Hot Rods Nature Abhors a Vacuum, Or, The Hemi A Roadster fills a void.

Both doors now hung. I've had some nay-sayers point out that Model A doors are supposed to overland shouldn't be flush fit because "...Henry didn't build them that way...", the frames are too flexible, , the door hinges and body character lines break up the "smooth" body lines, so why bother, and, one guy grudgingly admitted, "...it's your build, carry on." Well, I like it.

It's come a long way from a bare, un-braced fiberglass body. It's not on an original frame. I've always like a '29 on Deuce rails, and I've always thought hot rods with early Hemi engines were pretty freak'n cool. I'm looking forward to hearing that baby Hemi talking through straight pipes, and snuggling down in some tooled leather upholstery behind that tiny windscreen.

I say, "Well hung Sir." Onwards.

 

Sweet! One thing I didn't like about my Brookville and originals was the overlap door. Looks like its solved for you!

 

One of the pics showed the same style rim on the roadster as the DeSoto. Or, were they just "borrowed"?

 

Borrowed. I have just one set of wheels with tires on 'em for rollers, in a 5 on 4 1/2" and that's them. The roadster will probably end up with 5 on 5 1/2", which I have 2 sets of 15" steel wheels for. The originals from the DeSoto (the wagons and Imperials used that bolt pattern), and a set of '56 Continental wheels. The wagon will end up with the Salt Flats, and some 15" dual pattern steelies I pickup up, so I can change up the look. The steel wheels will get wide white radials for the wagon, blackwalls for the roadster.

 

I like the doors. Will have the purist snobs scratching their heads. Just tell them it’s a Canadian Model A.

 

This photo popped up on my other social media feed this morning. So, I'd better go out and get busy so Kim and I will look like this in June...

 

I dunno, can’t see a damn thing through this windshield...


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That's going to be bad ass when your done!

 

To answer your question (that I just saw) the quick answer is because the location of the split wishbone (radius rod) pivot determines the castor of the front axle kingpin/spindle. It is possible to change this by cutting and welding the radius rod, if you want the pivot point in the frame rail, but obviously, I'm to going to cut and weld a chrome radius rod. So, the anchor, or pivot point, goes wherever it has to be to get that 5 degree or so of castor. That's the reason.

 

Today's exciting progress: Making cowl/door post bracing from an angle iron packing crate. Yes, the 5" snowblower for my little tractor came shipped in a 1 1/4" angle iron crate bolted to a pallet. Being "thrifty", of course I cut it up, thinking 40 feet of angle iron might just come in handy some day.
Today was the day. I cut some up and made this brace. There one up the door post, screwed and 'glassed to it, one on the floor sill, also screwed and glassed, a diagonal brace, and a little nub up the firewall foot, that'll be mirrored on the other, outside, of the firewall like the "foot" on a '32 cowl, that'll be body to frame mount.
Once the right side is done, another piece of the stuff will go between the door posts behind the dash, and the windshield mounting tabs, down in the cowl post, will be bolted to uprights on the post brace.
Easy, strong, and best of all, FREE!

 

Body back on its cradle. Located position on the radius rods, looks like just above the frame reveal with 6 degrees of castor.


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Something I was concerned about was how to finish the top inside a of the doors and body tub. I had the two unused ‘glass inner door panels, and I cut strips from them to mold to the doors and quarters. This makes a return that the door cards can slip under, and I put a little bow in the door return pieces to transition into the dash. Sort of like a ‘34 but less pronounced. I like it.


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Brian 6-7° of caster should behave just fine.
One test I always liked, was how well did the car back up, at anything over 10 mph.
(Wheelbase of 103-15/32" of course!)

 

The body bracing is done, aside from some turnbuckles in the doors to tuck the bottom corners in. I’ve got big orders coming from Summit and Speedway for the rest of the chassis parts and exhaust, so I’m ready for New Year and a couple new cars!


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Looking good Brian!

 

Sub'd, mostly 'cause this is a hell of a read, as usual for denizens of Kalamazoo, but also because I'm a big fan of '29s on '32s.

 

Got a bit done on the roadster today. I knocked the tacked in engine mounts off, made new ones and raised them 3/4”, as the engine was set too low. I took a brake drum off and got started putting the Wilson Welding backing plates on. They’re machined for a Ford rear, but the holes aren’t drilled, so I have to lay that out and drill them to mount them. Looks like they’ll work with the new Buick drums from Speedway just fine.
I’m waiting for a bunch of stuff from them and a “U-weld” exhaust kit from a Summit.
Things are gonna happen .


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Santa came!


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I see Santa brought you a new fan ................are you sure that will fit between the engine and radiator?

 

It’s the extension cord I’m worried about...


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This will work.


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DeSoto dash mock up. This looks better than I imagined.


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I spent a few minutes today playing with greasy exhaust pipe, I think I have a plan. I'd wanted to run the exhaust up in the frame, but on the left side the master cylinder, brake pedal and 2 1/2" exhaust want to try to occupy the same space. So, I'll drop them below the frame and run 'em there. It's tight over the rear axle and it's Panhard bar, but there's room. I have mufflers, but I think we'll just go with straight pipes initially, and see how it sounds. The '34 sounded great with full length straight pipes, this little Hemi should too.

 

Some dope on a Model A hot rod group on FB told me it was WAY too early in the build to, "...worry about the exhaust...".

 

I worry about the exhaust before I figure out what car I am building. It only affects...everything. Unless you build belly buttons, then i guess it is a no brainer. Then again, that is not really "building" just more like "assembling".

 

The guy doubled down by very snarkily asking if I'd had the body on, if the frame had been up on wheels, as if cars aren't built in stages with any forethought. Some peoples kids...

 

I may be seeing things from the wrong angle but it looks like you have the brake shoes on backwards. I always put the short (lining) shoe on the front on Ford brakes that are self energizing. Am I seeing the pictures wrong? Anyway, am really liking your post. We are building a 32 roadster as a group that will be donated and auctioned / sold with the proceeds going to charity. This will be our third build that we have done this but the first time we have bought a body and cut the doors and braced everything. We are using a Y-Block because I donated one, it's all on the cheap. It's much harder than it looks! Keep on and make it yours and ignore the background noise.

 

Our groups latest project mentioned above.

 

You are absolutely correct. Only put that one on the right side because the chassis is so close to my bench and drill press it's awkward to get around it on the left. Good eye! Never fear, I got the other brake set up today (shipping delay), and when I get the backing plate drilled to mount on the axle flange, they'll be on the correct side.

 

Well, I got busy and put the roadster body back on the frame, to check my master cylinder and pedal placement (after a VERY frustrating week with the DeSoto brakes, resulting in ditching pretty much the entire system and starting over), and, HUZZAH! It's in the right place! I mocked up a seat, a steering column, and everything fits and the little cockpit will be pretty comfortable.
I also put one of the (barely used) Wilson Welding backing plates, which turned out to be polished, and a drum. It looks SO good, I'll have to polish the other front one and the drums. The rears probably not, but we'll see how it goes.