Stance, front axle drop, wheels, 8" rear axle, wheels, juice brakes, of course with 4cyl, and auto. Kool looking. Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Check out the Ford 2.3 eco boost 4 banger crate motor at 320 hp. Don't rekon that'll push that rascal down the super slab? Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Burning down the highway at or well above posted speeds is fun but isn't everything. There is a lot to be said for cruising along at a more comfortable speed on more interesting roads and enjoying the hell out of yourself. On the other hand I have a 1600 CC 130 hp banger with a strong 5 speed to go behind it sitting out here that would run down the road at 80+ all day long and not break a sweat and give you 25 or better mpg but it would be off topic as hell even though it is 28 years old. I could put four side drafts or injectors on it though. As far as getting one or building one that takes starting with a plan and sticking to the plan.
Let's read between the lines here. I think 2OLD2FAST might have been refering to the original 4 cylinder engine. Still, way cool.
Not sure what bangers you been hangin round...?! I used to run my flathead T at 80-85 when I was running 3:1 gears in the rear. Kept breaking gears so dropped down to 3.63:1 and now I cruise at a much safer 65-70. I will admit that I don’t want to maintain those speeds for more than an hour or two... but that’s because of the car, not the motor. I would much rather spend my day cruising the back roads at 55-60, and jump on the highway occasionally to burn out the carbon A model A or B motor will do much better for much longer with much less effort to build than a T. And there is much more speed equipment available for the A and B motors as well.
I have been around numerous , naturally aspirated , 4 cyl vehicles in the last 50 years to understand that at highway speeds , they're working hard , in a vehicle with the aerodynamics of a concrete block , in a slight headwind or on an interstate grade , they struggle mightily to maintain speed .
I find this funny, only because I think most A's ride like shit! Last time I checked i can drive my A on the freeway.
T rear spring would get you close to that rear position along with a reverse eye front and dropped axle. 4.50 tires in the front and 6.50s in the rear look to be what this car is sporting. It won't feel too bad and get the steering, bones, and alignment right and it will drive decent, too.
Run a 5speed stick behind a 4 cyl. and 3:73 - 4:11 rear gears. A 153 Chevy with a good carb,and headers should do fine on most highways.
Now that's what I was looking for. Thanks. Wheels and brakes would be helpful. Going to wherever "there" is, is about the friendship, scenery and yum for the tum. Super slab only for going home to your bed to rest the back. Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wheels 16" 35 Ford wires Brakes, juice brakes, likely. 1940 and up spindles, backing plates and drums.
Thanks. Any such like 15 fronts, 16 rears, wide fives??? I think that could be kool too. I figured a maverick/8" rear, buggie spring, reversed eyes, good shocks.????? Front spring reversed eye, maybe 2-3" dropped axle, good shocks.???? Thoughts? Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not sure how these fit the vision/questions of the '29 coupe? Help? Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well... you asked about stance and a 4 banger among other things. Discussion about 4 bangers ensued. One guy posted a pic of the instruments in what must be a 4 cylinder car doing almost 80. Another member observed that the other gauges are reading almost zero and brought that to our attention. I'm surprised there hasn't been more comment about 4 cylinders and autos. This is a forum, not a government survey.
That coupe at the top has 16" '35 Ford wires with probably 4.50 or 5.00 tires. The rears are 18" '32 Ford wires with probably 7.00 tires. They are bias ply and there are no radial alternatives that will give those same proportions. Is say the front axle has a deep drop, the spring has reversed eyes, and it's probably been flattened a little too. The rear of the frame might have a little Z, and the spring is probably a T or maybe a flattened A. Also, it would take a thick special spacer to fit the stock Ford wheel to an 8" Ford rearend.