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Technical ***January 2021 Banger Meet Thread - Good Riddance 2020!***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Jan 1, 2021.

  1. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    I just checked, he posted on his instagram personal page and his business page about 10 hours ago. @wac_customs and @BCCHOPIT
     
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  2. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    i also emailed him , but no response yet .
     
  3. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 413

    nutrocker
    Member

    Happy new year to all, let’s hope for a better year for everyone.
    I spent most of the first two days of the new year getting all the final bits fitted to get the motor fired up before I go back to work on Monday.
    Saturday morning was just about checking everything over, filling with fluids and running the oil pump up with a drill to prime the system. It was a cold day, the electric drill was struggling to spin the pump and started to smoke. I tried to crank the motor over, but it was very slow. So I put the electric heater in front of the oil tank and set about the pump with my hot air gun. 20 minutes of preheat and she fired up straight away. I didn’t get any video on Saturday as too busy running round checking everything.
    Today I preheated it again and video’d the start up. The motor is noisy, the exhaust header gasket leaks due to the flange not being flat, a job that still needs doing, and the valve clearances being a little on the loose side. Timing is too advanced too, so knocking a bit. Lots to do over the next few weeks then it’ll go on the rolling road for setup.

    I can’t seem to embed the video, so click on the link below.

    https://www.facebook.com/100005233001002/posts/1648052008712550/
     
    burl, fourd, Jet96 and 5 others like this.
  4. Mikko_
    Joined: Aug 3, 2018
    Posts: 453

    Mikko_
    Member
    from Sweden

    I'm not there yet in my build process but thinking about carburators for my B-engine, go with a new Stromberg 97 or rebuild the Holley/Ford 94 that came with my 59AB I bought last year.
    What would your choice be for a mild street banger?

    Also thinking about water pumps, is a stock A pump preferred or is an adapter with a V8-pump the way to go?
     
  5. hotrod holland
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 36

    hotrod holland
    Member

    toyota 5 gear year 74
     

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  6. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 842

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Checking in for the month getting a few things done.Finishing another volvo 4 spd swap and had to make a radiator cap for this old pile volvo 4 spd.jpg pedals.jpg shroud.jpg
     
  7. Hey Burl - what's the clutch cover? Would it work with a stock gearbox and thrust bearing?
     
    Crazydaddyo likes this.
  8. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 842

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    The bell housing is nos AA the clutch and throw out are Volvo components the flywheel is lightened model A


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  9. Figured that the gearbox snout and thrust would be Volvo - just wondering what diameter the centre hole in the diaphragm might be?
     
  10. Dustyp489
    Joined: Feb 1, 2008
    Posts: 223

    Dustyp489
    Member

  11. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 842

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    The id of the diaphragm with out the fingers depressed measure about 1.925


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  12. Thanks for that!
     
  13. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 1,287

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    Is the bolt pattern of the Volvo pressure plate the same as the Ford V-8? I bought a T-bird turbo/ Mustang 4 turbo pressure plate that is supposed to be a diaphragm direct replacement for the V-8 pressure plate and the holes are on about an 1/8 inch smaller circle.
    I will either have to slot the holes outboard a bit or re-drill the flywheel to use it.
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  14. JB401
    Joined: Aug 30, 2020
    Posts: 153

    JB401
    Member

    Burl, what master cylinder setup is that? I have been looking into different options for my hydraulic brake conversion. Thanks
     
  15. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 842

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Just a willwood single pot 1 inch bore master cylinder kit.I used it on my 28 that i did the same conversion.Its a single pot and you will get all kinds of opinions about that but it has worked well for me.
     
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  16. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 842

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I dont think so.When i surfaced the flywheel you can still see where the old bolt pattern was for the model a clutch the volvo pattern was differant
     
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  17. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    single brake cylinder works well . i had to get the one with large & small chamber . disc require the large chamber .
     
  18. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,534

    Stovebolt
    Member

    Quick update, We got the ex-Harold Johansen 28 coupe running yesterday - I have to figure out how to post a video if it starting for the first time after a 3 month layoff.
     
  19. steve hackel
    Joined: Mar 5, 2010
    Posts: 389

    steve hackel
    Member

    Burl; using the Volvo trans output shaft and flange, how are you adapting that , shown in the picture, to an A' style universal joint & torque tube?
    Are you eventually just planning on running an open drive line conversion for this setup?
     
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  20. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 842

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    possible open drive would probably be the easiest but i know guys have matched it up to the torque tube but theres not much information on it
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  21. Burl,
    While the open driveshaft is pretty easy, the Mod "A" will require a bit of work on the rear end. That torque tube really was a good design. The radius rods are not nearly strong enough in the "A". Just be sure to take into account the accelerating and braking torque on the rear end.
    John
     
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  22. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 842

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    After some interweb digging it looks like a 37-39 chev u joint has the same spline as the volvo output shaft so then all i would have to do is match that to the A u joint and still keep the torque tube setup which i would much rather do
     
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  23. ukgav
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 341

    ukgav
    Member

    Pete's (nutrocker) fire up video deserves to be seen by a wider audience so here it is. The thing is a work of art!
     
  24. nutrocker
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 413

    nutrocker
    Member

    Cheers Gav.
     
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  25. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 4,202

    denis4x4
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Colorado

    brjnelson and johnneilson like this.
  26. Very impressive, thoughtful workmanship like build! I've, though eschewing tradition, used Gilmer drive belts to run the V6-71 converted Detroit supercharger on the "Jimmy" truck small block in my "Deuce 5-window"; and on the external drive of the oil pump on the Model B engine of my '32 race car.
     
  27. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,576

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well today was supposed to startup day. Another gremlin . Serr head , Serr water pump , power gen alternator , Murray horn damper pulley , we were using the bottom pulley and power gen on the original B motor. I haven’t got the motor in front of me at present but my engine guy says the water pump pulley which came off the original B is an alloy one. The mystery is why is the water pump pulley 5/8” too far forward . ?? Power gen and bottom pulley are inline nicely . I don’t have an original A or B pulley here to check . Frustrating. No machine shops are open here yet.
    E0DEC174-4D48-4887-A666-2F22653527B2.jpeg 2D558060-F5A4-44A8-B964-AF79A8E4B415.jpeg
     
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  28. David Mazza
    Joined: Aug 25, 2018
    Posts: 87

    David Mazza

    Need some advice from someone who has used a magneto on a model a. My car will be difficult to mount a generator on so my hope is that I can run a magneto to have a stand alone ignition system. My engine will be a very basic and simple touring engine with 6-1 compression, stipe cam and fine balancing. My hope is that I will be able to frequently hand crank this engine, and use it reliably on the street. Average speeds intended will be in the 35-55mph range. What magneto would I look for, how to set it up for this use? Prefer something with good parts sources.
     

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  29. I believe the mag you want is called a. "Wico X" or something.

    One thing to note, alot of guys turn their car over, then unground the mag starting the car. You gotta figure out wiring if you want to hand crank it.
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  30. [​IMG]

    Made a little work on the “La Rona Roadster”. Trans has been installed, but still need sub rails for the body.
     
    Dustyp489, Old Dawg and winduptoy like this.

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