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Technical Stopping surface rust in storage

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by spillaneswillys, Dec 13, 2020.

  1. mutant55
    Joined: Mar 11, 2012
    Posts: 231

    mutant55
    Member

    I’m with Flathead Dave, use Gibbs, I put that shit on everything! It’s just part of my process now, clean something, put Gibbs on it. Blast something, put Gibbs on it. Fresh machine work, put Gibbs on it... it’s not cheap, but it’s the best way to go.


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  2. Thanks for all of the replies. It looks like there are several options. I may be better off just renting a storage unit until I can make room.
     
    clem and Moriarity like this.
  3. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Thanks, ordered two cans. To be honest I'd like to spray my old motorcycle with it and wash it off after winter. It's inside but the shed gets damp.
     
  4. Mopar Tony
    Joined: Jun 11, 2019
    Posts: 563

    Mopar Tony
    Member

    So what is the process of removing Gibs oil when you are getting ready to epoxy everything? Do you just clean it with wax and grease remover and shoot over it?
     
  5. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,933

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you can't get indoor cover anywhere and outside is therefore the only option I'd suggest an outdoor car bubble. Will cost you probably upto $1,000 but the car will be safe and dry. Needs an electric hookup. Being bare metal I'd belt and braces with a dose of Gibbs. Gibbs works great when under cover but it doesn't last when exposed to the elements. I wouldn't rely on Gibbs and a tarp though. But Gibbs and one of those tent garages could be viable.

    Chris
     
  6. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,379

    31Apickup
    Member

    You can get those portable garage tents cheap, I used one for painting this summer, got it new for $130. Put a tarp on the ground under the car. It would be much better than a tarp directly on the vehicle. You’d still need to use something like Gibbs on the bare metal.


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  7. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,968

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Good question. No reason to remove it. You just paint over it.
    You can apply sealer and primer over it.
    But you can use a degreaser if you want.
     
    Mopar Tony likes this.
  8. Jimbo17
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,959

    Jimbo17
    Member

    The enemy of all kinds of metal is the air and what's in it!
    I think a good oil might work and I have even used wheel bearing grease on engine parts and that worked very well.

    I have used wheel bearing grease on weather vanes and all kinds of outdoor copper and brass lights for years and it coats them and keeps the air off them.

    I have pinstriping brushes that are over 20 years old and work like a charm because the only time they exposed to air is when I am using them. I keep them in a plastic container of mineral spirits and I lay the brushes down flat and make sure they are under the mineral spirits.

    Air and everything in it kills tools and brushes!

    Jimbo
     
  9. HSF
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 225

    HSF
    Member
    from Lodi CA

    Epoxy primer. Why cover your bare metal.in oil. As a painter, I'm leery of oiling metal that you are planning on painting. WD is a nightmare for painters, I can't believe that was suggested.
     
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  10. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    yup, never ever get wd 40 near anything you want to paint
     
  11. Paint_Rep
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 77

    Paint_Rep

    Two component Epoxy Primer, without question. You can always sand it off later. But it can sit covered in epoxy for a decade and not rust. Use Axalta 2540S, or if you don’t care about zinc and chromate (the really good corrosion resistant, but nasty chemicals) use Corlar 825S in Axalta’s Commercial line....


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  12. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,647

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Something that no one else has suggested. Boeshield T-9 Rust and Corrosion Inhibitor. Used widely in the aircraft industry to protect mothballed airplanes. It is a wax but there is NO SILICONE in it. I use it in my unheated shop on all my woodworking tools with machined cast iron surfaces. Use it on all my hand tools. No rust anywhere. Did I mention that it's really good stuff?
     
  13. Mopar Tony
    Joined: Jun 11, 2019
    Posts: 563

    Mopar Tony
    Member

    Fair enough, thank you for your reply. To me it is odd to have a oil you can spray over lol. I plan on epoxy primer my bare steel before I ever start body work so I wanted to check first.
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2020
    Flathead Dave likes this.
  14. Mr Last Minute
    Joined: Aug 27, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Mr Last Minute

    I’ve had a few patch panels arrive that have been coated in WD40/ CRC and it’s an absolutely bitch to get off and paint. Soaking it in metho is the only way I’ve found, however still not perfect.
     
  15. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,408

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Gibbs spray. I used it on bare steel, cleaned it with Prep-all. Sprayed 2K epoxy over it no issues.
    Personally I would spray epoxy if it’s gonna be outside, Gibbs is great stuff but outside under a tarp, I’d prime it.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  16. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,408

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Spraymax makes a 2K epoxy primer in a spray can, good stuff, no special equipment. My 2cts
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  17. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 984

    AmishMike
    Member

    I am also in Pennsylvania. Mix of good advice here. Get it as far off the ground as far as you can & tarp underneath prevent dampness. Cover the metal with something mentioned above. Build wood frame over car before tarp. Stake tarp out away from car so air can circulate under & over car otherwise u trap moisture on metal. Tough to prevent surface rust in Pa. Good luck
     
  18. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,593

    birdman1
    Member

    Self etching primer,
     
  19. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Epoxy prime it or youll be in pain either way
     
  20. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    I just prime everything.
    If I worked hard to get rid of the rust, and get it stripped. I want it bathed in epoxy as soon as possible. Even if I need to take some off for metal work, or spot prime metalwork (brushing properly mixed epoxy on weld seams works just fine)

    The "bare metal in-process build" didnt exist a few years ago, internet and TV shows seems to have boosted its popularity. Not criticizing anyone, just seems like a lot of extra work.

    Any corrosion from leaving metal unprotected, or any product that would effect metal to primer adhesion is a no-go for me.
     

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