I'm rebuilding the window regulators on my '29AA and needed some new rollers. I couldn't get quite the small size I needed to fit the stock window channel, but since I needed to replace both roached out channels anyway, I decided to bend up new channels out of 18-gauge sheet steel and make more room for the slightly larger rollers that I could source. Now for the info that may help you: I've bought two sets of screen/patio door rollers. I'm sure these steel, ball-bearing rollers are smoother, more durable substitutes for nylon/plastic options. Here are the manufacturers/parts numbers/dimensions: Prime-line (for patio door); part number D 1638; outer diameter .084;inner groove diameter .625; axle radius .180; roller thickness .292; axle housing thickness .346. PLPCI (screen door); part number V2968; outer diameter .925; inner groove diameter .725; roller thickness .233. I don't have axle radius or thickness numbers because this roller has an axle in place with a metal tab attached and I haven't drilled it out yet. I hope this helps, or gives you some idea.
This is a 48' Chevrolet/Pontiac convertible door glass assembly. While this picture is of a Chevrolet, I just rebuilt my 48 Pontiac convertible doors and they are identical to the one shown here. Chevrolet and small body Pontiac used many common parts. Yep, I know you have a sedan, but they are all very similar. You should get a parts interchange book on internet so you can have more knowledge of what years and models interchange. The highlighted areas on the pic use 2 felt washers on each knob. They are also available on internet (I believe i purchased mine from Chevs of the 40's) The felts slide onto the various tracks and are used similar to the plastic rollers on later cars, referenced in the thread above. Once everything is degreased/cleaned, and re-lubricated, you will be astounded at how smooth they work. Window regulators can be found on eBay almost every day. Most GM's are the same or very similar. You just need to begin educating yourself so you can make sure to get the correct ones. Parts to rebuild the regulators are also available.......one of few things available for early Chevy..........
If it'll help I can pull my doors apart and photo them? They're a bit different, being '51 but the mechanisms look the same. Phil
I have an interchange book coming should be here today or by Fri. Someone a few threads back mentioned the book and I actually found 2 of them. I have downloaded the Chevy of the 40's cat. sometime ago.Those parts you show- 3 question, 1.Do you have a part # or page#. 2.The vertical black strip on the left- is that the rubber for the bottom of the window or beltline fuzzy or the gripping tape some people mention and 3. Is the any modification I would need to do. The modifying I can but- if any welding is needed I'm out of luck.. But if you say they all fit I might as well go New- if I gotta take stuff out anyhow- Oh any new holes need to be drilled to attach the regulator or do they line up also.?
Naw you don't need to go thru all that- but thanks anyhow. I'll either replace with new or rebuild and keep looking for new rollers- I found other missing parts and I "think" everything's there, but like the earlier photo I posted those rollers are shot- so I might as well replace them all "if I can". Question- My windows have a piece of rubber at the bottom-- Is there a name for that-- a rubber company didn't send it because " I didn't ask for it by name" Mine are as hard as rocks. Also someone mentioned some kind of tape - but again no company has mentioned it. and I had to leave it up to them to tell me what I needed when I told them "I'm replacing ALL my windows except the back windows ( 10) Send me what I need to have someone put them back in. The front and back windshield seals/gaskets were wrong and have to be reordered.
Yes, sash channel rubber. Without you need to replace or find an alternative means of securing the glass. Phil
It's meant to be a moderately soft rubber- think faucet seals- I was suggested to use glass sealing silicone (Sikaflex or equivalent) if the rubber channel is unavailable. Any thin (1/16" or so) rubber sheeting would work too, with the channel pushed onto the glass and the rubber trimmed flush. Phil
Lots of Pontiac People here in WI, I can steer you to 3 yards that have Pontiacs & Chebbys of this vintage. Since you don't care about the sheet metal, parts should be affordable & you can practice on a junker instead of your baby. This is a preferable way to learn in my experience! PM sent.
this is on ebay right now..............need to start poking around............parts are out there. If you contact that seller, they may just have everything you need! 46', 47', and 48's are basically same parts. And some earlier years fit too.
Better yet, there are probably some Hambers out there that can help.............. You need to post in the "Wanted" section of HAMB!
Looks like this guy is parting this one out. You should take inventory of things you need and work with him on some kind of package deal (whole car?) If you work with this guy, you can probably get all the tracks and hardware that go with the regulators..............and everything else too. Can you say "Road Trip"?
