Never touched a sbc without gloves... but what if when you are set up with the puller under tension you hold a ball peen hammer against the center bolt's end then hit the ball peen with a big hammer? ... inertia...
Im just concerned about putting heat into the crank snout as theres a blower pulley hanging on the front of the balancer. I dont know if that heat would hurt the crank or not.
Are you talking about the long bolt that goes through the puller that you are turning to apply pressure ?
Having never tried it, but if it shrunk the pulley then let it sit until back to room temp, would that work like heat, except in an opposite fashion?
Yeh, the pointed one, usually a 1/2" or bigger shaft... we remove ball joints / tie-rod ends by loosening the nut, back it off 3-4 threads... Smacking the outside of the cup part of the arm it sits in, directly across from the steering arm... Got that tip from a Packard restorer... never used a pickle fork ... . as for heat, if you heat it red hot it bakes the carbon from the steel... it causes the stuck part to expand when hot then shrink when cool... you can re-peat in the same spot over again... when hot [expanded] it can break away from the crank... then when cool may come off... i "think" you can heat that pulley "almost" red and it not hurt the crank... i might wrap a sopping wet rag aroud the crank on each end to help keep the heat on the pulley and not penetrate the crank as much... you know how hard it is to get a bolt's treads red when inside a nut... the pulley may protect the crank from the most heat... i am not a metalurgist, they could tell you whether or not the heat will hurt...
Put your puller in the gear. Under tension Heat up the gear. Some times it slides right out easy. Sometimes you need to release the tension on the puller and tighten it up again to get it to move. Either way, not a ton of heat, nothing really to effect the crank shaft and hopefully crisis averted. or like what @squirrel said Pull the crank out and get a good puller behind it and give it a go.
A voodoo solution! If you have a small brazing tip for your torch try this. Heat the pulley evenly around the face of the pulley only to the point that candle wax will melt. Apply the candle wax where you can so that it will suck up between the shaft and the pulley itself. Let it cool for 30 seconds or so. Reapply the heat again, just to the pulley, only this time try to heat the pulleys perimeter half way between its face and the area that is seated and you will notice the wax disappear, apply more wax and heat again just a bit half way down the pulley around it’s perimeter until you notice the wax has disappeared once more. Attach you puller and apply some pressure, more than a little but not a whole lot. Reapply the heat again half way down the pulley around the perimeter while applying just a bit more pressure with your puller. Repeat if it still is not moving but I will bet that thing will fall off fairly easy after using this technique. Good luck.
From tables, and based on a tensile strength of 60,000 psi for steel bolt, those machine screws are good for 1450 lbs of tension. Times 4 screws, almost 6000 # of force.
I have had luck using a # 2 brazing or welding tip on my small torch. It will let you concentrate and limit the heat more to the area you want hot. I am thinking the puller would need to be in place and tensioned before heating. This may limit access with the heating tip. Another option would be to go to work on the pulley with a high speed burring bit on an end grinder. These bits will remove metal quickly, but must be used gingerly with caution. Also with this option use eye and hand protection. Burring bits make miniscule projectiles that will penetrate even tough callused hand skin and are a serious eye hazard. You probably are well aware of this fact, I just like to keep safety in focus. We have used high speed bits on industrial jobs to split gears and hubs etc to facilitate removal as well in my small shop.
Im thinking about taking 3 - 1/4 or 5/16 bolts and drilling them out and cut the 12/24's off and welding them inside the hole in the 5/16. it won't give me any more strength but it will allow me to use longer lengths and it will give me a hex head instead of a Phillips head with 3 washers . right now the 12/24's I have are only 3" and too short to use with the cone on the puller. thats part of the reason I stopped as I dont want to screw up the crank threads. I either have to find 4" long 12/24's , cut them off and weld them inside 1/4 or 5/16 or make some kind of homemade puller. what a PIA. the place that has the longer 12/24's is closed today. why a hardware store would be closed on Saturdays is beyond me. im also not too thrilled with the prospect of drilling the center out of 4 or 5 in long bolts on the drill press. that sounds like trouble in the making to me. I guess I'll have to buy some grade 2 bolts and drill them out by hand. also worried about what the heat from welding will do to the 12/24 threads. if only comp would have used a damn standard 1/4-20...... oh well
The max strength of the 12-24 bolts is only realized IF they are all torqued/loaded with the same amount of force. Therefore, I would make a disk that would bolt onto the gear (torque all bolts to same in/lb) and be large enough OD to get either puller legs on it, or have a 5/16 dia hole pattern to attach your puller to. That way you would evenly load the 12-24 while having something you could reef on. Would be good if you could also heat the gear while the puller is tight. Make the disk thick enough that it won't flex.
