Technical HELP Ford Toploader 3 speed RAN transmission DIY Rebuild

Hi can anyone tell me how to get the fork out? Lower gears are dropped but the fork shift won't slide out. Has a bushing up front stopping it and won't slide into case .. gets close then locks up.

Allen set screw is out.

Help plz

 

Somehow switched to wrong thread admins plz move

 

I think you have to turn the rod now because there is a detent on that rear stand. Then I think you can drive it out the cup plug in the front. I think


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Are you taking it all the way apart?




Bones

 

Thanks I actually found another hamb thread with pics of the manual.. finally got it back together earlier. Yes I had to rotate the shift fork arm, and I didn't realize the tail housing and front keep the hearings in so the 3 pawls up front kept popping out.. this tyranny sure has some interesting ways!!

They could have made a few things just a notch easier but anyway.

So the needle bearings for the lower gear were ridiculously tight, I could not get 25 in so had to use old ones.. the counter gear I believe.

Plus I need the cups for the front..

Hopefully the noise is gone.. that input bearing was loud as heck just spinning by hand. She's quiet now, very smooth hope I didn't miss anything crucial! Able to shift smoothly thru gears. NOW gotta find a gl4 gear oil locally thats not too exotic on the wallet..

 

Kind of late now, but I usually put a used countershaft in upside down, to even out the wear. It only sees load on the top.

 

These were known for noisy input bearings. New ones will quiet them, but the noise usually comes back. Had one in a truck, started getting noisy at about 90K. Took to a trans guy, he drove it and told me not to worry. Drove it another 140K and it never got any noisier....

 

yeah ive driven a couple of ford manual over the years and heck they are loud! not a fan - anyway this will be in for a while till i get a 4 speed or convert to auto-

So - i never had a chance to see exactly what the interlock pin looks like (my magnet would not fit) -

Can someone post a pic of one if they have? the manual image is too small to see exactly what it looks like-

I have from bottom to top:

spring - detent pin - shaft - detent - spring - top cover. What does the interlock pin do and can I run without it?

Tranny still on back of truck so I can pop the cover and tail off easily if need be-

 

Do you a link to the rebuild manual thread??

 

I found a thread where someone posted 3 pages with disassembly/assembly and and exploded view but cant find it on computer now. The pdf manuals i found were too hard to see much but they helped with some assembly/teardown steps- seems earlier 60s manuals had better quality images overall-

im waiting to bid on a 69 car shop manual set - but otherwise i was messing around on my phone with greasy fingers trying to figure it out-

 

Did all models come with the interlock pin and can one run without it using only springs and detents? I dont recall seeing a hole thru the shift fork shaft where the pin would go thru - they were solid so i figured a combination of the double pointed detent pins and springs would suffice-

here is a basic drawing showing what I have:

(if images not showing here is a direct link)

https://i.ibb.co/mHqVFZy/Ford-3-speed-detent-pins.jpg

 

I thought the interlock pin was only in the four speeds. You think that one was fun, do a four-speed! You didn’t have to take it all the way apart to replace the bearings.


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yeah i guess part of the fun was not really knowing what i was doing - of course i only really found helpful material online after i had already jumped in - needle bearings everywhere dont know how many times the detent pins fell into the case and how many times the fwd pawls kept popping out cos the rear bearing would move out!

 

Interesting to hear that Ford input bearings are loud.
Ford uses standard roller bearings made by outside vendors SKF, Timken, etc. same as other car makers. Bearings becoming loud earlier than expected usually is caused by improper installation or other environmental factors.

How many people actually use a dial indicator to check runout of the flywheel and bellhousing input bearing retainer locating hole?

 

I think I had a run of bad transmissions from a trash shop who would resell "rebuilt" transmission another customer brought in, they were really bad. Mine was also incredibly loud, like really bad despite zero vibration or issues.. soon as I went into gear sounded like the gears were really whining.. the bearings were real rough too, especially the input one yikes.

 

A bad ground will wipe out bearings too. Might not be a bad idea to run a ground strap from the trans to the frame for the engine to the frame


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usually on alternators - i cant imagine that on a trans, esp with no electrics? Ive seen alternator bearings scream and heard of wheel bearings - how would it get thru the trans? I have a boat repair shop, battery cables and connections are the first on my easy list