does anyone know how thick the toe board wood is on a ‘32 ford? Also, was this solid core planks of wood or plywood?
One of my fellow car club members used marine plywood, varnished it and let it show, no mats. Used 1/2 inch.
I also used 5/8 inch in my 1940 Ford. Worked fine. I applied 5 coats of acrylic enamel with hardener to make it scuff resistant. Tapered the bottom edges to make it fit nicely. MSD board would work nicely too. Starboard (used in boats) would be the best if the price is not to bad. It won't split, crack, shred and cuts like butter. Available in black and white. Just Google Starboard.
all passenger cars are the same style/shape except 3W coupe. Very early cars used solid hardwoods dovetailed at ends, most cars used 11/16" 5 ply plywood . From David Rehor's book "The 1932 Ford book" GET IT. Best money you will ever spend.
Most plywood you buy now is crap. I would step up to cabinet grade or Baltic. More $$ but much more durable and looks better.
My roadster's obviously not a Deuce, but I used 1/2" Baltic Birch, 9 ply void free plywood I used glass sealing rubber around the edges, and bent some stainless for under the joint. After sealing I used Dynamat and Dynaliner under the carpet. The spacer around the shifter is to keep the shift boot from smashing the carpet.
I heard a claim that Henry Ford required certain suppliers to ship parts in crates built to his specifications. The empty crates were taken apart and used as floorboards for Model T's. Ford's specs required crate material sized exactly to fit. This was related to me by my late father-in-law. I believe he said he read it somewhere. If this was ever done, I doubt it continued to 1932. Sounds like something done early on before the sheer number number of cars they were building made it impractical. May be a bit OT but interesting anecdote.
Solid Mahogany resists getting water logged and is widely used in building boats. Another wood that I would suggest is Cypress. It resisters water and bugs. (Check out Old Chevrolet Owners to see what termites do to cars with wooden inner structures.)Even though plywood has its virtues, my problem with using it is that it is made up of sections of wood that have been shaved off and laminated with glue. Heat and moisture attack both the glue and the thin layers of wood. No matter what wood you choose, be sure and either paint it well, or apply coats of Spar Varnish and sand between coats for a lustrous finish. Most of prefer to add various layers of insulation against heat and noise. Keep in mind that the best costs a little more when you install it the first time. The second time you replace it is when you really pay for the cheap stuff.
I used 3/4 Crezon plywood that is often used for outdoor signs for a casting deck in a 17 boat and it has stood up really well. It is close to marine plywood in all weather durability. The plywood with a good coat of paint would last and be okay if it is going to be covered. One of our local lumber yards used to stock it but they don't anymore. My son needed a sheet for a sign. They accidentally brought in 2 sheets so I bought the second as project wood.
I believe Roy Naceiwicz (sp?) used to make them. Since his passing Mike Driscoll has taken over, 3rd Gen Auto. FWIW Paul in CT
Plywood was in its infancy in the early 20th century. I have never written a book about it (or even read one) but in my experience I have seen it with tongue and groove and plywood. I have a tendency to use 5/8 or 3/4 plywood. Whatever I have at the time. But I am not a restorer either.
You could use marine grade plywood. Boat manufactures use it for floors. Last sheet I purchased it was $100.00 for a 3/4" x 4'x 8' sheet and that was four years ago. I'm sure it's more now. You would have to go to a full service lumber yard not Home Depot or Lowes. I purchased a set from Roy Naceiwicz and let me tell you there's a lot of cuts and bevels to make it correct. It was well worth the money then to do it myself.
worked for GE for 24 years... had a wood worker there... he would save all the pallets that we got from overseas... many were made from really nice wood's scraps... mahogany etc.
1/2” I consider too light , 3/4 seems to fit the step in the sub rails nicely and the step at the fire wall . When your passenger want to stretch out and push on the floor there is no flexing . We generally use old oak bed head boards ,or wardrobes . Head boards are easy and cheap to find.
Plywood dates from the 1860s. Different adhesives have been used between the plies: animal-hide glue, casein glue, urea-formaldehyde, and phenol-formaldehyde were all in use in 1932. I'd expect that Ford floorboards would have been phenol-formaldehyde, as urea-formaldehyde was really only suitable for interior work (for which it remains the norm,) and casein glue was mainly used for in-situ-formed shaped laminations due to its ease of use despite its susceptibility to bacterial attack. Much more durable resorcinol-formaldehyde was only introduced in 1943.
We used 3/4" plywood. Sealed it and several coats of paint. Has been in the car for years. Still looked good last time checked it.
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