Hot Rods Grounding battery to header bolt

Couldn't have said it better myself

 

Used to have some issues with slow starter spin until I did just that. There was definitely a noticeable difference for the better. Especially when the engine was hot.

 

Cylinder head stud bolts are common on later model GMs and Fords, I'm guessing Mopar used them too.

As you can see, it has the functionality of a normal bolt and the advantage of being able to attach another component or used as a grounding/bonding point.

I would never suggest using the cylinder head bolt itself as a ground/bond attachment point.

 

In addition to the things already mentioned,since you have headers one of the solenoid heat shields may help.Does your engine have a big cam or some other tuning issue that requires excessive turns on the idle speed adjustment screw?If so this can also cause the starter to labor on hot start,I know it sounds counterproductive but in this case more initial timing can allow the idle adjustment screw to backed off to near minimum and allow quicker and easier starts.If the additional initial timing causes pinging or detonation problems then the mechanical advance will need to be recurved to bring the total back down or vacuum advance will have to be limited.

 

Ok! Great! We are on the same page now!








Bones

 

In reply to earlier mention, the (+) side has two or three V-drop events, on the way back-to-earth. (-) So 0.3V does the job.

 

I always thought you used dielectric grease on the "outside" of an otherwise clean and dry connector, to keep moisture and air from oxidizing it. I honestly haven't paid a lot attention to it, but it sounds like it's good advice for parts in harsh environments.

I've never felt the need for it on my cars, but it would be interesting to hear other peoples take on the subject.

 

While we are on the subject of bad connections, guys do yourself a favor and aquire a can of this stuff! My friend turned me on to this stuff! He called it his miracle oil! He worked on Cat engines on those off shore large fishing boats in the ocean, all over the world! So he was very familiar with corrosion and poor connections! He gave me this 1/2 can and it doesn’t take much but gives excellent results!






Bones

 

Yup. It helps prevent moisture intrusion and aids existing insulation.

Even in dry climates you can still have corrosion or simply dirt intrusion into connectors. As well as making connectors much easier to disconnect. I'm sure everyone on this board had tried to pull plug wires off a set of ungreased boots. Usually the boot loses badly.

Have an old can that is illegible now, half beaten up got it off an old operating engineer.
'Just use a drop, it'll bust anything free.'
It makes Kroil look like WD40.

 

I had a hot start problem with my 54 Chevy with 350 sbc. Did everything I could think of, including new rebuilt starter. Still had problems. Finally, a mechanic suggested changing to the newer design mini starter motor. Problem solved. Apparently, when the old design starter gets hot, due to thermal expansion, something binds up. Newer design doesn't have that problem. YMMV.

 

Thanks for the all responses. Yeah, I've gone through the list. Remote solenoid, mini starter, heat shield, heavier battery cables, played with timing, rebuilt the carb (Edelbrock 1406). It's improved a lot -- and the carb was leaking gas into the intake. You have to remember, this car had been sitting for a while and they were running it without a fuel filter (also looped the trans lines), so I looked at lot of this as preventative maintenance. But I think what's been recommended here is going to be my go to. Best if all, it won't cost anything. Simply removing the ground to a bell housing bolt. I might add an Edelbrock heat insulator gasket later on and double check the fuel pressure (mechanical pump -- but I know those can vary in pressure). But again checking for voltage on startup should help out a lot. I'll throw it on the list of stuff to do when my friend I thrash on it -- replacing the windshield and tailgate cables -- in January.

Thanks again for the recommendations.

 

Wait. Are you having trouble getting the starter to turn the engine over or having trouble refiring the engine after it sits? If the starter is turning the engine over, ground is not your problem. If you don't have a heat insulator between the carb and the manifold, you will definitely have problems refiring after it sits. Also, you will have trouble if your fuel line is too close to the exhaust manifold. Today's gas boils at a very low point and will vaporize right out of the bowl in a few minutes. Then you have to turn the engine over and over to pump the bowl back full before it will retire. You did not explain your problem clearly.

 

I ground the frame, engine and dashboard. If you ever had a ground fault you would understand why.

 

3 grounds is best, engine bell housing or intake manifold to firewall, Firewall to frame, Trans tail shaft to frame', wide woven ground straps are best.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This.
I agree. I usually mount these and run my grounds to these type of terminals.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...mIin7sSUYeeJoxyXXRCnx6a8THOZrensaAjXmEALw_wcB

 

I just refinished wiring my '40 ford with a Ron Francis wiring kit and they specifically tell you to run a 1 GA. negative ground wire directly from the Battery to the ground near the starter bolt and NOT run the ground to the frame " ...YOU MAY HAVE USED THE PROCEEDURE OF RUNNING THE GROUND TO THE FRAME IN THE PAST BUT WE (RF) DOES NOT MWORK AS WELL AS YOU MAY WANT IT TO"
Ron Francis have sold tons of wiring kits so I go with their instructions... just my 2 cents