Hey guys, anybody using one of the remote brake boosters? I have an old Studebaker truck with an under-floor master cyl. The fill cap is thru a hole in the floorboard, and any further back would be a pain and require a remote reservoir. I have read through the forums, and see recommendations for the VH44 remote booster. My only problem is that these all come from overseas, and fit Australian or Japanese vehicles. I don't see any offerings from the normal stateside sources. They still work ok on US vehicles? I assume I need to fab up brake lines that are SAE on one end, and Metric on the other to splice this thing in?
VH44 for drums, VH40 for disc brakes. VH40 output is 1470 PSI. The cars these universal fit boosters are listed for are all pre metric, so I doubt there would be any thread issues. But if there are, I can't imagine it would be any more than using metric tube nuts on the booster ends. https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/...MI0dia3OX27QIVwRErCh26YgjFEAQYASABEgL7h_D_BwE
Found this also: The VH44 has FIFTEEN models, with slave cylinder bore diameters ranging from .625" .. to .750" .. to .875". The most common bore size in the VH44 is .750". These variations, along with booster size variations (length of stroke, and diameter of booster diaphragm) means that the output pressure of the VH40/VH44 models can vary from 820 psi to 1470 psi. Along with these pressure figures there are sizeable variations in the amount of brake fluid displaced. Thus, you have to match your VH model of booster to your braking system. The VH40 produces the highest pressure, but the VH44 produces the biggest volume of fluid displacement.
Ok, How do you match the booster? Trial and error? I have a 1" master, and 1-1/16 wheel cylinders. (4 wheel drum system). Brakes work fine but require some leg and I want it a bit easier than it is. It would seem that a 1" master and a .75 slave would give the least advantage, and smaller bore slaves provide greater advantage. I also have issue with pedal travel. The stock setup has the pedal very high off the floor. I can adjust the master cylinder pushrod to get the pedal closer to the floor but then it's nearly all the way down when the brakes actuate. Thinking I might have to change the brake lever length and loose some mechanical advantage to gain piston throw with less pedal travel, so a booster might bring me back in line with leg effort required. Using a larger bore master cyl might be a similar solution. Currently, I can dial in the pushrod length and get the pedal where I want it, except the master cylinder isn't allowed to fully retract in that configuration.
I would get in touch with MP Brakes they do a remote booster. Unless there are good reports about VH's then I would steer clear of them as they a Chinese made.
You don't mention what model you are working on, but I would contact Jim Turner http://www.turnerbrake.com . He is the Studebaker brake guru and has conversions of all types for most Studebaker applications.
On my Stude pickup I simply took an aluminum junkyard Mopar dual master cyl, cut the mounting ears off,put it in a tight "box" made from a 11 inch piece of 2 by 2-1/2 rectangular tubing with a few holes cut out for fitting access etc, and then bolted the box to the frame using the Stock Stude bolts in the stock location. That trapped the mc inside a tight fitting box that kept the mc tightly in place with no chance of any bracket probs, or any angles or offsets, or added linkages, etc etc I took a VW Beetle remote reservoir bottle and tubing, and hooked it to the grommets in the top of the Mopar master cyl, and threw away the mopar plastic bottle. NO MORE HOLE IN THE FLOOR. NO MORE PEELING UP THE CARPET. That was late 1980s. Since then I bought a "new " rebuilt parts store fresh mc, and put an aluminum mid-50s Cadillac reservoir under the hood to replace the plastic VW Beetle bottle. Still works great today with my home made Chrysler super size 4 wheel disc brakes without a booster. For years I wanted to add a booster, but still do not feel any rush to do so Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
X38 Just read your link I see that them ones are Australian made but if you check out some places you will see that some are Chinese made as well.
I have a mp unit under the floor on my 40 ford you might want to look at their site to see if there is an assembly for your studebaker. The access hole is still in front of the drivers seat but larger to open the master cylinder.
Well, I had never even heard of a remote booster until I read another post about someone cussing out the "universal booster and master cyl" he had bought. The reply from someone was to keep the factory master, and add a remote booster. He had recommended the VH booster, so I looked into it. The VH unit sells for $75 - $150, depending on supplier. The MP unit is $500. Big difference. I haven't started to do anything yet, just looking into the future. It's normal with rodding that to change ONE thing, you have to make 8 other changes to make it work.
PBR brake boosters were originally made by a Australian Company called Paton Brake Replacement a company that stopped trading in 2017. Worth looking up the history of the company.
A lot of early Australian and British cars were fitted with remote boosters here, so there are still a few original ones available at swap meets, etc. Rebuild kits are available, and these units are used in many re-builds, rods, etc. I would be surprised if there wasn't a U.S. made equivalent that would have been fitted to 50's/60's cars with manual braking systems.
The VH unit sells for $75 - $150, depending on supplier. The MP unit is $500. Big difference. I'd ponder about that for awhile, why do you think that is? Greed or quality
I was looking at selling those remote boosters but the buy-in cost was pretty high compared to the demand. Master power brakes sells them. They are made by Iruna Brakes in Spain. If you are looking for a remote reservoir for your brake master I sell those. highway101ind.com You just need to know the size of the original master cylinder cap and what size reservoir you want. If you are running a Corvette dual master cylinder can get a remote cover for that from Kugel Komponets for I think about $40 and I have dual reservoirs as well.
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