I know I may be thought an ass for posting this, but no one has thrown out the idea of using seatbelts. I know it sounds like a waste but in a pinch even the simplest method will work until something else comes along. And, like I found out with a '58 Volkswagen (I know it's off topic) but I drove it thousands of miles with only the E brake and shifted the throttle over to the choke cable and had my own cruise control. Long time ago. But, sometimes dumb stuff works when nothing else is around. Just attach one end of the belt on the outside and and loop the belt under the window and leave the other end on the inside. Attach a seat belt lock on the door frame and you have a window that will either be up, or down. Simple Redneck Solution. Also a lot of race cars use this. Just gettin' it out there. I know on more door it might be a bit much but who's counting?
I would drive it using a 5 gallon bucket upside down for seats and with clear plastic bags for widows again -if my wife would ride in it and the cops wouldn't consider it a road hazard-- he just wouldn't go " But it didn't come with seatbelts and widows- they were an option
I was at a Dismantler's somewhere around Whittier, when a car zoomed in and stopped. A Hispanic man got out and went into the office. I had just pulled in and was getting myself together, as the expression goes. When I got out I noticed there were several children in the car. As I walked past and looked inside, I saw there was no steering wheel, just a pair of vice grips on the steering shaft. I got back in my pickup and drove off, afraid of what I might say and do to the driver. Some things work well no matter how stupid; some things are stupid not matter how well they work; reasonable people who are mechanically minded can find solutions to problems in the same way farmers use bailing wire, and Rednecks use Duct Tape. Solutions are not always cut and dried from a list with boxes to check. Hot Rods are by definition 'Ingenuity in action'. Objective reality is only as plastic as your imagination. There are kits to make window electric. All it takes is money. I always figured Vice Grips to be one of the major inventions for the desperate who know how to improvise. Hell, they even made a TV show about a fellow who found more uses for a Swiss Army knife than the Eight Million Dollar Man did for his Dingo.
I'd suggest giving Joe DiOrio's Old Car Parts a call. Joe specializes in 1954 and older GM cars, and has a large selection of used parts in stock. I've been dealing with Joe Sr. and Jr. since the late 60's and they're good people. There's good chance he'll have the regulators, and save you having to change the whole electrical system just to get to power windows. https://www.oldcarpartsor.com/
Neat trick for the rollers - the felt replacements they sell are meant to replace original leather washers for those parts... If you have a punch, or are patient with an xacto knife, get an old belt - or do like I did and accidentally use a new belt, and punch out new leather washers, they can be soaked so they stretch a bit, and you can muscle them over the washers and voila! ready for another 80 ish years of service.
You can use that "glue in" windshield glue but remember it will be hard to remove the glass if you need to at some point.
actually that was my first thought- But we don't have the room inside of the garage and there's an ordinance for cars none lic. to be sitting in a driveway for too long.
Great suggestion- only problem is the shops- I started in April of 2017- All I wanted was 5 things mechanical things done and a cheap ass Earl Scheib style paint job That's it. By the end of 2017 I and the shop were battling it out to get my " already paid K amounts of money back- We end up in court and I did get most of it back- 2018 a guy I was acquainted with, that use to have his own paint and body shop said bought the 1st quart of paint for my car-2018 I stripped it down to the metal without asking for a reduction in price again that was in 2018---- I have serious breathing problems, so anything other than a rattle -I had to get someone else. 2020- car still not painted completely- small parts and doors and hood and deck lid only primed-- I finally took it back over around Aug. 2020 finished it myself- I had to double on masked and take a lot of inhaler breaks- But the car is finally painted- Oh and the only reason the windows are "all out" is because the 1st shop said they could replace all the window channels and windows and do a better paint job-and they could replace them--- wrong oh- So now it's hard for me to take the car anywhere-- and the shop now is great - but said and I agree- it would chew up a lot of man hours for research to find the parts missing or damaged- So it would be less if I found the parts.
Do you have the part # I the stuff in your photo- I like the idea of going "new" Oh was there any welding involved someone mentioned it earlier and __ I'm not a welder.
That explains why there was no interest in my suggestion earlier. I proposed a practically universal fix for the no regulator problem. Learn how to weld and you will not be held hostage by incompetent help. I am amazed at how inexpensive welders have now become. Buy one and learn.
It's been a thought for sometime now because that shop also did create shall we shall some extra added income by cutting a small piece out piece out- where I know it could have repaired a slightly different way. At 21 I was going to do all the work-- at 70 I figure I worked my ass off- I could afford to pay a person/company who was proud of their work- Even the cheap paint job I wanted was just to keep it from rusting until I found the right shop-- I never thought I'd have to learn to paint with"clear coats- epoxy paint- and urethane paint. At 70 I had no intention of buying more tools- But so goes the trade. But you guys have been great--- with creative ideas and places where to look. I've had some outlandish price quotes and even I know completely restored--- the most the car would be worth 25-39K. Heck I want to drive the car again not call it an investment and leave a showroom car for someone else to enjoy-- I was just a factory rat when I retired
I still remember being 21. Don't let the old man in. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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