failed to start. Sold it when I bought the Daytona. The guy that bought it from me has it for sale, it is a starlight coupe with the wrap around rear glass and very much a rust free car. Your build sounds impressive to say the least! I am always fascinated by what people can make these old engines put out. Some of the recent Bonneville builds I have read about are pushing 660 horsepower from an engine design dating from the 40's. You have more talent than me! Mark

 

On another note I've been in contact with a guy that's bought some parts from a deceased Stude collector. There might be an NOS block and crank along with a NOS cam. Got the rods in one of the boxes I bought. Although they have tags with the correct 527114/115 #'s the rods have the casting # 526956 - just standard V/8 rods - right ?