What size are the four threaded holes around the perimeter of the toothed pulley? I think that's where you need to be pulling instead of on the tapered hub. And use some heat. 400-450 degrees will make a world of difference, and it won't hurt the crank.
I'd extend them using some studs and extension nuts. Then I'd try the method I posted in my earlier post.
On the taper lock hubs. Typically, there would be two different sets of holes where the tapered hub meets the gear or pulley. Half of the holes are for tightening the assembly to the shaft. Then, for removal, you would remove the set screws and install them into the other holes which are used to release the bond between the taper and gear or pulley. Essentially, the tightening screws turn into jack screws. Not sure if your gear is setup this way but ALL taperlock hubs normally work this way.
I would put your puller back on and put some stress on it and then heat up gear with propane torch, shouldn’t take a lot of heat to expand gear, and slowly use puller to remove gear. Worked on bearings on 6” diameter shaft!
looking at the face of the pulley and the crank snout putting a little heat in that crank will be the least of your worries. it looks like your blower pulley/ balancer beat the hell out of things.
How is the pulley indexed on the crank? Is there a Key? (I've never done a timing set so forgive me if I have dumb questions.) I notice that the "line" in your photo bisects the 3 holes exactly like the tapered, 2-piece pulley in post #12, by Squirrel. Your photo does appear that your pulley is 1-piece but I just wonder why that line is there.(?) Your red arrow points to the line in your photo below...... If my comments above are all wet, if I were in your situation, I might be ready to drill a series of holes along one of the pulley groves and have at it with a big nut splitter or a cold chisel. If there is a key, I'd drill there all the way into the key and not mar the crank. In any case, I wish you good fortune and good luck with your task. ...
I've used this method successfully many times, although I just strike the end of the puller shaft directly. When having to use small bolts I use a 24 or 32 oz. hammer. The biggest thing is to make sure that the puller is square to the crank and pulley. Maybe some sort of spacer (stack of nuts?) around bolts between the puller and the pulley may help keep it square and take any potential side loads off the bolts. Then it is just tension, bop and repeat. Every now and then, especially if seems to stop moving, it pays to drive it back on a little to clear any collection of debris that may be collecting between the shaft and pulley. It can be a slow process. The last time I had to do it was a couple of semesters ago when a student drove a timing belt pulley on backwards. It used the metric equivalent of the bolts you are having to use. After it finally moved we were able to turn the center bolt of the puller about 1/2 to 3/4 quarters of a revolution after hitting it. ( sometimes only 1/4 revolution.)
If you have to get destructive, drilling between the top 2 bolts in this picture would make splitting the pulley a lot easier.
If you're doing away with the belt drive, take the bolts out of the cover, heat up the hub, and drive it off with a hammer using the cover! then stick it on the classifieds as "vintage"
this is basically how I have been getting rusted early Ford perch bolts out years. It works amazingly well.
It really sounds like you're not going to be using the belt drive setup any longer. Therefore, get yourself some 1/4" thick (or more) steel as wide as the "pulley". Weld a couple of "extended" nuts (like already posted here) on the outside of the pulley. Fab the plate with a hole in the center, and weld a nut with the same threads as your gear puller. Drill two more holes outward on that plate for bolts to thread into the extended nuts. I suppose you could weld two bolts to the pulley and use those instead of the extended nuts; use nuts to hold the plate on. Insert the gear puller shaft and twist away. Keep the whole affair as a reminder to not use one of these drives again. This will be a one time use puller assembly. Been a lot of suggestions here, and this one is mine. Good luck. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
The camshaft gear/hub looks like a taper. How did that come off? You'd think it would be the same type fit?
Why not make a plate that lays on the end of the snout, and has three holes that line up with the four outer/threaded holes in the gear? Put bolts through and tighten away in a cross pattern!
Can you get to the hub with the puller attached? If so with pressure on the hub get a hammer drill(cordless dewalt) with a hex head (flat tip ) and vibrate it on the hub. Air hammer might be need but try the dewalt first(less violent) Pete
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